Horn button question - Replacement Instructions

[tweetdriver63]

I found these for sale.



They say they are for 90-92 Chevrolet Camaro and Pontiac Firebird. Since the 90-92 Firebird has exactly the same steering wheel in it as the Fed Elan, I'm assuming these are good for us too. I haven't seen the buttons inside my wheel, so I was hoping someone could confirm it for me after seeing the picture.

Scroll down the thread for instructions.

[klassykappa]

Looks good to me. Mine were gray and broke but I think those will work. Take a look at the pix in my post. They are not from my elan but I think they are similar enough to work. Sorry to hear about the speed bump. You know how country roads are in the south. Luckily you didn't hit a deer!

[tigerdog]

Where did you find these?

[tweetdriver63]

Where did you find these?

ebay. I was just being careful. I figured if I posted a link to the auction, some unscrupulous lurker might jump on it, and I'd lose out.

Anyway, I found it by searching for "GM horn button." I'm at work, so I can't go check on more availability right now, as my work computer filters out ebay.

[GeoffSmith]

You mistrusting bar steward! We have an unwritten code of conduct on LEC when people are bidding on eBay and if you say you're bidding, people will usually steer clear of it.

Here's the link for everyone else - it's $21.89............ B.I.N. ............... but only 10 available.

[tweetdriver63]

You mistrusting bar steward! We have an unwritten code of conduct on LEC when people are bidding on eBay and if you say you're bidding, people will usually steer clear of it.

Here's the link for everyone else - it's $21.89............ B.I.N. ............... but only 10 available.

In hindsight, there probably wouldn't have been any casual lurkers on that thread, but you never know. Hey, we yanks are a kill or be killed lot sometimes.

I know none of the normal crowd here would jump me on it, but since the one I found wasn't a multi-item listing, I didn't want to take any chances. Bad form on my part I suppose.

Even you said "usually," and I figure there may be people about who haven't read all the unwritten rules, yet.

[tweetdriver63]

Instructions for replacing the buttons:

First, the GM part number is 17989608, if you want to go that route buying the new ones. I didn't check on a price through a dealer.

Instructions for removing the airbag are linked above under "Upgrades," then "Changing Steering Wheel." Those instructions are very brief because there's very little to it. The airbag is held on from behind by four torx bolts. You don't have to take of the column shroud or anything, just turn the wheel for easier access. The torx bolts are held in place by little keepers on the inside of the wheel, so they don't come out when you loosen them, they sort of push the airbag out instead. You can use the upgrade link to see a picture of the wheel after the airbag is removed. Disconnect the black earth wire, another (smaller) torx srew, then disconnect the +ive. You'll have to splice the +ive connector from the old buttons onto the new ones, because the Elan apparently didn't have the standard GM connector. The old buttons just pull straight out, and the new ones snap in in their place. Reconnect the wires and you're in business.

If your horn still doesn't work when you push the buttons, check the 15A horn fuse first, then the 3A Battery fuse (A12). My car had a blown Battery fuse, as well as trashed horn buttons.

I recommend testing the horn before you put the airbag back on. When you're ready, just set the airbag in place and tighten the torx bolts. You'll see the airbag being pulled back into position as you tighten them. I also put a washer on each of the lower torx bolts, to act as spacers so the airbag would sit flush on those lower spokes.

[Ekapol]

The picture looks good. That should be identical to what we have in our OEM steering wheel. Mine broke a while back too. Then I was on the quest for the switches that should be better than the OEM parts.

HOW I REPLACED THE SWITCH

[Brit-Car-Nut]

For those facing the reality that GM no longer offers either the original horn switch/button/plunger OR the replacement kit, I have been working on replacement horn plungers that have been re-engineered and reinforced to prevent the contact area from cracking as they did originally but will require salvaging the brass contactor from the old plungers to be functional. Here is a picture of the replacement part.

Horn Plunger.jpg

Right now, I have made a crude but functional heat tool that will heat fuse the contactor on the new plunger but making new contactors has been difficult to accomplish since the tooling has been quoted in the thousands of dollars. Apparently square holes cost a lot of money...

If you want a new plunger, you will need to send me your old plunger(s) and I will heat stake the original contactor to a new plunger. The price is $15.00 per plunger (since I am only getting them made 4 pieces at a time) plus postage. Priority Mail is the fastest shipping method in the US and is $5.95 for the small flat-rate box. Canadian buyers will need to ask for a shipping quote since the price will be based on distance.

This only applies to North American M100s since they use a different steering system due to SIR requirements from the govenment.

Suggestions / comments are always welcome.

Edited to correct the shipping price to $5.95 not the $5.25 I posted.

[tigerdog]

You won't get rich from LEC but I bet there are a ton of Fiero and Firebird owners who would love to get their hands on these. BTW, I need this (badly) but don't have any idea when I can get around to dismantling and sending plungers. Thanks, John, for taking this on.

[Brit-Car-Nut]

Doug: Certainly not trying to get rich or even turn a huge profit. I am on my third revision of the plastic part since it has been an experiment to see where I could increase the plastic ribbing and not foul anything. My friend and I have machined a die that makes the proper "wing" shape and gets me to a round hole in the brass but I am having trouble finding a broach that will cut the brass to a square without bending it up. The square hole is what keeps the contactor in the correct position - it is like an indexing notch. I will get back into the project when the weather warms up a bit.

Cheers.