Radiator air bleed screw

[jcab]

I just tried to bleed any air from the radiator, which I have done previously, but this time the top of the bleed screw just sheared off the rest of the fitting. I have managed to uncrew the rest of the bleed screw that was not at at all tight and assume the top must have been weaken over the years.

Of course I now need a new bleed screw and on the manuals it shows this as part of the complete radiator, not separate. Does anyone know where these can be bought separately? I was going to try Serck Marsden, now Serck Intertruck, but any other suggestions welcome.

[M100 TWO]

I believe from a previous post the thread is a standard metric thread as a temporary measure use a short bolt threaded to the head with an appropriate washer
diff

[davidh]

The bleedscrew is available as a separate item and I got mine from SJ from stock.

David

[jcab]

Thanks David,

I looked at the Lotus parts and didn't realise it could be bought as a separate item, so I will get one from SJ. As a temporary fix, I have used a stainless M12 short bolt.

[Sy V]

Here are the details (+VAT of course):

DRAIN AND BLEED SCREW A100K0111S EACH 8.69

[John_W]

All,
I have a problem with my radiator bleed screw and need some help/info from those who might have been down this road before (eg those on this thread and also Geoff and PaulWatkins on this other thread .

I had a water leak suddenly appearing a week ago, so have just investigated and found it to be due to the bleed screw under the LHS headlight. The head has sheared off, and the little bleed hole in the middle pees coolant out when the system gets pressurised. The apparent reason for the failure is that the access hole in the body work is not perfectly aligned, and the bleed screw head touches (touched) it. Over many miles of vibration and body flexing, I guess the head has just had enough of being shoved sideways by the bodywork and broken off.

I managed to unscrew the body of the bleed screw (more of a bolt actually) but I can't get the sodding thing out. Now, nobody else has mentioned a problem getting this out, so what's the trick?

It is completely unscrewed, and there is a non-threaded part visible below the threads. It moves up and down for the length of this non-threaded part (about 1/8") but will not come out. Is there a lip or bulge on the screw? I've tried levering it out with a small screwdriver, but it won't come. How much force can I apply before I end up with bits of broken black plastic in my cooling system?

Help this evening would be nice, or I drive the Yaris to work tomorrow.

John

[M100 TWO]

john there is more thread on the end so unscrew and it will come out pull and turn
diff

[paulwatkins]

Thats exactly the same as what happened to mine John.

Mine was as mentioned above, with another threaded section at the end of the bleed screw.

However, the new one I just installed was slightly different (but may be the same as yours) at the end of the bleed screw are two outward pointing barbs. This type just needs to pulled past the position where it catches.

I had the same issues with the misalignment, so drilled a larger hole under the light pod.

Good luck

[John_W]

Gosh,
What great service!

Within the hour, two replies on the forum and an email from Geoff. Thanks, all. I've now got the thing out.

As Paul & John said, it had an additional threaded portion at the bottom. Geoff's picture shows the more modern version which has two spring lugs.

The only problem is that I don't have a spare bolt as big as that in my collection, so I'm going to have to get one tomorrow if I can, and send for a replacement from SJ. As you suggest, Paul, I'm going to enlarge the access hole to ensure it doesn't happen again.

Thanks to all of you for helping.

John

[dapinky]

I replaced mine with a stainless steel setscrew (fully threaded bolt) with a big head and a rubber 'O' ring.

It is a standard (freely available) thread, and the only modification needed was to cut a groove down one side to allow it to bleed air out when loosened.

I can't remember what the thread is, but it's on an old post somewhere.

[muley]

I replaced mine with a stainless steel setscrew (fully threaded bolt) with a big head and a rubber 'O' ring.

It is a standard (freely available) thread, and the only modification needed was to cut a groove down one side to allow it to bleed air out when loosened.

I can't remember what the thread is, but it's on an old post somewhere.

It's this one - about 9 posts back

Jim

[dapinky]

It's this one - about 9 posts back

Jim

I was actually thinking of this one......

i knew it was M12, but they do 3 different thread pitches in M12, and thought i had published the one i used.....

....still can't find it, but if you take the plastic bit into the shop, they'll match it.

[max and andy]

Would bleeding the radiator improve the heater temperature? Do you have to bleed after the winter? Andy

[Paul.P]

Would bleeding the radiator improve the heater temperature? Do you have to bleed after the winter? Andy

Doubt it Andy, but you could try, most people notice better heating after fitting new thermostat & heater valve, the heater valve just having been bought in Geoffsmiths group buy ( did you get one ? ).

[GeoffSmith]

M12 x 1.5mm

[John_W]

Eh? What was that Geoff?

Anyway, thanks to all. As I didn't have the right size bolt available (M12 x 1.5 mm rings a bell for some reason) and I didn't want to have to drive the Yaris to work in this great sunshine, I've just fixed the broken bit the Aberdeen way with a stainless steel screw and Araldite.


It worked fine and should last. I used a dremel thing to enlarge the access hole to avoid any recurrence. Boy those things make holes in fibreglass quick.

Now good to go and £8.69+VAT left to spend on beer.

John

[dapinky]

John,

Officially Araldite is good for 55 deg C, but others have used it sucessfully for a temporary fix (my idea of temporary means intending to last 2 weeks, but invariably left for many years).

At least you're sorted!

To avoid Lotus type prices, have you got a branch of Serck Marston near you? I expect the plugs are a generic item for lots of radiators.

[muley]

John,

Officially Araldite is good for 55 deg C, but others have used it sucessfully for a temporary fix (my idea of temporary means intending to last 2 weeks, but invariably left for many years).

At least you're sorted!

To avoid Lotus type prices, have you got a branch of Serck Marston near you? I expect the plugs are a generic item for lots of radiators.

I bodged the (stripped) drain screw on an Elan rad with araldite without a problem for many thousands of miles - some in searing heat ...

Jim

[John_W]

Dave,
Good point about the temperature tolerance. I'll get a new one ordered.
It should be OK for a while, though, as I used the standard (non-rapid) version which can go up to 250ºF, and a stainless self-tapper to provide the strength.

The industry we have in Aberdeen tends to deal with big thick heavy bits of metal or fancy metallurgy and electronics rather than automotive stuff, so I'll probably end up just 'phoning SJ.

Muley,
Sounds like a craftsman job rather than a bodge.

John

[dapinky]

Araldite will probably do you if the tollearance is that high!

Serck Marston now trade as Serck Intertruck(I live in the past!), and they have branches all over the place.