GT2560R Upgrade

[lotusgirlmarie]

Ummmmm. No chip, mo stand alone ECU. Just a Greddy Profec B spec2 EBC. It allows for fine tuning the boost curve.

[CRAMBURY RS]

wish i could do the same. AFC plus 3bar has proven fatal in most cases on the GM applications. i'll stick to the rich AF stock ECU and lean it out with the Apexi just a tad. that way, it becomes tuning and not total signal modification of the MAP voltage. like i said, i can live without the extra 3psi the turbo is capable of.

i'm pleased to see this thread get some attention

[nissias]

i am wondering if there is a stroker kit to be used with an upgraded turbo
anyone have any ideas?
i did find something once from import performanced parts but i don't know if it's an upgrade or a replacement of stock parts
www.importperformanceparts.net/imports/pek-isuzu.html
did anyone find an upgraded crackshaft and camshaft too?

[CRAMBURY RS]

you can get cams from a member at www.isuzone.org called seattleseir, or something like that. he has a variety of cam grinds to choose from, from mild to wild drag. as far as crank, if i recall the bottom end is good for around 400hp (crank, rods). if you want a stroker engine consider the 4XF1 engine that is 1800cc.

[CRAMBURY RS]

because someone had asked, i have added the specs of the studs used to bolt the turbo to the adapter plate: (this is off the top of my head)

the ARP stud if i recall is a 5/16x18 into the adapter and 5/16x24 for the nut (SAE threads). the length is about 1.700" or just near that (1/2" into the adapter course thread, 1/2" for the turbo flange and 1/2" fine thread for the nut and the 3/16-1/4" of smooth shank dividing the threads).

i will also edit the first post with this info.

[MattDon]

typical i manage to loose one of those things, thanks for sorting it out.

ok so ive got the kit and a turbo sat here and im just trying to workout what goes where, this maybe easier with picks which i might add later, but im confussed over which bolts go where and where the oil lines go, i think ive worked out the 2 nice shiney ones but im not 100% on the third which has two bolt holes either side, oh and where are the 3 copper washers supposed to go?

just need to get a manifold off and i can get the ball rolling with this.... also convering to closed loop at the same time.

[lotusgirlmarie]

The copper washers(4) go to the water inlet and outlet on the main turbo housing. The small hose is the oil line and goes in the top of the turbo. All of the lined must be installed after the turbo is indexed. This means the turbo must be mounted with all of the housing bolts loose to allow it to rotate to allow you to set the turbo up so you can get access to all of the ports.

[CRAMBURY RS]

The copper washers(4) go to the water inlet and outlet on the main turbo housing. The small hose is the oil line and goes in the top of the turbo. All of the lined must be installed after the turbo is indexed. This means the turbo must be mounted with all of the housing bolts loose to allow it to rotate to allow you to set the turbo up so you can get access to all of the ports.

that reminds me...i ran the water line from the front of the turbo (side facing the radiator) to the thermostat housing and the rear water line to the pipe that bends around the cylinder head. did you do this any different? i figured because of the clocking of the turbo that i would feed from the top and drain down.

[lotusgirlmarie]

correct

[MattDon]

ah found the fourth copper washer, im assuming they go one washer each side of the banjo bolts. could someone cofirm which bolts are used for what. also when you say index the turbo, do you mean unbolt it twist it around and bolt it back together. did i mention i had alot of silly questions.... the thread in the outlet flange on the side is for.... and lastly (for now) the thread in the downpipe is for a bung or O2 sensor.... correct?

[RichardK]

Well done Matt, if you hadn't have asked about the bolts I would have had to!!!

[lotusgirlmarie]

Thank you for piston a pic and numbering it. This will help alot.

1 is for the heat sheild. It goes through the HS mounting bracket, the downpipe, the gasket and into the turbo

4 is the stud that goes directly under 1. The spacing was really tight and this is the best solution

3 are the last of the DP bolts

2 have split duty. 2 go to the turbo compressor inlet and the other two go to the turbo oil drain outlet.

5 are for the turbo compressor outlet to be bolted to the turbo. The outlet will also only fit in the car one way. You will also need to reuse the IHI wastegate actuator fitting. This would be the one with the two vacuum hose barbs on it. Also reused is the IHI oil drain tube. I did supply a new gasket for this.

I did my best to index the turbos as close to where they need to be. They still will need to be Tweeked alittle. Also this is all easier done by removing the wastegate, loosening but not removing all of the housing bolts, installing the compressor outlet and associated vacuum fitting and putting it all on the engine. You will then see what I mean by a tight fit. Test all of the lines for positioning and after a satisfactory position is found tighten what housing bolts you can get to, remove the lines and then the turbo and tighten all of the bolts. From there it's pretty straight foreward. It's just reinstall. Turbo first. Then water lines. Oil lines to follow, then wastegate. BTW on the wastegate do not loose the little spring clip on the flappervalve arm they're a pain to deal with and find. Next would be the turbo compressor outlet hose then the stud for the exhaust DP, then the DP itself follew by all associated bolts and finally the heatsheild. The turbo compressor inlet and pipe. Admire your work, top up the fluids and enjoy.

[RichardK]

Many thanks Marie...I am unworthy!....Picture and instrutions are cut, pasted and printed in PDF. Now where's my laminator!

RIchard

[MattDon]

thankyou marie that just about clears it up. one last question, ive seen 12 psi wastegates mentioned, i did enquire about one when i ordered my turbo but they quoted something reduculous, when does it become nesisary to have one and would it be retro fittable? cheers

[lotusgirlmarie]

Easily retrofittable. The other advantage is it's far easier to fit as the actuator arm is repositionable. It becomes very helpfull on applicatons over 1 BAR as it can hold the pressure better than the 6PSI actuator can.

[CRAMBURY RS]

Many thanks Marie...I am unworthy!....Picture and instrutions are cut, pasted and printed in PDF. Now where's my laminator!

RIchard

how about your scanner! post some pics

BTW, thanks LGM for that downpipe. i noticed the density of the material is a lot heavier than the SS polished pipe i had originally purchased to make it. i did send out you item yesterday, should be there this week. i have screwed the downpipe elbow to a 1" MDF board to ensure it doesn't warp during welding. i hope to seal it up tonight. pics to come soon.

as far as the water lines go, i HIGHLY advise having the lower/rear one already tightened when reinstalling with the hose end pointing where you need it. if you think your engine bay is limited in engine space, wait until you get done with this!!!

[RichardK]

Rafael,

Actually haven't started the upgrade yet....just getting all the info together - big raid on your photobucket site (THANKS!) and getting all the tools and kit ready. Quick question for you or Marie, what sealant is used between the manifold and adapter plate and the adapter plate and the turbo?

CHeers

Richard

[lotusgirlmarie]

Copperseal between the manifold andadapter plate and the supplied gasket between the plate and turbo.

To all. Be prepared tomove/ remove the power steering pump and dipstick as this will make your life substatially easier. Teflon tape and antisieze are also a must on the tool list.

[CRAMBURY RS]

ah, the anti-seize. PLEASE ADD THAT TO ALL THREADS. because your bolts are steel (stainless or not) and your housings/threads are either cast iron or aluminum, it is important that your use anti-seize lubricant to ensure that they do not fuse together due to heat and oxidation. it only cost like $4-5 a tube and will last you a very long time. i even use it on my spark plug threads.

[MattDon]

for those of us who didnt source our turbos from the US (perindexed from lgm), can you please explain how one goes about it.