Side Window Glass Movement

[paza1]

Is there an acceptable amount of movement horizontally (across the car) with roof down? Not seen anything in the Manual specifying this. Would this movement be dependant on the rigidity of the door inner skin, the security of the slider channels?
Cheers
Mark

[Sy V]

... Would this movement be dependant on the rigidity of the door inner skin, the security of the slider channels?
Cheers
Mark

Yes, about the skin, but I can't see how it could change.
Yes, about the slide channels and...
Yes, about the presence (or otherwise) of the furry padded brackets (support pad door glass outer and inner) to stop sideways movement.

Part Nos:
A100B0828F
A100B0831F

[stu]

Paza 1
Hi chum mmmm Ok try moving window in and out look at the back corner, with the hood down and glass up!! the white bit if too much .... the screws have come loose where you can,t get to

It can be sorted ....

N/A The Best Stu

[paza1]

Thanks for info guys....door card will be coming off at some point.
Cheers
Mark

[nitroman]

I need to adjust the driver's window mainly horizontally, and slightly vertically. Beyond section BK, page 9, does anyone have actual pictures they took of the bolts to be loosened?

I'd like to do the job this weekend. Thanks, Matt

[esprit888]

Not sure if the attached helps but if you need a higher Res drop me a PM. The vertical can be adjusted with the upstop bobbins (marked B. one of them is well hidden behind the door handle) There is also some additional movement available from the brackets inside the door (yellow arrows) and by adjusting the motor vertical runner this can also give you a small amount of horizontal over and above the two outer runners.

I need to adjust the driver's window mainly horizontally, and slightly vertically. Beyond section BK, page 9, does anyone have actual pictures they took of the bolts to be loosened?

I'd like to do the job this weekend. Thanks, Matt

[esprit888]

Sy has a good point here, the furry padding brackets will be there, but the furry pads are probably not, allowing excess movement. There are four furry pads per door and three of mine were sitting in the bottom of the door skin as the adhesive used to attach them breaks down over time. check you have four per door and that the three vertical runners are all tight.

... Would this movement be dependant on the rigidity of the door inner skin, the security of the slider channels?
Cheers
Mark

Yes, about the skin, but I can't see how it could change.
Yes, about the slide channels and...
Yes, about the presence (or otherwise) of the furry padded brackets (support pad door glass outer and inner) to stop sideways movement.

Part Nos:
A100B0828F
A100B0831F

[nitroman]

Dude, that's awesome; exactly what I needed!

[nitroman]

While doing the horizontal window adjustment, I heard a snap and with that I suddenly had a LOT of loose window motor cable. What happened? The cable didn't snap, it just suddenly got slack.

Is the easiest fix to buy a Peugot 405 motor assembly? The one which comes up on my Ebay search is for black plastic motor housing, which is not the desired part from what little I've read so far. I assume we are getting the Peugot regulator just to have a new & torquey motor? Does anyone have a reliable vendor for the proper (Peugot regulator) item?

Would someone assemble a LIST of all the must-have parts (motor, cables, brackets) to do this job?

[esprit888]

Maybe it popped off one of the end rollers? Or did the butterfly slide break? They become very brittle with age but at least they are readily available.

While doing the horizontal window adjustment, I heard a snap adn with that I suddenly had a LOT of loose window motor cable. What happened? The cable didn't snap, it just suddenly got slack

Is the easiest fix to buy a Peugot 405 motor assembly? The one which comes up on my Ebay search is for black plastic motor housing, which is not the desired part from what little I've read so far. Does anyone have a reliable vendor for the proper item?

[nitroman]

Where can I buy a Peugot 405 window regulator with a METAL housing over the motor, as in this picture?

The only one I can find has a black plastic housing (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... MEWAX%3AIT) which is undesirable for many different reasons elucidated on Allen G's post...

Having just suffered the same fate as Ekapol, and thanks to his great write up I have just completed a 'Pug 405' transplant. Never knew the window could go up and down soo smooth!
One caution however, I purchased said Pug regulator on Ebay advertised as the real article. I suspect it was an aftermarket replacement as it looked nothing like the one Ekapol showed in his photos. All the fixings were in the right place but otherwise it was very differant. No alloy housing, just black plastic with a thin steel plate sandwiched in between, no push out bolts that could be replaced with the original items these were hex bar threaded at one end into a bolt at the other they had tapped holes which screwed down onto 'welded' bolts in the body. Remove said hex bolts insert 3 washers under them apply loctight and scew bolts back on. Bolts now sit 3/8 higher and allow for fitting to door. I also left the Pug wire coverings in place. These are very differant from the Lotus set up as the spring end sits against the motor housing and the other end is a plastic housing which required me to cut the end of the lifter bar where the holes for the cables are and turn them into slots.
Yes it would have been easier to photo this lot but you know how it is you dont have a lot of time and you just want to get it done.

Bottom line if you are looking at a regulator transplant, no worry it all took just 3 hours including the mods to the lifter bar (door already prep'd). To avoid the after market regulator challenges the part number to avoid unless all else fails is AC380 for a Peugeot 405 made by Magneti Marelli (£50 from Auto Elecrical outlets..or Ebay)

[nitroman]

I assume that the glass will have to be removed. To do this MUST the door-glass internal wipe seal be removed?

Is it true that the Peugot motor produces more torque than the Elan motor?

[dapinky]

Matt,

It is possible to do the motor without taking the glass out (in fact, IIRC the manual tells you to take the motor out before the glass anyway when replacing the door).

I know when i did my passenger door (your drivers door), i took the glass out first, as i was removing all the rubbing strips etc anyway, but put the motor back in last.

I had to take it out again afterwards to repair the plastic slider which slipped off the runner (wear & tear - soon fixed with a plastic washer and self-tapper), and to do the swap only took about 10 minutes (with the door panel already removed) - all in, I wouldn't think it should take any more than an hour, even if your 'access panels' in the door are siliconed in place.

[esprit888]

It's not mandatory even though the manual says you should. I removed mine because the seal was coming unstuck from the metal strip, and because my window was jammed making access to anything twice as hard! The glass has nothing in the middle but a hole and can't catch on the front as the runner is behind the cheater panel. The rear however needs to be carefully manipulated around the wipe seal. Getting the window lined up for install is a bugger on your own and you will wish you had removed the seal, but two (3 is even better!) pairs of hands makes it a lot easier.

I assume that the glass will have to be removed. To do this MUST the door-glass internal wipe seal be removed?

Is it true that the Peugot motor produces more torque than the Elan motor?

[esprit888]

Should have read the post more carefuly. Dave is right the glass does not need to come out, just lower the glass down until you can undo the butterfly clip then release it from the window and manually pull the window up to the top and use a block of wood inside the door panel to hold the window up. Then its six bolts, unplug the cable to the motor and take it out. I would do this and take a look at what the problem is before ordering another motor. If the cable is off one of the rollers thats your problem, if not take the centre and edge screw from the motor and pull the cover off, inside you will see a nylon cable guide and roller. The cable could also have come out of the butterfly slider.

I assume that the glass will have to be removed. To do this MUST the door-glass internal wipe seal be removed?

Is it true that the Peugot motor produces more torque than the Elan motor?

[nitroman]

OK. What year is the Peugoet motor off of? The last year the Peugeot 405 was sold stateside is 1991.

I'll take the guide-bar & motor out and have a look at things. But, as the motor is now making grinding noises I have a bad feeling the cable has become kinked. As I understand it that means I'll have to take the cover off and manually rewind/unkink the cables. Do you agree?

What a pisser. All I wanted to do was align the glass to the weather-stripping!

[dapinky]

Sorry, cant help with motor problems - mine were just an out of one door, into another type of job

As far as i recall, the motor was from the rear door of a Peugeot, but i don't know which one (I'm not being very helpful here )

[esprit888]

Probably right but as another post mentioned when you take the cover off the motor and slide the pulley off the shaft there is a black rubber spacer that can get caught up & bind. I doubt thats the case though as you mentioned loose cables. I am in the same boat with my door still in pieces but the new parts should be arriving any day now.

OK. What year is the Peugoet motor off of? The last year the Peugeot 405 was sold stateside is 1991.

I'll take the guide-bar & motor out and have a look at things. But, as the motor is now making grinding noises I have a bad feeling the cable has become kinked. As I understand it that means I'll have to take the cover off and manually rewind/unkink the cables. Do you agree?

What a pisser. All I wanted to do was align the glass to the weather-stripping!

[nitroman]

Did you order a comlete assembly from Dave Bean? They want $389 for it. It's tempting but I'll wait until I remove the old unit.

[dapinky]

Matt,

As posted earlier, i haven't done this job, but a few people over there seem to have done it (Ekapol, TheBard[Ian])......

this thread has the info on it (including a link you inserted to a company in USA which can supply/repair units).

The actual part number isn't listed (just an expired E-bay item number), but i did a quick search and came up with a few options over here, and some S/H units in USA.

in UK

in USA

The Pug 405 was availlable here until 1994, so therere may be different versions - also i don't know if the left hand side for a Pug is the one you need for the left side of an Elan?????

Should you have difficulty finding the right part in America, just let me know, and I can sort out a UK 'Handling Agent' for you