AB Motorsport gearcable set: new July 2009 specification

[Alan_Betts]

Many of you will know me but, for those who do not, my name is Alan Betts. I designed the AB gearcable set for the Elan and my business, AB Motorsport, produces them.

I have not posted on Elan Central for a long time but I thought I should do so now to let you know that we have just released an updated version of the gearcable set that we make for the Elan.

We have sold the original version of the Elan gearcable set for some six years and, so far as we know, no set has ever failed in service. The original version is what I have on my own car. But anything can be improved upon and I thought that after six years the time was right for a detailed and methodical development and testing process.

The result of that process has been a whole bunch of changes to the design, production, testing, supply and customer service in respect of each gearcable set. These include:

1. Replacement of the rod end that attaches to the base of the gearlever with a higher quality component.

We have replaced this part with a very high quality component sourced from Japan. The new spec rod end is machined to very close tolerances and is capable of taking a dynamic force of 1000 kgs.

To work with this new spec rod end there are a number of small associated parts. These are custom made specifically for this application.

2. A completely re-designed gear cable bracket at the transmission end.

The gearcable bracket we have used until now was closely based on an S1 OEM gearcable bracket in respect of some key dimensions. Some of those key dimensions on the OEM gearcable bracket were less than perfect and, unwittingly, they were a legacy element of our original gearcable bracket design..

The new gearcable bracket was designed from scratch and the objective was to come up with something that would work equally well with the OEM transmission selector housing, the OEM transmission housing with our shortshifter fitted and do so for both LHD and RHD variants.

We went through a whole bunch of designs, five I think, sometimes changing a dimension by as little as 1mm and now I believe that the design is pretty much 100% right.

The principle benefits of the new design gearcable bracket are:

(a) an improvement in gearshift feel; and

(b) when the cables are adjusted the adjusters will be roughly in the centre of their range of adjustment; and

(c) better clearance of the starter motor.

3. Dimensional changes to the gearcable bushes and changes to the fitment process.

Some of the bushes have had very small dimensional changes to improve the operation of the cables. The bronze bush at the transmission end is now fitted using a hydraulic press and Loctite retaining compound. Please be aware that if you ever wish to remove this bush on the new spec cables you will have to use a hydraulic press and an appropriate jig.

4. Improvements to our quality control process

Every set that we supply is tested to ensure that the cable ends work and fit with brand new OEM components at the gearlever end and at the transmission selector housing end. Because we check with new components if you feel that there is too much free play at the cable ends the first thing you should check is the dimensions of the OEM components you have using a micrometer. Bearing in mind that many of the OEM parts are now approaching 20 years old the most likely cause of free play at the cable ends is wear of the OEM parts.

5. Better availability

Until now we have manufactured in batches as and when orders came in. That has meant supply delays.

We have now taken a decision to maintain a defined minimum level of stock which should ensure that orders are fulfilled much faster. We hope to be able to maintain that position but we are dependent upon sub-contractors for some parts.

6. Gearcable fitment notes.

I am pretty sure I must have done this job more times than anybody else in the world.

Within the next two days we will post detailed fitment notes with photographs on our website for the latest version of the gearcable set. We have no broadband availability here hence the reason why it will take a couple of days to upload the photographs.

I have chosen to call them fitment notes as opposed to instructions as there is more than one way in which you can do various elements of this job.

My best guess is that a decent mechanic with experience of the Elan and basic metric hand tools could do the job comfortably in under two hours. I can do the job a lot quicker than that but then I have done the job many times.

7. Re-designed gear cable spanners

The gearcable spanners are designed the way they are for two reasons:

(a) so that the cable adjusters can be adjusted in the limited space available; and

(b) the short length limits the amount of torque that may be applied to the adjusters.

We have re-designed the spanners to make them lighter. It's a Lotus thing you know. But seriously, even a small reduction in weight feeds through into a small reduction in the cost of freight so there is a reason for doing so.

I believe that the totality of the changes made result in a better product and a better service. In the last week we have sent out a large number of gearcable sets and they are all to the new specification. Any of you who are waiting for gearcables from Will B right now will receive a cable set to the new specification outlined above.

I hope you will be pleased with the results. A lot of time and effort has gone into making these changes.

If you want to talk to me about our gearcables you can contact me through Elan Central Private Messaging. I do not want to post my E mail address here as doing so on a public forum tends to result in increased levels of spam.

[Sy V]

Alan

May I take this opportunity to thank you for your support over the years.
It is reassuring to see that your skills and attention to detail continue to be an invaluable asset to Elan ownership.

Simon Vickers

[mnemonix]

Hi Alan,

may I ask if this is the specification being delivered for the group buy here:

forum link

Thanks!

Chris.

[Nige]

Alan, welcome (back) to LEC and thank you for posting details of the latest version of your cables. I have the original version and your short shift on my S2 and am delighted with them. I look forward to reading more and seeing pictures of the new cables on your web site Here for those who may not know. I know have to justify why I need to upgrade to the new version .

I have one question. For UK customers your cables have usually been ordered through Will B, I assume that arrangement remains?

[Alan_Betts]

I am having some difficulty uploading the new content to the website so as a first step I will post the text of the fitment notes below.

Assuming that works I will post up the photographs shortly thereafter.

[Alan_Betts]

AB Motorsport gearcable set for the Lotus Elan M100: fitment notes

These are our fitment notes on the AB gearcables. We did all the design and development work on these cables and I have done the job of fitting them maybe fifty times.

You can fit the cables without following every step below. You could, for example, skip the step involving stripping the gearlever assembly. But if you want to get optimum performance from the external gear selection parts on an Elan these are the steps I believe you should follow.

These fitting notes assume that you have removed the OEM gearcables, removing parts as necessary, as per Elan Service Notes. To make removal and fitment of the cables easier:

(a) ensure the car is in neutral

(b) remove the large hose which connects the intercooler to the throttle body

(c) unbolt the coolant header tank from its fixing bracket and release the tank retaining strap. There is no need to drain the cooling system or fully remove the coolant tank. Pull the coolant header tank forwards to allow access to the transmission selector box.

Fitting the new gearcable set

Strip and clean all moving parts of the gear lever assembly. Inspect moving parts for wear. Re-assemble the gear lever assembly applying a small amount of grease to all moving parts. Apply Loctite or similar to any threaded components removed before re-assembling.

Remove the gearcable bracket from the new cable set. To remove the cables from, or fit the cables to the bracket draw back the rubber bellows towards the ends of the cables to expose the thinner steel part of the cable end. This thinner part of the gearcable will fit through the slot where the adjusters are fitted to the bracket.

Identify the two cable ends with the large nylon bush and the small brass bush. Feed those ends of the gearcables into the chassis tunnel from the gear lever aperture until the cable ends emerge in the engine bay. The photograph below shows the two cable ends with the gearcable bracket attached.

[Insert photo]

Once you can see the gearcables emerging into the engine bay pull them through a 90 degree turn to the left hand side of the car so that those cable ends are in the vicinity of the selector box mounted on top of the transmission.

Fit the transmission bracket supplied with the cable set to the transmission using the same two bolt holes and bolts as an OE S1 gearcable bracket. Use M8 washers under the heads of the fixing bolts. Finger tighten the bolts holding the bracket to the transmission; it should be possible to move the bracket laterally on the bolts at this stage.

Secure the gearcables to the steel gearlever bracket using the OEM Lotus spring clips. Note that Lotus used at least three different designs of spring clip. They are all interchangeable. At this stage the gearlever assembly should be on top of the transmission tunnel just outside the chassis aperture.

Fit the fore/aft cable rod end to the base of the gearlever. Use only the rod end, bolt, spacer and nyloc nut supplied with the cables. The M8 socket head bolt used is made specifically for this application. It is not a standard M8 bolt. Do not add, remove or substitute parts as doing so may prevent selection of all gears. The bolt feeds through from the left hand side. Ensure that the conical spacer is fitted on the left hand side of the gearlever with the large diameter abutting the gearlever and the small diameter abutting the rod end. Torque the bolt to 18 Nm (13 foot pounds). This photograph shows the gearlever assembly from underneath with the rod end and associated parts correctly fitted.

[Insert photo]

Fit the crossgate cable to the gearlever assembly as per the OE cables.

Move the gearlever complete with attached cables into position so that it can be fixed to the top of the chassis with the four original M8 screws. At first attempt you may think that the gearlever assembly will not fit into position but it will. The trick is holding the gearlever assembly at the right angle and positioning the gear lever so that the cables and lower part of the gear lever assembly will fit through the chassis aperture.

When fixing the gearlever bracket to the chassis be careful not to cross-thread the bolts as this will damage the chassis. The gearlever bracket (B100F0014F) is of variable quality in that the 90 degree folds on the bracket are often greater or less than 90 degrees increasing the likelihood of cross threading the bolts.

Loosely assemble the two gearcables to the bracket at the transmission end.

This photograph shows the cables and the bracket correctly assembled. The part just to the right of the gearcable bracket is the speedometer cable.

[Insert photo]

Attach the gearcables to the selector box as per the originals. The cable with the large black nylon bush is the fore/aft cable and fixes to the lower of the two attachment points on the selector box. Use the standard Lotus 'penny' washers with this bush (A075W4022Z x 2). One washer fits underneath the bush and the other fits above. The cable with the small brass bush is the crossgate cable and it fixes to the upper of the two attachment points. The bush is shaped like a top hat. The 'brim' of the top hat bush faces downwards. Fit the standard Lotus washer above this bush (B082W4018F) or a standard M8 plain washer works fine. I choose to grease the bushes with wheel bearing grease or similar but it is not absolutely necessary.

Check the car is in neutral. Adjust the cable adjusters using only the two small spanners supplied so that the gear lever is approximately upright when viewed from both the side of the car and the rear. Tighten the gearcable adjusters. The spanners supplied are designed to fit within the available space and limit the torque that may be applied to the cable adjusters.

Position the gearcable bracket. The mounting holes in the gearcable bracket offer some positional adjustment for the following main reasons:

(a) The optimum position for the gearcable bracket varies depending on whether you are using a standard gear selection control box or one fitted with our shortshifter.

(b) The crossgate cable runs very close to the starter motor and there are minor variations from car to car in the dimensions of the starter motor casting. The adjustability in the bracket allows the crossgate cable to clear the starter motor.

The optimum position for the bracket on your car is an exercise in the compromise of three objectives which may conflict:

(a) minimising the angular movement of the cable ends.

This means adjusting the position of the gearcable bracket so that the two adjusters are pointing, so far as possible, directly at the attachment points on the selector box. Even if they are not pointing directly at the attachment points on the selector box the bracket must be positioned such that all gears can be selected within the angular range of the gearcable ends.

(b) Optimise the bend in the cables.

In broad terms the gearcables make a 90 degree turn to the left when they exit the chassis tunnel. Aim to maximise the radius of that turn to minimise friction in the cables..

(c) Check that the crossgate cable clears the starter motor

Zero clearance is OK as long as the starter motor is not exerting great pressure on the cable when the gearcable bracket bolts are tightened.

Tighten the gearcable bracket fixing bolts.

Re-check gearcable adjustment by reference to the position of the gearlever. It may have altered slightly as you tightened the gearcable bracket fixing bolts.

Check that the gearcable bellows at the transmission end fully cover the articulating ends of the cables. Then use the two cable ties supplied to secure the bellows at the ends nearest to the gearcable adjustment bracket.

Check for smooth selection of all five gears and reverse. Check that the gear lever self-centres in neutral. Do not run the engine at this stage. If you cannot get smooth selection of all gears minor adjustment of the cables is necessary.

Replace all parts removed such as tunnel trim, coolant header to tank and intercooler to throttle body hose.

Road test to check gear selection.

Alan Betts

AB Motorsport
www.abmotosport.com

17th July 2009

[Alan_Betts]

This shows the new rod end and associated parts fixed to the bottom of the gearlever viewed from underneath.

I have reduced the size of the photograph to post it.

[Alan_Betts]

This is the new design for the gearcable bracket at the transmission end.

[rip]

Hi Alan,

may I ask if this is the specification being delivered for the group buy here:

forum link

Chris:
Alan already answered that in his original post:

Any of you who are waiting for gearcables from Will B right now will receive a cable set to the new specification outlined above.

Alan, that's great news. I am well please with the difference your short shift has made so am looking forward to fitting these.

[Specky]

Here's a top tip...

When fitting the new cables,

Get a new gear stick assembly from the Lotus Aftersales. (Cheap as chips) A100F0011F Controller assy gearshift £17.02

As we all know they wear out, but have been know to crack on the base plate.

So why take the chance, a few squid well spent I think.

you could also push the boat out with a new rubber gaitor too (The one under the leather one) A100F0020F Gaiter-Gear Shift £4.26

TTFN

[lotos]

Here's a top tip...

When fitting the new cables,

Get a new gear stick assembly from the Lotus Aftersales. (Cheap as chips) A100F0011F Controller assy gearshift £17.02

As we all know they wear out, but have been know to crack on the base plate.

So why take the chance, a few squid well spent I think.

you could also push the boat out with a new rubber gaitor too (The one under the leather one) A100F0020F Gaiter-Gear Shift £4.26

TTFN

Now you tell me...

[Specky]

Not only you....... Everyone...

Oh and Geoff....

TTFN

[tweetdriver63]

The new spec bracket would have come in handy when I got my cables last year. I had to go to a machine shop and have one custom made because one of the cables couldn't be mounted and adjusted. The mounting point had to be moved about 3/4 inch.

[tigerdog]

May I take this opportunity to thank you for your support over the years. It is reassuring to see that your skills and attention to detail continue to be an invaluable asset to Elan ownership.

Hear, hear! Thank you for your continued support of our small but dedicated community!

[tigerdog]

(Cheap as chips) ... £17.02

Must be really good chips...

[HJ2]

Here's a top tip...

When fitting the new cables,

Get a new gear stick assembly from the Lotus Aftersales. (Cheap as chips) A100F0011F Controller assy gearshift £17.02

As we all know they wear out, but have been know to crack on the base plate.

So why take the chance, a few squid well spent I think.

you could also push the boat out with a new rubber gaitor too (The one under the leather one) A100F0020F Gaiter-Gear Shift £4.26

TTFN

I was told i got the last one available from the parts sale... I ordered two, but got only one because the couldn't deliver anymore...

[Specky]

Oh well...

Ignore my last then...

TTFN

[HJ2]

Never mind, it was truly a Top Tip!

[rip]

I was told i got the last one available from the parts sale... I ordered two, but got only one because the couldn't deliver anymore...

I'm not surprised. I collected 4 for various members & there were only 11 on the list to start with.

[chrisP]

Hi
Just a quick question to anyone who has just fitted a set of the new specification cables. Has anyone had any problems fitting the cables to the pins on the gearbox selector mechanism? I seem to be having a problem where the bushes (both the plastic one and the brass one) are too tight a fit to go over the pins. Is there a fix for this or will I have to take the cables out and ream the bushes?

Cheers
Chris