Side Window Glass Movement

[Specky]

I've stripped a few....

The reason you normally get grinding sound is the wires are crossed over on the drum...

This was all self induced on mine...the butter fly slider snapped so I replaced it... When the tension was released the cables jumped. My top tips are take it all to pieces, use a vice to put it back together, use a spare battery and bench test it. The vice is used to get tension on the wires. I'll do some pics over the weekend.

TTFN

[Specky]

Ok.....

IIRC Here's how I replaced the slider....

1) Ordered a new slider, when it arrived it's a different mod state...slightly more re-enforced
2) remove the cover on the drum
3) lift up the white plastic wire drum
4) the wire will jump every where...(don't worry)
5) remove the black rubber seal
6) remove the cable guide....the one on top of the drive shaft pinion bearing
7) remove the motor if required
8 ) clean and regrease
9) The tension will be off the butterfly slider
10) remove the butterfly...just pulls off
11) remove the two wires and replace the slider
12) Place the runner in a vice, the nearer to the end the better
13) refit the shorter wire on the drum...just one loop...
14) fit the black rubber drive blocks into the plastic wire drum
15) Slide it onto the pinion....
16) pull the long wire thru...
16) check the lid will fit, just to confirm the drum is down far enough
17) now pull the wire back thru and loop it over the drum, take care not to cross the wires...three loops I think...
18) keep a little tension on the wire... just to stop the wires bird nesting and crossing over
19) refit the guide and lid
20) use a spare battery and drive the slider into the vice jaws
21) the spring will compress and the motor should cut out
22) Pull the long wire round the pulley wheel and locate into the slider... (this can be tricky.... I used long nosed pliers...it will appear at first to be about 1cm or so to short..)
23) Use the battery and drive the slider back and forth.
24) If it shounds like grinding broken glass, you've crossed the wires again... Doh
25) It is possible to remove just the lid to sort our the wires, but if you drive the motor with the lid off, the drum wheel tends to jump...

Motor.jpg

motor 2.jpg

TTFN

[nitroman]

I've got everything adjusted nicely now. Here are pictures of how the center-slider sits in/on the rail. Also, the new (manufactured 2005, $389, different vendor than factory-installed part) window regulators supplied by Dave Bean have a different electrical connector than the original window regulator, so you'll have to make an adapter. I usually do it that way, especially since I am almost done rebuilding the original regulator, and conceivably could use it again some day.

My problem was two-fold. The metal-cable had jumped the plastic-pulley on the top-end of the rail, which is what caused the end of the item's service-life. Secondly, the part of the plastic center-slide which actually "grabs" the metal rail had broken off long ago. As such the window now sits much more steadily when in the up position. In fact it doesn't feel like an Elan window at all! Others have mentioned that the slider is bigger/thicker now than the original part. That is for the sole purpose of providing both a longer & a thicker piece of plastic, to guard against just such a breakage.

[nitroman]

This connector plugs into the window-regulator-motor. As you can see these slits are vertical, whilst the NEW motor has horizontal metal connectors located VERY close to each other, not far apart as the factory harness requires.

[nitroman]

I finally got caught in a real "gully-washer" of a rainstorm yesterday. I'm happy to report my driver's window no longer leaks, at all! In addition to repositioning the middle window-top rubber I had re-angled the glass and also used my drill to extend the troughs which the rear v-cut metal-bracket slides in, which in turn catches the rear metal "mushroom" upper-limit-stop.

I'd intended to eliminate wind noise, but a seal is a seal baby, against either gas or liquid.

[esprit888]

While doing the sliders on my drivers side on sunday i noticed i have the PUG window motor with the steel housing (there was a 'made in france' part number on it but i didnt think to write it down before i re-installed the damn thing ) I dont have the door panel on yet so i will see if i can read it with a flashlight and a mirror!

Matt,

As posted earlier, i haven't done this job, but a few people over there seem to have done it (Ekapol, TheBard[Ian])......

this thread has the info on it (including a link you inserted to a company in USA which can supply/repair units).

The actual part number isn't listed (just an expired E-bay item number), but i did a quick search and came up with a few options over here, and some S/H units in USA.

in UK

in USA

The Pug 405 was availlable here until 1994, so therere may be different versions - also i don't know if the left hand side for a Pug is the one you need for the left side of an Elan?????

Should you have difficulty finding the right part in America, just let me know, and I can sort out a UK 'Handling Agent' for you

[paza1]

Finally took the door card off and found one furry pad in the bottom of the door. When refitted, this should improve the movement but I am not convinced it will cure. White butterfly thingy looks in tact. When window is fully up it is as solid as my drivers side. There seems an awful lot of movement when part down compared to my known good drivers side.... What do you think? Fit the pad and see what happens? Anything else to check/do while I am in there?
Cheers
Mark

[Specky]

Check all the sliders... I bet one has snapped...(fwd upper)

TTFN

[paza1]

Dave,
What's the best way to get at it to check/replace?
Cheers
Mark

[Specky]

You'll have to put the window fully up and down...

use a torch and look down the rails,

When the window is fully up, the top front slider is a sqidge proud IIRC. (easier if the mirror cheater is removed)

The centre slider is visible from inside the door.

TTFN

[paza1]

Mirror cheater already off. Will have a look tomorrow.
Many thanks
Mark

[paza1]

Took some pics, not sure what's going on. Can anyone help?

Thanks
Mark

[Specky]

First impression, they both look fine...

It's hard because you can't see the glass that well..

Are the other sliders OK?

Have you got a C-clip on the otherside of the butterfly slider?

TTFN

[paza1]

Yeah, that's what I thought...
Will check the otherside of the butterfly and post pics
Do you mean the rear sliders? Do they look the same as the front?

Cheers
Mark

[Specky]

Slighty longer..

TTFN

[paza1]

Hope these shots help

Cheers
Mark

[Specky]

Took some pics, not sure what's going on. Can anyone help?

Thanks
Mark

Going back to the picture of the forward top slider,

Elan window.jpg

Could I confirm that the bobin that goes through the window is intact. (The reflection is hiding the information, I can see one side is good, It's the other side that breaks off)

The best way to describe is....... Two white plastic washers, one either the other side of the window glass. (It's all one piece, just screwed together)

TTFN

[paza1]

Yep, both intact.

[paza1]

Just a thought...how central should the top of the glass be (when fully down) between the two fuzzy felt support pads? Mine is tight against the outer rear but front is central.....is there an adjustment? I'll check the manual but any help appreciated
Thanks
Mark

[Specky]

There's quite a bit,

be carefull when adjusting...... the butterfly and or glass can contact the steel plate within the door.

TTFN