LGM Turbo Group Buy - Start Shipping Out Yeah

[Monty]

Thanks Richard

Yes got the email of Paul, is that write up in Word? as need to instal word 1st

So i need to get a small sheet of copper

Is it possible to use the Stock gasket from the stock turbo to manifold? or is that completely the wrong shape

Suppose i`ll get a better look tomorrow

[lotusgirlmarie]

Salut Gents,
you will need copperseal between the manifold and the adapter plate. Do not use anything other than the supplied gasket between the plate and the turbo. This may male removal of the one recessed bolt impossible. Use generous amounts of antisieze on the bolts, especially the recessed one. When installing the downpipe it may seem like a bolt is missing... It's not. There are three SS allens, one long bolt and a really random looking stud and nut. The allens are used on the two lowest holes, the hole furthest toward the front of the car and the top most hole. The long bolt goes to the rear upper engine side hole and through the heatsheild bracket. Remember to leave a space between the turbo and shield. The cutouts should match the dipstick and the front contour. The last hole us for the stud. Ironically this should be the first one installed as it will make seating the gasket for the DP easier. It's also the biggest pain to tighten. Next should be the allens and last the heatsheild. Hope that helps.

BTW. If you were wondering. I left all of the wastegates detached from their flapper valves as I found it easier to attach the oil drain fitting by removing the wastegate and popping the drain on. Just try to not loose the clip that holds it on.

[Monty]

Thanks Marie,

Think i`ve got a good idea now, Richard has sent me a PDF file with some pic`s and comments. Turbo, manifold and studs have been removed but i can`t fit the new turbo until i get the Copper sealant which i had to order online as i could n`t get at the local motor factors. Anyways i`m going to do a test fit and see if i can drop the manifold and turbo in one go.

[CRAMBURY RS]

Anyways i`m going to do a test fit and see if i can drop the manifold and turbo in one go.

that sounds like a great idea! i think if you have ratcheting wrenches with a flexible head. even if don't manage to install them together, it will help to have the water lines and oil drain fitted. threading them while the turbo is already bolted on can be a PITA.

[Monty]

Marie,

can you confirm which water pipe goes to the thermostat?

Ie the short water pipe coming from the top with the 90 degree fitting, does this go to the thermostat?

I`ve removed the metal oil return pipe from the stock turbo but it does not fit the Garrett and will have to elongate the holes to get it to fit, did you have the same problem.

Do i need to adjust the actuator arm as it`s difficult to get on to the wastegate pin and just wonder is that to tight? or is that all preset

[lotusgirlmarie]

The 90 hose (top hose) goes to the T coolant hose and the 45 hose (bottom hose) goes to the thermostat housing. This is the same orientation as OEM. I thought it best to keep it that way.

The oil return lines holes will need to be enlongated slightly. After doing so and mounting it, mocking up the turbo and indexing it so that all ports can be reached should be the next step. Once indexing is complete I would remove the turbo and attach the wastegate. Make sure it clears the oil drain line. There should be some tension against the wastegate as this is what keeps it closed securely while under boost. You will need to pull the arm 2-3mm to attach it to the flapper valve. Be sure to reinstall the retaining clip properly and your set. Put the turbo back in and start attaching hoses and the downpipe. Lastly is the wastgate vacuum lines followed by the discharge and intake pipes.

[RichardK]

Marie,

Did you trim your 90 degree Samco discharge line at either end?

[lotusgirlmarie]

Oui. C'est vrai. They will need to be trimmed to fit properly. Just don't trim too much. Use the band clamp as a guide and use a new sharp razor to make the cuts

[Monty]

The 90 hose (top hose) goes to the T coolant hose and the 45 hose (bottom hose) goes to the thermostat housing. This is the same orientation as OEM. I thought it best to keep it that way.

The oil return lines holes will need to be enlongated slightly. After doing so and mounting it, mocking up the turbo and indexing it so that all ports can be reached should be the next step. Once indexing is complete I would remove the turbo and attach the wastegate. Make sure it clears the oil drain line. There should be some tension against the wastegate as this is what keeps it closed securely while under boost. You will need to pull the arm 2-3mm to attach it to the flapper valve. Be sure to reinstall the retaining clip properly and your set. Put the turbo back in and start attaching hoses and the downpipe. Lastly is the wastgate vacuum lines followed by the discharge and intake pipes.

Thanks Marie

I`ve now got the Stock metal oil return pipe fitted Just waiting for the Copper sealant to come as i tried at least six places and couldn`t get it so had to order online

Just need to get the Bolts from the adaptor plate to turbo cut down and a new flexi hose for the oil return pipe. Then should be ready to rock `n` roll, shouldn`t take to long to fit really.

Just a couple of questions
When installed and ready to run should i squirt a bit of oil in to the oil feed port to lubricate before starting up?

why does the lower Alluminium connection adaptor that fits to the bottom of the turbo (intercooler pipe) have a threaded hole on the side? I take it i need to block this off

Cheers
Jay

[bobbrown]

When installed and ready to run should i squirt a bit of oil in to the oil feed port to lubricate before starting up?

Cheers
Jay

The recommendation from Garrett is to turn the engine over on the starter with the plugs out and the ignition/fuel disabled and the oil return from the turbo disconnected until oil is seen coming from the turbo. the reconnect the drain and run at idle for 10 mins.

Bob

[Monty]

When installed and ready to run should i squirt a bit of oil in to the oil feed port to lubricate before starting up?

Cheers
Jay

The recommendation from Garrett is to turn the engine over on the starter with the plugs out and the ignition/fuel disabled and the oil return from the turbo disconnected until oil is seen coming from the turbo. the reconnect the drain and run at idle for 10 mins.

Bob

Thanks for that Bob,

I`ll leave the plugs in but just turn the inertia switch off


Found out from Richard that the Vaccum connection T piece thingy is to be reused from the stock turbo and thats whats the hole is for on the outlet pipe


Getting there slowly

[RichardK]

Errr...Bob.....I didn't do any of the oil prep....Can an airlock form in the turbo oil circuit.......Am I completely buggered?

Seems to be working just fine....still

Thanks Marie - that's exactly what I did - used one of the hose clamps to act as a guide. I don't think I took enough off though....

[bobbrown]

Richard,

Its not an airlock issue, it is to ensure there is an oil supply to the turbo the moment the engine fires even on idle they are spinning at quite a high rpm.
When I was doing diesel turbo development work with a new turbo installation we alway turned the engine over to get the oil pressure up before firing it up but hey as you say too late now.
The chances of damaging the bearings is small but it has happened and if you have the drain disconnected you are certain there is an oil supply to the turbo.
Some recommend and supply a syringe of oil to squirt into the oil feed prior to starting.

It is worth noting that ball bearing turbo's do not need the same oil feed as those with plain bearings and the ball type often have a restrictor in the oil feed line to reduce the oil flow and aid turbo spin up.
Quote by Garrett
Ball Bearing Turbo
An oil restrictor is recommended for optimal performance with ball bearing turbochargers. Oil pressure of 40 - 45 psi at maximum engine speed is recommended to prevent damage to the turbocharger’s internals. In order to achieve this pressure, a restrictor with a 0.040' orifice will normally suffice, but you should always verify the oil pressure entering the turbo after the restrictor in insure that the components are functioning properly.
Recommended oil feed is -3AN or -4AN line or hose/tubing with a similar ID. As always, use an oil filter that meets or exceeds the OEM specifications.

Bob

[RichardK]

Thanks Bob, as you say, too late now! Anyway makes sense to have the oil in place.

You have a PM on a brake subject!

Cheers

R

[RichardK]

Thanks Bob, as you say, too late now! Anyway makes sense to have the oil in place.

You have a PM on a brake subject!

Cheers

R

[Monty]

It is worth noting that ball bearing turbo's do not need the same oil feed as those with plain bearings and the ball type often have a restrictor in the oil feed line to reduce the oil flow and aid turbo spin up.
Quote by Garrett
Ball Bearing Turbo
An oil restrictor is recommended for optimal performance with ball bearing turbochargers. Oil pressure of 40 - 45 psi at maximum engine speed is recommended to prevent damage to the turbocharger’s internals. In order to achieve this pressure, a restrictor with a 0.040' orifice will normally suffice

Bob

Think this is what Bob is talking about, it`s part of the oil feed connection

[CRAMBURY RS]

ball bearings are dependent on lubrication, not so much pressurization. older thrust bearing turbos need oil forced between the shaft and bearings, while ball bearings turn on races. too much oil pressure can actually cause leakage into the exhaust and intake.

as far as the bullet head studs for the Turbo to Adapter, you want the studs to be nearly flush on the bottom of the adapter before installing. that will leave you just under 3mm of clearance to the tubrine housing. be sure if you do shave them, to shave the bullet head, not the bottom.

this pic shows the clearance i had between the studs and lines. keep in mind, i used the OEM gasket between the adapter and manifold. that gives me approximatey 1.5-2.0mm


again, help yourself to pics
http://s25.photobucket.com/albums/c99/v ... /?start=80

[Monty]

A little write up and photo`s of Dico`s instal are here viewtopic.php?f=44&t=13513&start=60

3 Bar MAP Sensor and RC PL8 550 injectors are also now fitted to Dico`s Blue beast
Imfo here viewtopic.php?f=44&t=15997
Write up here http://wikilec.9600.org/index.php/Fuel_injectors

Next step will be going to stock chip but closed loop for the O2 sensor and then an Electronic Boost Controller

[Blue_Bullet]

Does anyone know if I still will be able to get my hands on the intake pipe to trash can and greddy dump valve with pipe?

Please PM me if you can help!

[CRAMBURY RS]

i would PM Marie or Ekkers. who knows, she might have a spare or be willing to make you one.