Assume rear bearings on way out

[DavidEJM]

I was hoping to make it to Snetterton next week if I can get away, however before taking the car out today I just had a casual check at the rear nearsdide wheel. Grabbing the top of the wheel and giving it a pull creates a clunking noise and quite a significant one at that. Then checked the offside and found that to be the same to a lesser degree.

I would normally expect this to mean that the bearings are shot but I'm surprsed that it seems to have happened quite quickly as I did this same check when I bought the car less than 500 miles ago with no obvious nioise or play.

There is no rumbling which I would normally expect to hear from dodgy bearings.

So, the questions are......
Is this down to adjustment or am I looking at replacing the bearings?
If so where is it best to get them?
Is it possible that it is something else?

Thanks guys.

David

PS. I know that they are only supposed to be hand tightened, but the hub nut seemed very loose when I took out the split pin and checked it.

[RayD]

David,

1. Is this down to adjustment or am I looking at replacing the bearings?

It depends if they’re worn. If they are worn you should be able to feel it as you turn the wheel ... Good ones will be perfectly smooth and quiet.

2. If so where is it best to get them?

Local Motor Discount Store

The Vauxhall Carlton 78-86 Kit LBK 8030, contains…
KLM 11710 (11749 on inner race) Daewoo MGM
KL 45410 (KL 45449 on inner race) Daewoo MGM
Seal 40- 52- 5 -7

Detail on the box

OEM
BRT = BRT 553
QH = QWB 155C
TEC = Kit 086
VEC = VK424
Bar Code 5 012641 109665


3. Is it possible that it is something else?

Yes, but it’s best to rule out the bearings first.

4. I know that they are only supposed to be hand tightened, but the hub nut seemed very loose when I took out the split pin and checked it.

While it may seem “loose” it should also be “tight” up to the washer. In use they get slightly “tighter “ as they warm up.

Ray

[muley]

..what Ray said.

When I adjust the bearings per the manual I always get a SLIGHT bit of free play and apparantly this is quite normal for the Elan - but does lead to side discussions with my MOT tester.

Jim

[rip]

What are your rear disks like?

The reason I ask is that Bob Brown has made a rear hub replacement kit, including bearings. This replaces the current combined (expensive) hub/disc with a separate hub onto which fits a (cheap) Astra disc.

May be worth sending him an e-mail.

[DavidEJM]

Well they seem to be OK now having slightly tightened the hub nut.

I will keep a close eye on them between now and the MOT.

rip - I remember you saying about those when we met at Phil's. My discs seem OK now that they have had a bit of use. Again, all depends what happens at MOT time.

Thanks for the info all.

[rip]

rip - I remember you saying about those when we met at Phil's. My discs seem OK now that they have had a bit of use. Again, all depends what happens at MOT time.

One day I'll put faces to names

[bobbrown]

It is worth checking the lower face of the stub axle where the outer bearing runs as this has been known to wear and cause play in the wheel although the bearing is adjusted correctly.

Bob

[chris.t]

i hope that it hasn't done any damage to the hub/disk

[RayD]

..what Ray said.

When I adjust the bearings per the manual I always get a SLIGHT bit of free play and apparently this is quite normal for the Élan - but does lead to side discussions with my MOT tester.

Jim

I understand Jim, given the choice between two groves in the nut I’d go for the tighter one that doesn’t give any discernable knock when testing the wheel top and bottom.

In other words if there is a slight knock on what you see as the “correct” split pin groove, I’d move it clockwise one – under normal road conditions it wouldn’t be too tight. After a few miles you’d almost certainly be able to get the nut off with your fingers... it would in fact only be "finger tight" as per manual.

As Bob says ... It’s worth checking the new bearings on the stub shaft before assembly. No amount of adjustment will solve a worn shaft.

Its best to carry out the adjustment after the wheel is fitted, and, as much as it says "finger tight" generally the last bit needs a spanner to align the split pin groove.

Ray

[DeanG]

I've adjusted the rear bearings several times. Once when it was impossible to get them perfectly adjusted I replaced the bearings. Suddenly it was easy to get them adjusted. They also seem to need readjusting after the first 500-1000 miles of wear. I will be doing a 500 mile adjustment this weekend.

[RayD]

I understand what you mean about the subsequent adjustment Dean; I found my new ones needed moving a notch when I checked them prior to the MOT.

It’s quite likely you’d get the same effect after 5 or 10 miles let alone 500 or a 1000. I think it’s more of "settling in" and grease dispersion than wear.

Ray

[DeanG]

I understand what you mean about the subsequent adjustment Dean; I found my new ones needed moving a notch when I checked them prior to the MOT.

It’s quite likely you’d get the same effect after 5 or 10 miles let alone 500 or a 1000. I think it’s more of "settling in" and grease dispersion than wear.

Ray

Thanks for that bit of information.

This is a long weekend for us (Beat you guys a couple of hundred years ago). I hope to adjust the bearings and tighten a few hose clamps tomorrow. I will try to take a picture of our car with the Yorktown Victory Monument this weekend.

[DavidEJM]

This is a long weekend for us (Beat you guys a couple of hundred years ago).

Lucky that long weekends don't get given out everytime someone beats us at football (or soccer to the 'emerging nation'). The Germans would get nothing done for a start!