marky_lad wrote:Over the weekend I have noticed that the installation is actually pretty poor. The upper trim does not sit on the glass properly
If this allows water in then the alloy screen support will corrode and the corrosion powder will show through the blacked out part of the screen. The upper screen trim is supposed to embed itself into the bonding seal to prevent this which is why the upper trim should be fitted to the screen and then the bonding bead should be applied next to it.
and the corner trims that connect the side trims to the top trim (for want of a better expression) are pretty loose.
The corner caps are no longer available but cleaning up the sikaflex/bonding material off old, thin plastic is not easy without damaging them. I did mine with a surgical scapel. Additionally before they are fitted the corner space under them needs to be filled with sikaflex 221 and then the corner caps should be taped in place.
Furthermore there doesn't appear to be a trim at the bottom of the windscreen.
There isn't one around the bottom -- rather there is a depression in the fibreglass where the screen fits. Note there are supposed to be 4 plastic spacers evenly spaced round the bottom edge of the screen to maintain sufficient thickness of bonding sealer. If this has not been done and the bonding layer is too thin then the screen may crack under chassis flexing. The Elan may be rigid but it still has flex.
They have used loads of silicone to stick it in place and this is not ne at to say the least, with drips of it evident at the bottom of the windscreen.
The bonding material is specific and is a Sikaflex product though I don't have the number to hand. Also the glass primer is specific and a Sika product.
The pillar that the window sits on is unevenly visible on each side of the car (where the door window rests when fully up). Again they have used black silicone to fill the gaps.
The seals are held in alloy carriers which must be spaced from the alloy A pillars by washers to get the seal in correct alignment with the door window. In general you want more washers at the top of the seal carrier down to 1 or none at the bottom.
Finally (I promise), they have stuck the rear view mirror on in such a way that the white adhesive used to bond it to the glass is visible from the outside
It is possible to black out an area of screen to stop this but I didn't bother. The mirror doesn't fit on the blacked out band.
and the alarm sensor has not been stuck back in the bottom right corner of the screen.
Sounds like a sloppy job.
I'd have some fairly specific questions:
1. What screen bonding material was used?
2. what glass primer was used?
3. Were the 4 plastic spacers used along the front edge of screen?
4. What was used to seal up the rest -- if it isn't Sikaflex 221 then it fails.
5. Were spacing washers used on the alloy seal carriers?
6. Take it to a car wash put the wand onto the top of the roof near the centre front -- do the A pillar seals leak? I wouldn't expect them to seal if you direct a high pressure hose directly onto the window/seal but they should seal in rain.
As you can probably tell I've just done a screen myself. My problem was there was corrosion on the top (matte black) part of the screen support where the hood seal engages and there was corrosion to top & bottom corners of both A pillars under the windscreen but showing through the blacked out band. Additionally I'd replaced the hard-to-obtain A pillar seals about 4 months before so wanted to try to re-use these if possible. So needed to remove seals without damaging them, remove cracked screen, clean up alloy, repaint, had to clean up and paint the alloy seal carriers as well and replaced the rusted spacing washers with stainless ones. Whole job was a bit of a pain -- you can piano wire the top and sides easily but the bottom is very hard without damageing the dashboard. Ended up cutting the bonding with a curved surgical scalpel. Refitting the seals is very much a question of fitting the seal to the carrier and then offering it up to check the seal against the door window and then estimating the washer thickness required to space the carrier from the A pillar. Turned out my 2 sides were different but that is the joy of a hand made car. Top rail is now lovely, think it will be a long time before the alloy A pillars rot and the car now leaks nearly no water.
I could have either paid Autoglass or got the insures to pay but did my first bonded screen because I wanted a good job.
Your main problem now is you want someone experienced to do the screen probably a Lotus agent (which doesn't guarantee a good job) but Autoglass are unlikely to want to pay a Lotus agent the thick end of 1K to fix their mistake. Bear in mind that very few of the materials are reusable, So if the job has to be re-done then you need windscreen, top finisher, 2 X side finishers, 4 bottom edge spacers, correct bonding agent, correct glass primer and also 2 A pillar seals & 2 top corner caps (neither of the last 2 are currently available). It is possible to remove A pillar seals without damaging them but not easy or likely. So you may be able to persuade Autoglass that having a Lotus Agent do the job will work out cheaper than having their numpties do it badly again.
I made a note of the Sika windscreen bonding and primer numbers but they're with the car which has just passed MOT but is still at the garage. I'll post them when I get a chance to collect the car.