Battery Isolator

[hatters]

I keep my Elan in the garage during the week and use it on most weekends ,however something is draining the battery maybe its the alarm.
I want to fit a battery isolator but the only ones I can find are the ones you attach to the battery terminals .That means every time I want to switch it on or off is to lift the roof and the roof stowage cover(you need three hands for this job).can anyone on hear point me in the right direction and recommend a switch that fits somewhere else that's easier to get to and that's relatively easy to install NO MAJOR WIRE CUTTING ?

[Nickydee]

You need something one of those as fitted to competition cars.

http://compare.ebay.co.uk/like/28081791 ... adtype=pla

and one each of these of the required length so no crimping or cutting required.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12-HOBBY-TRAI ... 270wt_1396

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/24-CAR-LIVE-S ... 200wt_1396

Perhaps the easiest place to install it would on the rear bulkhead behind the seats just in front of the battery. If its hidden it could double up as an imobiliser. Care would need to be taken that any exposed terminals/connections are properly insulated and fixed in position to prevent shorting but otherwise relatively easy to do and simple to revert back to original at a later date.
Regards

Nick

[inkitin]

Similar problem for me. Although mine will last at least two to three weeks, despite the alarm drain on the battery. I presume you've checked all the usual suspects?

Like you, I have the manual switch type on the battery pole. What a faff every time I get the car out and put it away!

I found these a little while ago and think I'm going to give one a try. Not sure which one as yet though .

[hatters]

That battery brain looks like a good idea, you can even have one with a remote ,That would appear to be the right way to go
Thanks for that info !!

[inkitin]

I've just this minute spoken to them and ordered one.

I've ordered the RC version at £39.99 (third one from the top) including P&P. He told me that it's all brand new but the packaging for the switch is old style packaging but what's in the box is identical to the new style packaging.

We'll see how it goes then!

[trig]

My car is off the road for the winter so I use a solar 12v charger http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Solar-Powered ... 2c60f82a2a

I also have a isolator switch which stops unwanted battery drain and acts as an anti theft device http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12-VOLT-KIT-C ... %26ps%3D54,

but the above solar charger is far easier to fit , I extended the wires on the solar charger so its fitted permanently on the garage roof

[dapinky]

I just submitted a post, and it's dissapeared

Basically, I was referring to Trigs set-up and mine which does the same, but differently.

Firstly, I have the isolator in the boot (trunk), with the terminals inside the hood (roof) stowage area.

One side is connected to a 10mm bolt (through the fibreglass, NOT touching any metal) with a 6" cable (170amp), which protrudes into the boot area near to the torsion springs. The other goes to the battery positive.
A second cable runs between a second bolt about 12" horizontal from the first one, and the negative side of the battery.

This gives an ideal place to attach jump leads or booster pack if the battery goes flat - much easier than messing under the roof to get to the battery. With this configuration the positive bolt is only positive if the isolator is 'on'.

I also have solar panels, but semi-permanently fitted inside the cars. The ones i got were about a tenner each, and fit nicely on the windsceen at dash level without being too intrusive. When the cars are used more regularly, they simply unplug and go into storage.
One thing to note, if they are to be left in the car when you drive it, they need to be isolated before you start the engine to avoid damage. You can either just unplug it, or do it properly
I fitted a simple switching relay to the fist stage of the ignition switch (that feeds the radio), so that when there is no key in the ignition, the solar panel is connected to the batery (via the wiring loom), when you turn the key the relay operates and disconects the solar panel so no damage is done - all it needs is a 5-pin relay, not a 4-pin, and they are cheap enough on ebay.

[Richard Yates]

I have had a lot of battery problems with my Elan. The car is laid up during the winter and only used occasionally during the summer. I bought a battery from Halfords with a 4 year guarantee and have changed it 3 times as it fails due to the constant running down of charge. I fitted a battery isolator as I thought that would solve the problem but the battery has now failed again. Does anyone have experience of a more user friendly battery that will survive periods of inactivity? - the bloke in Halfords won't talk to me any more!

[Nobby]

I fitted an isolator behind the drivers seat and since fitting had now issues with battery failures.

I have left the car disconnected for over a year, re-connected and the car started no issues, with a good healthy reading on the meter (that's before starting). Hope this feedback helps.

Best wishes
Rob

[DavidEJM]

I use one of those battery savers.

I've had one (optimate4) on my bike for years and i use one (CTEK MXS 3.6) on the Lotus now too. Cost about £45 and it monitors and tops up the charge as necessary, never has a problem now.

[Rice crispy]

+1 for a CTEX, keeps mine topped up