Jeemy's Elan Rebuild

[Jeemy]

Now I don't seem to have taken (camera was low on batteries so I conserved for vital info) any pictures of removal of the top 3 screws under the binnacle (who thinks of these names), and the screws under the blanking plugs.

But once those were removed, the fascia was starting to get kinda free, the Service Manual was busy telling me just to haul it out, and so I started gingerly pulling to work out what points of resistance were left.

First, cigar lighter itself. You can see the light which came out to top, and then a portrait and landscape plug, the centre landscape plug appears to be yellow, hell, thats the least of my worries:

Secondly, something they really should mention in the manual, virtually directly below the two blanked points to L & R of steering wheel, a ~7mm and a philips screw, both with incredibly long reaches, directly under these and facing the floor. No pics as light was failing and I was wondering if I could finish this task within the day, but I note that it might be possible to fit spacers when replacing the bolts and gain a couple of mm of fascia lift?!

Thirdly, something they should DEFINITELY mention in the manual. As per my Vito van, a little gentle prising (again, if I wasn't refinishing the dash, I'd be pissed at the minor damage this causes) took the centre vents out. Behind them, a metal construct which provides support to them and the stereo. Again, a point where I can perhaps tweak the fitment and get a little lift. It fits to a bolt which by this point I had to photograph with the phone as the camera was dead. Its 8mm I think and if you loosen it, the bracket for this construct slides off. I had bent the construct by this point but hell to it, its getting removed, hammer-flattened and put back on to fit my fascia properly. Here it is shown in pink, green arrow shows the unfortunate bending:

More contortions to remove the gathered wires from the plastic retainers. I will be removing these, painting them by hand, before lacquering and replacing*.

Jebus knows what this is, it was only a few hours ago. But up top is a light and down below is the electrical connection, with red to the RHS of the car. I think its the headlight switch:

Next up, the immobiliser activator. Probably because of what it is, this was the first thing ever I eventually had to cut off. It was too dark to see where it went to and while I'd like to get an alarm sorted, I would probably take the tack of hauling out everything, retaining the power cables and fitting something that I was comfortable with. This has never worked during my ownership and there are some blanked off cables protruding from the glovebox that probably explain why. Nonetheless, this wouldn't go through the fascia (I snapped a clip trying, so I am going to need to plug this unfortunate badly drilled hole ><), followed the usual format of light on top, +ve and ground, so I snipped the long black cable right by the piece, and pulled it:

There's no point in boring you with the two pics of the back of the climate controls, all the vacuum hoses were loose. but thankfully numbered by Lotus, or the kind person/idiot who has mounted 3 of them with a T-bar to the vacuum delay piece - there's only 2 connections to the back of the allocation dial. I will keep the photos in case I struggle, but more important (as the fascia came out and rotated so I could access them) was the 3 dials - oil, boost, and battery.

I took this photo to remember where everything went:

Then loosened each of the 7mm or so nuts, pulled the brackets, pushed the dials away so I could grab them from the other side, pulled the wires, and oh my god:

Fascia is out, and I can see the heater I want to get to. Tomorrow, I'll mark all the wires carefully, push them out the way and try to get to that. Technically (!) after that its just the spark plug cables and distributor to remove and then I am ready to clean it all up and replace the gear cable system!

*not really

[whippit]

Going back to page 6, How the f in hell did you get the turbo nuts off without threading the studs, even with your fancy

With my new ratchet spanners finally in hand, the 3 bolts holding on the manifold came off easily enough:

have lotus lost there touch with wrecking the the studs ,
nice work though ,
i rebuilt my rear suspension exactly as you did, but i'm still useless at posting pics, think i need to pull my finger out and get some work done this winter,
your progress puts me to shame

[Jeemy]

Lol. I got the 3 bolts off, but the manifold is still firmly attached to the turbo. I'd assumed gravity would cause some major calamity as the turbo lifted out and watched patiently for the manifold sliding off and descending majestically back to the engine bay, wrecking everything......but was sadly disappointed.

So its still on the studs attached to the turbo. I'm going to empty all my sports equipment out of the van for winter and load in all my tools and parts including the turbo, and have at it this weekend. Dave's PDF on rebuilding the turbo seems to show a 4th bolt. When I finally lifted it out it was pitch black so I just put it somewhere safe, so this is probably it.

In fact, looking at P6, I see you told me:

the only way to remove the inner one is with the turbo off

I'll hopefully be grabbing the turbo to take home today which will be my last day on the car itself til next week due to family commitments. Although hopefully I can do some sandblasting in the back of the van, and dismantle and port the turbo in the shed (which is pretty much open to the elements, so no change there).

Removal of the studs themselves is a different matter. They are going to have to come out and I'm not sure how - molegrips? Turbo in a vice? That I would need to do at work; the vice is bolted to a workbench (well, old table).

[Jeemy]

By the way the spanners were Beta, they come in a set of 8/10/12/13 on one, and 15/16/17/18 on the other I think. From memory, 14mm was what I needed so I ended up buying a Half*rds one which I initially didn't trust but as the guy told me, all the stuff from the locked cabinets is called Halfrauds Professional and is lifetime guaranteed. So I doused them in Plusgas 3 days in a row (more by virtue of not being able to move them 3 days in a row than any kind of workflow management) and then put the spanner on them and hit it with a hammer to break them. The whole removal was pretty much hammer assisted.

[Jeemy]

Minor setback today. The Service Manual says that if I want to remove the heater unit itself, I need to take the main fascia out.

At present I am not sure whether I wish to do this. The unit is good, and although it is unclear whether its buckled upwards or whether the fascia mask wasn't fitted correctly. Somebody mentioned earlier in the thread, that there are brackets which help the fascia mask locate snugly to the main fascia, well, I could only see one of these on the RHS of the instrument cluster (its above the cluster where the worst of it is, but its all-round not very good), so its possible I will either need to fabricate missing replacements, or copy the idea and create new supports to line it up better.

If I removed the main fascia, its unclear whether I could pull down the top edge anyway. The area outlined in red is what seems to be somewhat buckled outwards all round. I was thinking perhaps of inserting metal pins into the foam to alter its shape, or heat-treating it and trying to bend it back - its pretty brittle stuff on the fascia mask so with this, I am not sure. If I attempted something like this, I'd need to be prepared to refinish the entire console. I actually had a quote for this of £650 for leather. If I DID do it, I could do the whole console in dark brown, and the centre console. This would be AMAZING and as far as I know, completely unique. But the cost, jesus. I had a quick look for vinyl sheets (I was told there would be a problem getting it to stick/stay stuck) and vehicle wrap sheets seem to come in a 60cm width - not enough, @ £30 a sheet. So even if I could find larger or wider sheets, I'd still have all the effort of trying to do it by hand with something that I've been advised (albeit with a benefit to the adviser) would not work well anyway. So I might end up having to go the leather route if I tried to go the handmade route and failed.

Looking at this diagram, its not actually much that needs to be removed. The demist vent screws are all rusted and I'll want those cleaned up, so they'd be coming out anyway. So perhaps I should try to remove this.

The whole point of this exercise was to clean the rusty heater coolant pipes only; and like everything else its expanding massively and I need to be prudent. They are very hard to access behind the engine but perhaps I could rig up some kind of board across the car so I could lean in and clean them. I kind of wanted to check they hadn't been damaged or bent pulling off the old hoses either…...

Equally, if I remove the fascia, I can work on the fitment of the fascia to fascia mask, and work from the back, rig up any additional fitments I'll need to bring them into line, and perhaps even correct the curled lower edges of the main fascia (i was going to cover them with the trim strips from Woolies, and will probably still do this as it will be a neater edge).

So I guess I am going to have to think about this one over the weekend. Comments gratefully received if anybody has any experience on this or thoughts as to how I should proceed.

[epipete]

Jeemy, the dash comes out quite easily, the side vents are accessed via a long screw driver from above, the 5 screws for the windscreen vents are a bitch as the angle is all wrong and fouled by the glass, once the side vents are out you can undo the side bolts via the holes, there is a nut connecting to the crash structure behind and above the glovebox and I think that's it as fare as fastenings go. With both doors open you can then straddle the transmission tunnel and lift the dash clear.

You can then reassemble the fascis to the dash prior to to reinstalling.

The heater comes out very easily and is documented in the manual, the metal pipes you refer to are welded to the heater matrix and are copper so rust should be minimal, if not then is it indicitive of the state of the matrix? If you get this far than it owen it is worth replacing all the vacuum hoses with new silicon, similiarly this is the time to check your O2 wiring!
Honestly, allowing for the learning curve it is not that difficult or time consumming.

Pete

Ps SW lotus were doing a good price on new dashboards a couple of years ago, but if you buy make them open it up and check it over before they post it as I bought one from them that was deformed when I received it!

[Jeemy]

Just what I wanted to hear. I am close enough, I should do it.

And then, I can work on the fitment and if it is not right, maybe a new dash - or try to have the old one covered at the same time as a repair.

Trouble is, you'd then need to recover all the parts on the doors, the sill covers, the B-pillar posts, and the centre console. Thats a LOT of leather. Sadly, I don't think I can afford it; I am worried I will actually be able to afford the basic refinishing and spray; all of that is contingent on me selling the old van engine, gearbox, wheels from my Audi, other parts - there's no *real* money left in the budget. The real money went on the short shift kit and exhaust; I hadn't even heard of the former and the latter was an unexpected problem; the seller told me that it had a nice exhaust and pointed me at the silencer, I guess there's no harm in revealing I paid £2,650 for the car and therefore was expecting to "get what I got". The fact it drove all the way back from London without incident kept me happy enough until I got underneath…...

I'll tot up what I estimate to get and get a firm quotation while its out, but I don't think the two figures will marry up somehow!

I have a new Samco set so all the hoses for coolant are being replaced, I guess I should look into getting new vacuum hoses from SJ or somewhere, and when you say the O2 wiring - you mean the setup of the vacuum lines and whether they are wired correctly? From memory the 5-way plug that goes into the air direction dial only had 2 hoses plugged in, the other 2 were jointed by a little green T-bar going to the vacuum delay unit, and that was what was disconnected entirely. So yes I'll check those against the manual - there may be some reason why they were disconnected and jointed but I will ascertain that soon I guess!

[Jeemy]

No more work completed today. While I deliberated on the dash removal, which I have now decided to do - refinishing is being contemplated - I spent a wasted 40 minutes (well, at least I know the manual layouts better) researching removal of the plug leads, before deciding just to go and have a pull - they are pushfit.

I will not take them off yet I think, as they provide some protection for ingress of water. Likewise, the heater ports provide protection from ingress of water to the cockpit.

I don't know if there was water leaking or getting through there, or if its explained by the fact the shower cap was pulled up on the nearside window this morning; but there was water pooling in the base of the passenger footwell, closer to the centre than to the edge. The car may be on an angle, I'll need to check with a spirit level. Hopefully this is simply related to the window which I know leaks down off the sill.

But its possible the heater has something to do with this.

Anyway, rough plan for the next few days is to try and load my compressor, sandblasting cabinet and tools into the van, get the turbo taken to pieces, bored out, and sandblast the heatshields and manifold.

The next day spent on the car will be giving the engine as good as clean as I possibly can, before removing the main dash, heater, and spark plug leads. At this point, once the heater is cleaned and replaced, I will be onto the gear cable changeover, before rebuilding the coolant system, spraying the bottom, completing the rust treatment to the injection points and putting the turbo and exhaust back in.

I'll take your advice and rebuild the vacuum system too - what pipe should I get? Can't see anything relevant on SJ's - is it just an appropriate mm generic silicon hose for car vacuum systems?

[epipete]

Do a search on 'Kolorbond' haven't yet tried it but it might be the cheap(er) solution to recolouring/refurb of the vinyl bits.

Didn't intend to confuse re the O2 and vacuum hoses issue. 2 separate things! One with the dash out you can more easily access the wiring for your O2 sensor; ie you can trace the wiring back from the turbo housing, through the wheel arch, back into the cabin and along the bulkhead to the ECU and rewire as necessary. Two the vacuum hoses issue relates entirely to the heating I have an extensive thread on my problems somewhere here recently which may help you, but you may wish to replace all of the hoses, from the Plenum to the vacuum reservoir (nr side wheel arch) and back out again along the bulkhead (engine side) through the cabin to the heater unit, and then the hoses relating to the various flaps etc from he unit. About 4mtrs of 3mm silicon hose iirc should do it and you can match the colour to your Samco hoses - not that you'll ever see it again I used Ramair (based in Pewsey, Wilts) on eBay, not expensive and a quick postage.

Pete

[Jeemy]

Brilliant brilliant brilliant. Theres that other link possibly Vinylkote I posted up as well to consider for the vinyl. But I have a plan. More later on that, waiting for a response. It doesn't phase me now pulling the vacuum pipes and replacing. I'm documenting everything carefully, and I have the manuals and you guys to refer to every time I make a move. The dash is coming out for definite, what will happen to it is undecided. I will make seperate threads in the right areas to confirm the issues I have and cross-document to here.

I will check your thread to confirm on the hose type. Its very exciting, even with you throwing up (!) the vacuum hose change, I can see I am about 10 hours away max from being able to start putting things back.

I hope very much to have the coolant, vacuum systems, the underbody coating, the underbody detailing, the fixes to the fascia and dash, all done before I close up for Christmas which I will probably do Thu 20th, and have the car at the bodyshop for paint before then, so it will be home and painted for XMas and I can work on it on the street.

One problem I haven't quite planned round, is if I do end up recovering the dash, I'll have to put it in, and all the dials, to drive it to the bodyshop, and then take it all out again….I am still very unclear on what a respray will involve with a soft-top car; I'd prefer the hood to be left in and the windscreen covered, which he must do anyway for every car from the outside at least.

Getting the dash out will give me access to the nasty point in the sealant under the windscreen so I can work out whats going on there. I would guess simply wrapping a tarpaulin around the dash will get me enough protection to already-masked dials and fitments and I am going to have to rebuild the dash, spray, then unbuild it again. This will at least give me an excuse to test everything in place. There's no way round this contradiction in needs - the car couldn't be sprayed until the engine and underside work was done, I'd risk the paintwork. The interior can't be dealt with until the spray job is complete - I can't risk the overspray to the interior. So its on again, off again for a few parts I fear. Ho hum. The results will be worth it and I intend to have the car on the road for March/Spring.

[Jeemy]

On Friday, I packed my compressor into the van:

I'd packed it into the van with my sandblasting cabinet purchased a while back and never opened which looks great apart from a wee crack in the glass; I don't think this will affect its airtightness but its a bit annoying, its probably too late to complain but I shall try:

But my plans to sandblast happily all weekend were nixed by the fact the compressor had no oil. I've only used it for 30 minutes total!

So I'd brought the turbo home with me and decided to proceed to try and get it ported.

Removing the final 14mm stud to the wastegate manifold, it came off pretty easily.

I decided to try and remove as much as I can; the pictures here show the fans out before porting. I'm not sure how much I need to remove, but the new Piper kit has replacement studs, and so I definitely need to get those off.

First I pulled the little pipe, I can't remember what it feeds, oil probably:

I doused everything in PlusGas before continuing.

Then I managed to remove the heatshield bolt I could never access with enough torque - maybe I'll do this in reverse order when I put it back together, maybe it won't need much access or torque to go back on. Probably the former:

12mm I think

Next, the wastegate actuator. I want to give this a good clean but am unsure if getting sanding particles inside it is particularly a good idea, and it has an airhole in it. The C clip which I'd seen referred to in Dave Pink's writeups and just not understood, now made sense and I pushed it out with a screwdriver, gently:

Then the actuator arm had to be removed from the wastegate control rod; this ended up being done by placing a rubber screwdriver handle over it and gently tapping the screwdriver with a hammer:

Both the wastegate pivot and the actuator arm seem to move cleanly, respectively very loose and under decent hand pressure which I guess is good news.

The whole wastegate actuator assembly then came off pretty easily with a 10mm 1/4" ratchet, I think it says 8 on the bolts!?

Finally I removed the first of the bolts to the little pipe arrowed in pink. The manifold bolts I could access in green aren't too hard to remove:

But this leaves the studs coming out of the wastegate area; and I need the manifold to brace against to try and remove them. This, I cannot do:

These are a nightmare. I've tried heating them with a tiny little butane torch but I am wondering if thats enough heat. I've doused them with PlusGas and will continue to do all weekend.

The only place I could grip with plumbers' pliers was the threads and I don't want to do too much of this in case the solution is to thread 2 bolts back onto them. I don't have the appropriate bolts here, and I don't own mole grips.

I've done a bit of research and there are 1-ton pressure vice grip pliers out there apparently. Anybody got any tips on removal of these? I'm looking at Irwin Vise Grip. I believe you also can cut a notch in the head and try a flat-head screwdriver.

Any help gratefully received.

[cliff]

Jeemy,

I think you should have new studs in the Piper kit so you don't have to be too gentle.

For the old studs, try using 2 nuts. If the threads are any good, run 2 nuts down them, tighten them together then undo the bottom nut. With luck the stud will come with it. This makes it a bit clearer:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=66ATKL4G04M

If not then a try stud removal tool or pick up some good mole grips (always worth having - especially when you come to rebuild the suspension).

[dapinky]

Jamie,

the studs are basically scrap now anyway so don't worry about mullering them - another Lotus 'clever' design.....

....the nuts are a Kaynut design which have a strange thread system - best described (or at least the way i can understand it) as a non-round profile, being a slight oval with a 'toothed ratchet' on the thread....

...as such, they do up with a reasonable effort, but are a bugger to undo, and will damage (or probably destroy) the thread on both nuts and studs when removed (but that is their design - they aint meant to shake loose! The nuts shouldn't be re-used as they will have lost their 'strength' when undoing them, and will not hold as well as even a standard plain nut.

I got the broken studs out by welding a piece of scrap steel to the longest one towards the end (at 90 degrees to it), allow the weld to cool then use the metal bar as a handle to unwind the stud!

If you attach it to the shorter stud first then the long one gets in the way when you try and unscrew it and you have to cut it off short with an angle grinder and unscrew it. Quite easy really, and the heat from welding helps to release the stud from the cast iron.

The thread in the wastegate body is a standard M8 thread, so you should be able to replace the studs with either a proper part, a stainless steel replacement, a bolt (or 4!) or even just a length of M8 threaded bar with a plain nut and spring washer on it. I have done all 4 at various times, and the easiest to do was use a piece of M8 bar with plain nuts - i did it as a temporary measure on my blue car until the stainless studs arrived - 4 years later, i still havent got round to replacing them, and it's still going strong!

When you say that some bolts have a number 8 on them, this refers to the material strength (tensile) of the bolt, not the size of the spanner you need to apply to it.

[Jeemy]

Weather is foul, so I did some inside work.

I bought a set of Clarke stud removers from Machine Mart for £20 - these are brilliant and mounted to the breaker bar, I managed to remove 3 studs and only snap 1 off!

Pink arrow shows sheared stud

The green arrow shows the last of the bolts and studs that held the turbo onto the exhaust. This was murder to get apart. I had to stand on either side of the exhaust manifold, mount a spanner to it and hit it with a hammer. Eventually it came off but as the nut is firmly locked onto it its going to have to be cut off and new ones purchased from SJ's.

So the manifold is ready to sandblast, the turbo is ready to port. After a 14-hour working day following by a band practice, followed by a few pints, and then get up at 6 and drop wee one at nursery this morning, followed by a massive swim, I thought I'd be up for some more work, it was a real surprise when I was too tired to do anything! But in fact there were people using my room at the studio, weather was perfect for spraying the underside but there was no time, and I ended up just giving up with insufficient time to accomplish anything real today, and decided to do some real work instead, and then sit down and rework my lotus plan tonight:

So of course I have questions:

1) can I just port now? The wiki shows the fan (visible in my top pic of this post) removed but doesn't say how, dave's rebuild writeup shows the porting being done at just this stage with the fan still on.

I'm worried all the dust and particles from the porting will clog the mechanism. Maybe you just wash it all out with oil afterwards, so it isn't harmful to get some debris inside the turbo mechanism as long as you wash it out with oil. If this is true, I will clean up the outside too!

2) Should I rebuild? I would rather not but at 127k unloved miles, maybe I should while the turbo is off.

[Jeemy]

Another disastrous day; perfect weather so I intended to mask and spray the underside. But fate conspired against me; my creeper trolley has been lost or stolen at work.

I decided to try and work out how to remove the power steering hoses (couldn't without the trolley) and start on the cleanup of the engine bay; it will need detailed and painted before the parts go back in anyway.

I started with the top of the gearbox as you can see in this photo its manky. The photos really show up the rust.

After 2 hours firstly scrubbing Tardis on with a sponge scourer, then using a detailing brush to work round the mount for whatever the cable goes into, the thing it pulls, the top of the gearbox and the bracket below, (2.5 hours work) it was starting to look like this:

This is just a bulk clean and photos to show me where I need to go over; I'll need to get the fine detail with a fibreglass pencil, toothbrushes, whatever I can to get round the edges of the bolts and seams and corners….

I used the Tardis to work round the arms that pull the headlights up, they came up OK but they are not going to be brightwork and unfortunately it looks like the plating is coming away so all I can do is get them as clean as possible and either paint them or just leave them. I removed the cable that was held in by the plastic clip just visible under the black wires, this appears to go to one of the blue solenoids where others' engines have 2, I just have 1. You can see the black plug that relates to this, I'll need to look it up in the manual. General grime, gunk, rust and misfortune visible everywhere:

The other side didn't even come up as well, there is corrosion evident over the grey vinyl-painted parts, and the headlight brackets:

Onto the front of the engine block, I think this is after one going over on the left hand side. You can see the gunk built up on the right and on the prongeron (I'm going to scrape this with a kitchen knife!)

This is the best photo I could take, you can see its going to need more cleaning, and the photo shows me where. But the core plugs are coming up nicely, and it should clean enough to paint with a few more applications - my plan is to paint POR15 black over everything below this line, then use the old gasket as a mask for the manifold outlets, and paint with a brush silver up to the cam cover. You can see some metal filings where I had to hacksaw a bolt inside the manifold outlets; these will need a clean and I am not sure how to yet:

I worked on round the gearbox again and some of the bolts and mounts below the DIS, together with the housing for what I've now realized is the mass damper for the clutch cable (you can see the protective sleeve is worn/missing at both ends; I will need to rectify this and its noted as an SJ item for my next parts order); this is as far as I can get without finer tools or grinders. I am planning on some kind of hoover/sanding approach to minimise ingress to any moving/critical parts, but I want her CLEAN:

As darkness set in, the clutch lever got nice and clean. I still need to work round the bolts. The bracket below it is now clean and ready to paint although it still seems to have some old coating on it; hell, if it won't wash off, its good enough to stick new coating to. This is a candidate for POR15:

[Jeemy]

As it was dark and I had limited time, I went round the edges of the engine bay with spit and tissue on the badges, and washing up liquid on the fibreglass, just to get me that stage cleaner so I can see what needs going at with a cotton bud.

The metal parts here will need my hoover/sand approach. So I did the front of the clamshell:

In around the EGR and EECS (what is EECS and why do I not have it) solenoids - plenty finer cleaning to do here - I also did the headlight control modules and the badge; There is black stuff on the badge which will slowly come off with a fingernail and spit. I'll need to reglue the badge edges and will use clear epoxy for this…..

Round the RHS bonnet mounting; I am going to flip the brackets for the gas struts to go above the originals partly for bling, partly to lower the bonnet back to profile, and there is tons of dirt needing a finer approach here:

Round to the LHS and there is just tons and tons of finework evident in the photos. You can see the green just appearing on the copper bolt; this is the last time I'll be using water in the engine bay……

Its a damn sight better than it was, but there are loads of heavier dirt spots which will need the cotton bud and Tardis, I am pleased with how the power steering fluid badge came up; all the badges are great, its just a ton of finework and the photos make it obvious where:

I did some work on the side of the timing belt cover, but am not happy. There is water still drying on it, but you can clearly see the top has original coating on, whereas the heat grooves its peeled off. I hope this will be something I can remove, spray and replace while cleaning the bolts. Plenum chamber is looking not too shabby on the top in this light:

I did the end of the DIS cap and again this will not come up right just with cleaning, it will need a refinish:

Finally I worked around the edges of the bonnet just pulling out the first stage of grit, gunk and grime. Its actually come up amazing although thats half the light. There are a LOT of dark marks on the interior red paint; whether ingrained oil or failure of the clearcoat and it taking in dirt I am not sure. Longtermly these will get a very fine sand to reduce the darkening, and then a wax to protect them or a coat of spray lacquer if I can risk it.

The problem with the bonnet will be the heat foam. Its old, perishing and tatty.

My plan is to use Protectakote on it; this is a textured rubberised paint. Its very good at filling gaps, waterproofing, and looks great when finished. But putting it on there would have to be by brush, and I've seen somebody's car with a silver covering or replacement foam.

I'd appreciate any assistance on that, and also guys sorry to be a pest but I can't port the turbo unless somebody can clarify for me whether I have to remove anything further. The compressor fan is still in there, and I am worried about particles but presuming I can rinse the whole thing with oil, sieve the oil and do so a second time, but I could really do with an answer because tomorrow is my last day near the car and to keep things moving, I'll take home what I can accomplish off-car, and maybe I could get the turbo ported this weekend?

Cheers,

Jeemy

[epipete]

Jeemy,

Check out: viewtopic.php?f=44&t=12044&start=160&hilit=Bonnet

Pete

[Brit-Car-Nut]

[quote = "Jeemy"] The problem with the bonnet will be the heat foam. Its old, perishing and tatty. [/quote]

Pete / Jeemy: if that link was supposed to provide the under bonnet heat shields with logo, it doesn't work anymore. Try http://www.classic9leathershop.com/Hood ... ields.html

Scroll down the page. They have it in 1/4" with logo for $69.00 and 1/2" with logo for $99.00

Little British Car Company in the US has the 1/4" version with logo for $50.00 Look here: http://www.lbcarco.com/cgi-bin/gen5?run ... html&o=&a=

Scroll down to the bottom. They have logos in red, yellow and silver.

Postage from the US might be a bit, but...

[epipete]

$50 is a steal, isn't it? In fact $100 is pretty good must be about £65 to £70 sterling!

[Brit-Car-Nut]

$50 is a steal, isn't it? In fact $100 is pretty good must be about £65 to £70 sterling!

$50.00 = £30 and $100.00 = £60 sterling at $1.66 per pound (includes bank and credit card fees)