Jeemy's Elan Rebuild

[lottus77]

Hey there, where did you get the black/tinted rear lights from?

Also what size are the wheels?

Thanks

[Jeemy]

Hi,

The lights are as supplied AFAIK. If they are tinted, then its aftermarket.

I have a brand new spare for the cracked nearside, and its dark as well - I have not put them side-by-side.

Cheapo 'smoke' paint from eBay claims to be road legal - I've used this with good effect on my Merc van, and faking up Audi black edition lights for people from existing VAG blanks.

As ever, spray off the vehicle. The best way with this stuff is to go to 5-6 very light coats. Use polish on the lamp first, then use IPA 30 mins before spray - then when you are 5-6 coats down (go darker than you want them to end up), and you've given it 72+ hours to cure, use T-cut to clarify and take back to the level you want - use a decent quality foam pad followed by a microweave cloth I think they are called, the glass polishing type. Once at the level you want, a further 24-48 hours for the surface to cure and then Gtechniq Exo2 is the best thing to seal it up.

The wheels are 17". They sit too far away in the arches but I will fix this when the suspension is in. They are being replaced by very similar wheels, so they are for sale - I should have the new wheels powdercoated and ready early next week, but may not be able to do the swap for slightly longer. They currently have crappy mixed tyres (Sunfull is one I remember, Calisto or something is another) on them, I have a set of 4 Kumho tyres that have plenty tread on but these are not checked professionally yet - they will be before sale.

James (GoM100Go) has declined the sale so they are available for £200 as-is with existing tyres, cleaned. £300 with Kumhos, or sprayed as blanks - £400 with Kumhos, sprayed and fitted.

£400 ground and filled to neat condition, powdercoated any colour and supplied blank.

£500 with Kumhos powdercoated. £740 sprayed, fitted with Goodyear Eagle F1 Asymmetric A2 tyres (215/45 new and balanced). £900 ground and filled to neat, powdercoated any colour, and fitted with the Goodyears or any other premium tyre to be quoted. These are ex shipping or collection price.

[Jeemy]

Vacuum hoses arrived!

I installed the new actuator in the engine bay, and connected the T-joint to it; this goes to the wrong place in this pic - it should actually come out of the thermostat housing:

The pipe from this comes to the water valve microswitch:

I grabbed my labelling machine, a pair of scissors and the diagrams from the service manual and got to work matching lengths and retracing the vacuum wires; in the hope of ending up back at this kind of layout. It was quite funny, I sat in the car to do this and my assistant and staff were all wondering where I was, they even came outside but nobody thought I'd actually be INSIDE the car for once, haha:

What you can see here is the unnecessary T-joint thats been spliced in to blank off a number of the functions, presumably a bodge job like everything else to cover the fact the reservoir was disconnected. Everything seems to work flaps-wise so I have removed this and gone back to original wiring.

I took some other photos of this arrangement which will be on the master set if anybody requests it, but multiple views aren't that interesting!

The other connection from the microswitch leads off to the T-joint:

And then to number 2 on the control unit:

You can see the state of my hands after 6-7 solid days of pulling out hoses, and fighting with intercoolers and wheel arches:

Number 5 then goes to the white side of the vacuum delay valve:

Not pictured: me discovering I hadn't actually broken the climate control rod at all, but disconnected it from its clip. I don't know what I did with the old one, but I elected to put the new one into its clip later once the switches are in place so I can set it exactly right. There will be JUST enough room.

5 continues on to a solenoid:

Which returns to number 3:

I used the right angle joint from the previous pipe 1:

[Jeemy]

And back on went the heater! It took a lot of finagling but I got it in there eventually. I wish I had not got the 2 lower wires from the water valve coming out from underneath but everything seems unimpeded and I don't want to put any further undue stress on the rear pipework:

Back on went the electrical clip thing:

And then I fitted in the two bolts at the top. I couldn't get the electrical clip at the other side back on and get the thread to grip so I stuck it in a similar position on the other side with a wee screw into the top arm.

I fitted the bracket in loosely - the 25mm bolts are the lower and 16mm the top - took quite some time to find it in the manual, its in the Chassis section:

The small screw connecting to the heater is angled quite far downwards at the moment; the heater needs raised with quite a lot of force at the front...... I am very tired and looking after my son today so I decided not to force it and left things here for the weekend.

NB I won't be putting any of the cable ties in yet, as the dash will come off a second time after the respray. So if there are any problems, they are quick to fix and also, I can see what needs neatening to ensure the dash fits on neatly and doesn't crush anything.

So my final question for the weekend - is this connector behind the steering wheel column, the one I need to examine to ascertain if I have the O2 wiring built in already? It comes out from the wheel arch.

[Jeemy]

Scratch that, its obviously not. I can see they are actually inside the wheel-arch from the pics here:

viewtopic.php?f=37&t=21675&p=272851&hilit=RHFHC#p272851

Oh well, I need to get the other side arch off anyway, and I am pretty confident to do it now after the practice on the other one......

[Jeemy]

Working away at this every day, I can see an end to it, I think…..weather is all that is holding me up this week.

Next is to complete the detailing and checking of the electrics. I started with the large yellow plugs; began by taking photos and then decided to take video of the wire arrangement:

To disassemble these you need to prise out the yellow primary retainer:

Then each of the pins as you can see here has a little black tab above it. Insert a flathead precision screwdriver and lift the tab away from the pin, then pull it out:

The next connector has a little clip inside it as the primary retainer:

Its a standard weatherpack so an old TV aerial or a terminal extraction tool will get the two pins out, pic here shows how they connect back:

Then this one, same:

Secondary reminder of how the wires go together with the extraction tool:

Then the connector for the EGR solenoid. I used the defunct EECS wiring as a tester as I'd never seen these connectors before, the pins remove by pushing a flat-head precision screwdriver straight into the pin body. I took this opportunity to pin back and curtail the EECS wiring so it won't be visible on rebuild:

This is a reminder of how those wires go back. Also a reminder if you are doing this, to get the pins out of the little rubber 90 degree sleeve, do one at a time! I broke mine, luckly the EECS provides a spare:

Rain kicked in but I already had my measurements from the conduit test fit, so I used a mitre saw with a multipurpose blade to start cutting my taped lengths of stainless braid:

[Jeemy]

High winds Tuesday, so I dropped the car onto axle stands and had a PIG of a day getting the nearside wheel arch liner removed. All but one bolt had to be drilled out and there was a lot of grinding, hitting with a chisel, and prising to do before I finally got access to the liner - lo and behold, more rust:

It was now beating with rain as well, and I'm just more confused about the O2 sensor wiring. There isn't a harness in the wheel arch liner, this photo is taken from the rear of the arch looking back. So I need to look up more of this or ask for help:

But as the arches themselves are sheltered from the rain I decided just to grit my teeth and finish them off. Usual drill, wire brush + Tardis, spritz with G101, mop down, dry with paper towels, brush on rust treatment, keep brushing it on for 30 mins, wipe off with a cloth, and brush on a final coat & leave to dry for 30 mins, putting ML inside with the compressor while it dries, takes me from this (treated):

To this (first coat):

I tried to put my Oz wheel on but its the bloody wrong size, he sold them me as 4 x 100, and they are 4 x 105. So different wheels for me…….

This is the offside arch mid-treatment. Its a lot dirtier and a lot less rusty:

Not pictured are a further 4 hours of swapping from side to side on the car treating both arches the same, and with 2 coats of POR15. I left the bolts and will spray 4147 over any hard to reach areas when I find my aerosol.

At the end of the night the sun came out, typical, so I did a more enjoyable job; drilling out the ends of silicon caps:

To fit them over my now-taped wiring harnesses:

And thread on stainless steel braid I've precut:

Finishing with another cap. My hope is that when I put down the covers for the split cables it will neatly push into the silicon cap:

[Jeemy]

This morning I intended just to get on with normal work as yesterday was a 10-hour marathon.

However the sun popped out so I fitted the bracket & heater properly (this took a LOT of force and I did not enjoy it):

Refitted the fusebox mount & radio brace:

And clipped the fusebox in to the RHS of the brace, before putting the bolt back in on the left:

Re-attached the bolt on the electrics & put the covers back:

Note that the radio wiring threads through the bracket, as shown on the left of this pic. I forgot to do this but pulled the yellow plug and reconnected it on the other side fairly easily. I don't like disconnected old plugs unless I have to as they have a habit of breaking. So this left me with the stereo wires which I should be able to access through the stereo slot, and check whether the red already-spliced wire is an ignition activated 12v key:

Back to the engine bay, and my stainless braid just fits into the old retainers:

I put some conduit on a cable I was going to lose access to:

And got the Samco hose from the heater lower pipe on, leaving a set of 3 ready to cable-clip:

Few more hoses went on but I had to do a bit of research and then the rain started leaving no time for more photos. I'll try and work on the O2 wiring overnight and hope for better tomorrow…...

[Jeemy]

Inside work as its beating it down. I'd pushed in some metal wire to give the dash some stability before fibreglassing. One piece hadn't worked so I did 2 pieces and also fibreglassed the broken air blower casing/duct. Retrospectively I wished I'd used a big washer on the back of this to spread the load, but ho hum, its in.

And suddenly it was sunny!

In went the top heater vents:

I didn't use cable clips on anything yet as the dash is only going back on very temporarily. Centre vents were pretty obvious referencing my photos back:

Spent an unpleasant hour trying to fit the airbox back on, the original M6 bolts must have been 15-16mm but they left it as wobbly as before, so I cut new bolts down to 10mm and got it on nice & steady! I also fitted a K&N air filter which I still need to oil. I'd plastidipped the old box just to make it look a bit neater.

Refitted the clutch:

Replaced the grommet on the air pipe:

[Jeemy]

Replaced the rubber seals on the air blower gasket:

And then spent a good 2 hours trying to get the bloody thing back in. Eventually after removing more conduit I got the air blower in, and then the final piece of ducting:

Shortly afterwards, the dash went in! I spent a bit of time checking I'd got all the conduits and clips in the right place and still had a few forgetful moments but its starting to look like a car again!

I spent the rest of the evening assembling the fascia for a test fit on Monday, when hopefully my final parts arrive.

[Jeemy]

Getting close to the end and rebuilding the electric system, I tried to split up the wires leading to the DIS, removing the tape & cleaning with Sticky Stuff remover, followed by Meguiars Engine Cleaner:

I started making detailed photos and notes of how the cables were wired up:

And pulling the cable retainers and waterproofing jointers for dismantling:

It then transpired these were Metri-pack Pull to Seat connectors; as you can see there are two tabs; the cable comes through, is crimped onto the connector, and you pull it back in to seat, the front one locks it into place. There is no easy way to take them out backwards, and uncrimping the cables is a bridge too far. I am looking to improve things, not make them more shaky. I dropped a blob of solder on each crimp and shoved them back in.

Sprayed ACF-50 into the DIS cable retainers which are 3,6,2-pin respectively viewed from the drivers side:

And mounted the outer 2 with conduit. There is no point in cleaning these, the inside is clean enough and they are totally covered by the tank.

The inner 6-pin connector comes out of the larger connector blocks which I CAN dismantle easily, so I can slide a nicer sleeve down onto this once I break those blocks - which I am not doing until I successfully reassemble the first set:

[Jeemy]

I ground off as much as I could off the corrosion of the earth mount under the coolant tank at the washer, bolt and wall, and coated in ACF-50:

This allowed me to thread through the lower hose and get the coolant tank back on:

Next was the big hose from the thermostat lower to the radiator top:

This threads through past the water pump to another outlet post the front pickup:

The first hose I ever removed went back on!

Thats all I can do on the engine. Theres a couple of silicon overwraps to come to get the electricals back together, the EGR and airbox feeds to go back on, and the clutch cable and throttle cable to reconnect.

So as the rain started, I went to start rebuilding the turbo.

Studs onto the manifold, with no particular torque just now, but some Copaslip. I'll torque them close to the factory settings before torquing to full once the gasket is on.

Not fully understanding this, I went onto the electrical connector retainers, which I've had soaking in G101 for almost a week - they've cleaned up perfect after a little rub with a toothbrush:

[hatters]

You have nothing but my UTMOST admiration for being able to sort out such a complete labyrinth of hoses/wires etc., I wouldn't have a clue where to start
Well done

[Jeemy]

Thanks man. Its VERY slow going. But its the first time I have ever done anything like this, so I am learning what each and every part is called. Thank god for my photos. I'm presently trying to fathom how I put the fascia back on. Even with as many as I took often just a random photo here and there gives me the clue I need. All I did was photo WHAT I removed; when I should have detailed HOW I removed it or more pertinently, what it connected to and how it would reconnect. Just a running commentary on what I took off is no good to me here!

[Jeemy]

Don't have time to post the full lot yet, but:

So excited.

[cliff]

Well done, it's a great feeling when you can finally see the light at the end of the tunnel.

[Steve A]

It's been amazing

[Jeemy]

Haha, it is in no way finished. But it is past halfway, for DEFINITE this time! The dash will be back out, then the seats, dash, fascia, wheel, etc will be retrimmed.

I've decided to wait until the respray to do the cam cover and have it done with the same paint.

After that, there are roll cages to go in, all-new suspension, all-new brakes, chip, O2 sensor and conversion to closed loop, subwoofers in custom enclosures, rebuilding of the doors, soundproofing/treatment of the cockpit, custom build to the doors to fit all the speakers in, halo lights, DLRs, LED lighting in the cockpit, Oz Ultraleggera gold wheels, Goodyear tyres, arch treatment & rebuild, new back lights, new carpets, bling kit for bolts, more carbon wraps, heated seats; all sorts of things. Including what James at Amber tells me is the first induction/ancillary/turbo hose kit to be delivered in the UK after the test kit. 4 weeks to that and realistically I can't see me fitting any more under-car parts after the exhaust until next year. A lot of this may end up waiting until the winter, when I hope to have a garage to work in. I want to drive this car! Not to mention the work needed on straightening, weighting, tracking, alignment and camber adjustments but somebody else will do all that for me.....

And including my stereo - the first thing I bought for the car - a Pioneer with Burr Brown chips. Somebody else has one already in an Elan on this forum. Its got white lights and I will put in a matching Metal Monkey dial kit. It will run 8-way sound fired via amps in the boot. Again these are already bought, polished and sitting in my cupboard waiting for install. I hope to do perspex windows for them in the boot but am not sure on available space yet......

But the important thing is (if she starts) I will be able to drive the car around and work on it here and there, instead of being trapped to the weather.

feelsgoodman.jpg.

The very final thing to go in will be the attached; the light leather all matches to this one part! - (all parts I know of are bought now - I bought most of them last year when I had the budget in front of me before it got frittered away). I can definitely see light at the end of the tunnel. And I definitely think it will be far quicker popping in upgrades and refurbishing, than it was dismantling and rustproofing/refinish electrics/vacuum/coolant/engine parts.

I reckon 8 weeks, and I am not going to have to push myself as hard again as I have done so far. Even the suspension replacement will be easier. Honestly, the difference working on the car now you can reach in and grab something without getting covered in oil, its bliss. I can just pop out to the car and do 10 minutes and answer my phone without risk of covering it in oil or chemicals and I don't need a bath every time afterwards now!

[Jeemy]

Aaargh. I'll catch up to where I am - then somebody PLEASE HELP!

So yeah, I put the interior back together, nothing that might get covered in overspray, everything I need to check that it works.

So cig lighter:

Headlight switch:

Master dimmer:

B, B, V gauges, clips to top:

Climate control panel, although I am not planning to connect the rod this time round - its something I only want to do once:

For the life of me, and from all my photos, I couldn't work out when exactly I removed the dial console. I should note everything was given a good coating of ACF-50 as I did all this, attaching the dials at the top mount:

....which immediately broke under its own weight:

[Jeemy]

For some reason the bottom fixings were the wrong bolts, so I took some time to reference and install correct bolts to secure the dials:

Araldite seemed to be the best rather than hot glue:

I had to seperate the hazard/foglight bank to reinsert it; I was surprised to see the missing (AC>?) switch had unused wires running to it:

Although the bank of switches went in OK, it will need fixed in properly before the final install:

Next was the state of the art digital clock; at this stage I had to raise the fascia up on a seat cushion to get the reach:

Which also allowed the climate control electrics and lights to be fitted: