by dapinky » Tue 08.10.2013, 20:45
Just to thow my 2p (or 2c) worth into the mix......
Both arguments are correct in some part, but in my experience I have established the following:-
Rubber bushes are the best for the job IF THEY ARE WITHIN ORIGINAL SPECIFICATION.....
...by that, I mean that rubber degrades over time with exposure to the elements - it is generally a slow and continual process so as a driver you don't tend to notice until you replace old bushes with new ones, whereupon you notice the difference.
As some 'new' bushes are really what is left of the original manufacturing process, they could well be 25 years old when first used. (would you like to use 25 year old tyres on your car? I wouldn't!)
However, if they have been recently re-made to original spec, then that would be my first choice (generally).
That said, I use Poly bushes in my competition cars as they don't degrade over time - they just give up at some stage in their life. Often due to the material 'shattering' (although it doesn't really fall apart as such)....
I also use them in the elan on SOME components - one of those is the rear wishbones - along with the shock absorbers (top and bottom) as I like the consistancy they provide. (but i replace the shock absorber ones every few years anyway).
I also intend to use poly on the top front wishbones, but keep to rubber on the bottom ones.
Fot the raft, I'd stick to rubber, and for the engine mounts/dampers I'd also stick to rubber.
I only use 'good quality' poly bushes which don't require lubrication - some of the cheaper ones out there can (an do) as John says squeek a bit.
For ease of replacement, it is hard to beat poly if they are a 'loose/push' fit, but if they are bonded to an outer steel sleeve, then the tollerances are very important.
The other consideration when deciding on what is a suiatable replacement is the nature of the bush (ie, what is it actually doing) - if it is just to locate a metal unit and reduce vibration it will have a different composition to one which has a rotational element to it (like on a wishbone).
A bonded rubber rotational bush needs to be of a suitable strength to allow it to 'wind up' as the component moves (drive over a bump etc) and return to it's natural resting position afterwards (hence why some bushes should only be tightened up with the car at its normal ride height/load)....
...poly bushes are not usually like that - the inner sleeve isn't bonded to the poly - so they can be tightened up anywhere you like and the car will still sit right when it settles.
In this case, the material of the bush has to be of a suitable composition to give the same effects as a rubber one which winds up - not easy to achieve, and it is more than just replicating the shore value of the original rubber - but the suppliers/manufacturers I use are well skilled in their trade, and I generally get better results with new poly than i did with old rubber!!!
It may well be the case that in order to fully replicate the behaviour of the old design rubber, the bushes need to be either thicker or thinner than original, so the size of the 'hole' may need to be changed anyway - but to be honest, not really a major consideration on a road car, and even on a track car, probably not much more than a compromise anyway.
In the past I have had cars with no rubber bushings (for pure track use) which use a series of rose joints (rod ends) to set the suspension for the conditions on the day - but such a system would be really cr@p on a road car.
It's all a bit 'horses for courses', coupled with what we can actually get, and at what price.
If OE ones can be sourced, then that would be easiest - but if you need to get some made, it will depend on volume of sale to decide if rubber is worth a production run - poly can be made in smaller batches far cheaper....
Dave
Just the one now, but this one's mine! - and it will be finished eventually..... - but also temporary custodian of a project until it is finished enough for Angie to drive it
...oh, and a 2006 Freelander destined for the jungles of The Gambia - 4500 miles across roads, desert and tracks - what could possibly go wrong?