Motor Rebuild – (hot-to-trot)

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Re: Motor Rebuild – (hot-to-trot)

Postby Monty » Thu 19.03.2009, 21:58

Doc Fizzix wrote: I would NOT use a lighter flywheel but would stick to the stock. For the type for driving I do (non-street racing) the lighter flywheel causes the smallest of vibrations at an idle and the car can sometimes stall depending on the situation because of the missing inertia needed to keep the motor running at an idle. :)


I would have to say that there must off been something wrong with your Flywheel :? Dico fitted a Aasco Flywheel and 6 puk clutch and runs sweat as a nut and IIRC idles no different to stock, when he does get the Blue beast out off the garage :roll: he does some time stall the engine but thats due to the compition clutch.
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Re: Motor Rebuild – (hot-to-trot)

Postby Doc Fizzix » Thu 19.03.2009, 22:19

Monty wrote:
I would have to say that there must off been something wrong with your Flywheel :? Dico fitted a Aasco Flywheel and 6 puk clutch and runs sweat as a nut and IIRC idles no different to stock, when he does get the Blue beast out off the garage :roll: he does some time stall the engine but thats due to the compition clutch.


Flywheel is fine and not really a problem, I just am not as happy with it or the gas milage; there is just the smallest vibration at idle as the engine has to work harder than normal to keep the engine running smooth at idle, the stalling is rare but has to do with the engine RPM's dropping to fast and the engine does not have enough inertia to keep the motor spinning, rare but happens.
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Re: Motor Rebuild – (hot-to-trot)

Postby tigerdog » Sat 21.03.2009, 05:09

Doc Fizzix wrote:I would NOT use a lighter flywheel but would stick to the stock. For the type for driving I do (non-street racing) the lighter flywheel causes the smallest of vibrations at an idle and the car can sometimes stall depending on the situation because of the missing inertia needed to keep the motor running at an idle.

Having had the pleasure of driving Doc's Elan, I can say I did not notice the vibration at idle at all - Doc's pretty picky. Smaug also wears a light flywheel and 6-puck clutch. This combination does make it easier to stall, as Monty pointed out. OTOH, the sucker pulls and drops revs like a sport bike. It's hard to look embarrassed after a stall when you're already grinning from ear to ear. :-D To each his own.
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Re: Motor Rebuild – (hot-to-trot)

Postby Doc Fizzix » Mon 23.03.2009, 00:57

tigerdog wrote:Having had the pleasure of driving Doc's Elan, I can say I did not notice the vibration at idle at all - Doc's pretty picky.


Thanks Doug :D

I guess I am use to driving my wife's Acura and you can not even tell the motor is on. :lol:

This weekend remove the T-Bird turbo and put the stock turbo back on. After I finished the job I started her up and took her for a test drive and I was very disappointed, she ran like total crap! The engine light came on and when I tried to hit the boost the car would die as if the fuel was cut to the motor, I started thinking that I must have had damaged the oxygen sensor during the install of the new turbo so I located a new sensor and installed it. I then re-set the computer and took the car out to the local toll way so the computer could re-calibrate, after about 30 miles of smooth driving I opened her up to see how she would do after installing the new oxygen sensor and resetting the computer; I was all smiles from ear-to-ear, she drove GREAT, smoother than before and very perky.
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Re: Motor Rebuild – (hot-to-trot)

Postby MitchGriffin » Thu 06.09.2012, 02:38

Let me say that Doc's engine has been perfect! The car runs fabulously and has been a real joy to drive. Doc, thanks for the outstanding work and the support you provided after I bought your car.
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Re: Motor Rebuild – (hot-to-trot)

Postby ccb056 » Sat 10.11.2012, 23:08

Just finished reading this thread from start to finish. Pretty amazing what Doc has done for this car.

I noticed a lot of the pictures have gone missing (dead links). Would anyone have these?? I'd love to see a lot of the pics from when the engine was torn down and being rebuilt.
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Re: Motor Rebuild – (hot-to-trot)

Postby MitchGriffin » Mon 21.10.2013, 03:23

ccb056 wrote:Just finished reading this thread from start to finish. Pretty amazing what Doc has done for this car.

I noticed a lot of the pictures have gone missing (dead links). Would anyone have these?? I'd love to see a lot of the pics from when the engine was torn down and being rebuilt.


I might have the pictures you want. Doc sent me a cd with photos after I bought the car. Love that car! Send me a message to Mitch@masgconsulting.com

By the way, I did a lot of work this year - new timing belt, water pump, all wheel bearings, ect. At the same time, I put the original flywheel back in. The car is much more pleasant to drive - but certainly does not rev quite as quickly. I am happy I made the change as the car is much better in daily driving.
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Re: Motor Rebuild – (hot-to-trot)

Postby kontona » Mon 16.12.2013, 11:08

Really helpful topic.thanks a lot for your contribution on make this so detailed.
i have the same engine sitting on my garage and i'm looking for a complete gasket set.does anyone have any suggestion where to look for it?
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Re: Motor Rebuild – (hot-to-trot)

Postby Brit-Car-Nut » Mon 16.12.2013, 17:43

It depends on whether it is a Turbo or NA model. For Turbo, the consensus is use Isuzu head gaskets and for NA, the Felpro or other supplier is usually fine.

The Isuzu Turbo head gasket has different water passages than the NA.

If you add your location, you might get some suggestions as to a preferred supplier.
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Re: Motor Rebuild – (hot-to-trot)

Postby kontona » Tue 17.12.2013, 11:19

Brit-Car-Nut wrote:It depends on whether it is a Turbo or NA model. For Turbo, the consensus is use Isuzu head gaskets and for NA, the Felpro or other supplier is usually fine.

The Isuzu Turbo head gasket has different water passages than the NA.

If you add your location, you might get some suggestions as to a preferred supplier.

thanks for your reply.I leave in Athens/Greece and the problem here is that they will charge me as it's gold.that's why i'm looking for spare outside from my country.also i found out that i need a full piston ring set too.my engine is a 4XE1-T 1600cc Turbocharged.i found also that for this engine they should fit sets for Gemini,Impulse,Stylus models.As at least he wrote on this blog http://kp-gasket.blogspot.gr/2010/11/is ... ngine.html

I've also check on e-bay and found these 2 but not sure if it's compatible for my engine
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1588-IMPULSE-TU ... a7&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Isuzu-Impulse-S ... 31&vxp=mtr
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Re: Motor Rebuild – (hot-to-trot)

Postby Brit-Car-Nut » Tue 17.12.2013, 14:42

Over the years, some LEC members have upgraded their engines while others have replaced blown head gaskets and found that the non-original head gaskets in the cheap sets do not hold up so all advise that you use the correct head gasket from Lotus but all of the other gaskets from the cheap kits seem to be fine.

The Lotus engine was assembled with whatever piston and ring was required to match the bore, so you will need to get your bore measured and then figure out which pistons were used so you get the correct rings. They offered STD, 0.5mm and 1mm oversizes. You can't assume the pistons are STD. The face of the block should have a bore grade stamp - either A, B or C. Bearings are equally inconsistant as they wanted the engine to stay together, so they made sure all specifications and tolerances were met by using different sized parts from new.

The head gasket is part # A100E6104S for the Turbo version and A100E6103S for the NA. You can get a Lotus head gasket from any Lotus DEaler or from resellers like SJs or Pau Mattey. The price for the head gasket from Lotus is 29.76 + VAT (Greece is still in the EU, right?).

Get the cheap gasket set but also get the Lotus head gasket so you will be able to feel that you did the job correctly.

You also need to make sure the head is not warped beyond the very limited allowance. Over skimming the head will ruin it, so get a repair manual with ALL of the correct specifications and don't exceed any of the dimensions.
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