Hi Spec Handbrake - is there a better way

[Rob P]

Yippeee MOT passed today and I finally have a handbrake that I can trust

Created my own new lengthened levers, copious amounts of Silkopen spary and the handbrake can now hold the car on four clicks on a decent incline so I'm well pleased. Took the car for a blast through some nice country lanes on the way home from the MOT station just to remind me of how much I have missed drving this little car

Thanks to all for the input on this thread and clearly the Hi Specs are now staying put

[RayD]

Well done Rob,

Ray

[Rob P]

Well done Rob,

Ray

Cheers Ray, I was beginning to think I would never get them sorted but well pleased now with the results

[Steve A]

well done that man
Mine passed a couple of weeks ago, and the tester even commented on how good they were, he said the "Elan's usually struggle" and he was pleasantly surprised

[inkitin]

Excellent result Rob. Well done!

[Rob P]

Cheers Guys, need to find a decent run to blow away the cobwebs of having been standing around for a while whilst I sorted out a few jobs and fitted the replacement seats. Looking forward to taking her across the channel to theClassic Le Mans, next job is new tyres all round, looks like Yokohama AD08R's after reading the reviews and seeing some positive posting on here

[Dico]

How much should I extend new levers by? Is an inch too much? Cheers

[Steve A]

How much should I extend new levers by? Is an inch too much? Cheers

Here we go Dico, this should give you a clue



I added the spring to assist the return of the arm to it's start position

[Dico]

Brilliant Steve. I didn't even think about extending the other bracket. Cheers.

[Steve A]

Brilliant Steve. I didn't even think about extending the other bracket. Cheers.

I can't take the credit it was Bob

[Dico]

Unlikely, but has anyone got these extended levers and upper bracket hanging around? Or the capability of making them? Cash/numerous spare parts available in exchange

How much should I extend new levers by? Is an inch too much? Cheers

Here we go Dico, this should give you a clue



I added the spring to assist the return of the arm to it's start position

[lotusflasherman]

Try to use the brakes as little as possible between de-glazing and the MOT Rob and post some pictures of the mechanism to remind us what they look like.

Ray

I totally disagree...

If you've de-glazed them by removing the working surface you need to bed them back in to get them back to a working condition. Bedding brake pads is not a 5 minute job. It involves using the brakes in a progressive way..
I keep reading stuff on here about how crap the stock brakes are but reckon most owners abuse them through ignorance! How many people bed the pads in properly? How many keep the full area of the disc in service?.. and -
Who fits an upgrade such as EBC ventilated disc set up and Green spot pads and then goes for a blast to see what the new brakes will do?? ... WRONG!... essential reading here -
http://ebcbrakes.com/articles/how-to-bed-in-your-new-brakes-for-streeturban-driving-2/

When I raced a mini we used to pay for a track day at the start of the season mainly to bed the pads in as it's quite involved and can't be done during a practice session for a race. I lived in north London, not far from the Ferodo factory, and learnt a lot from the Racing Division guys about friction materials and how to set them up. In those days the pads were asbestos, sintered material and a lot of copper particles and the bedding process was slightly different to today. Here is the current procedure - http://ferodoracing.com/products/car-racing/pad-bedding/

If you've gone for a 'fast road' or 'track day' brake upgrade it may be more appropriate to follow the Ferodo procedure... but either way, you don't just fit pads and expect them to work!

Also, if you haven't used your car for a couple of months you'll need to clean the rust off the discs with something other than the brake pads, otherwise surface rust from the disc will get impregnated in the pad and rust-dust to rust-dust doesn't have a high co-efficient of friction. Once in the pads it's a devil to get them working properly again. It will involved taking the surface off the pads and then you've got to re-bed them. (I'm talking to UK owners here - doesn't apply to owners in hot dry climates where discs don't rust as you look at them!)

I try to use my Elan at least twice a week, all year round, whenever possible. Unfortunately I've been playing around with instruments in it for a couple of weeks and my discs are now sitting there with an orange film of surface rust on them as it's sitting outside. Before I use it I'll be whipping the wheels off and cleaning the discs with a fine sanding disc in an angle grinder and then kitchen towel with meths to get all the dust off. Bit of a pain but my 'stock brakes' on this one still work just as well as the EBC set up on another I've got SORN'ed in the garage. They don't look as 'sexy' though!

[Dico]

Unlikely, but has anyone got these extended levers and upper bracket hanging around? Or the capability of making them? Cash/numerous spare parts available in exchange

How much should I extend new levers by? Is an inch too much? Cheers

Here we go Dico, this should give you a clue



I added the spring to assist the return of the arm to it's start position

[RayD]

Rob, You'll need to do some work later, but just to get it through the test take the glaze off the rear pads and discs ...Try to use the brakes as little as possible between de-glazing and the MOT Rob

I totally disagree...

If you've de-glazed them by removing the working surface you need to bed them back in to get them back to a working condition.

I keep reading stuff on here about how crap the stock brakes are but reckon most owners abuse them through ignorance!

Before I use it I'll be whipping the wheels off and cleaning the discs with ... an angle grinder

I’m surprised you totally disagree Phil, I hope you haven't been scouring the forum since last November for something to catch me out on.

Ray

[Dico]

Surely not!

[Dico]

Anyway...

Unlikely, but has anyone got these extended levers and upper bracket hanging around? Or the capability of making them? Cash/numerous spare parts available in exchange

How much should I extend new levers by? Is an inch too much? Cheers

Here we go Dico, this should give you a clue



I added the spring to assist the return of the arm to it's start position