XIL - A Rolling Project

[cliff]

Don't fit the engine hoping that you can fit the lower transmission cover. So, progeron off again.

Makes it much easier to access the rear engine mount and connect the alternator and starter motor. In hindsight, I would drop it just for that. Some split conduit makes the whole wiring loom much neater and more professional looking.

New jackshaft fitted.

Driveshafts fitted and suspension going back together. Can see the light.

[chrisP]

I know, what kind of twisted individual would have held the lower transmission cover with an gearbox mounting bolt!!! I took the sump off yesterday and it stumped me for a while.

ChrisP

[cliff]

I seriously think that whoever designed this part of the car especially the gearbox mounting and oil filter access was well into sado masochism, probably a drinking buddy of Max Mosley. I can't think of any other logical explanation.

[cliff]

Spent 2 hours fruitlessly looking for some decent gearbox oil, thought this would be a quick trip to the local motor factors. I don't see many forums recommending Comma or Halfrauds own brand! Guess I will order it online for my next visit.

I must be getting to used to warmer climates, it was very cold here today, so gave up on the garage and rebuilt the headlight motors instead. Well documented and quite easy, three small bolts.

Quite obvious why the headlight wouldn't pop up.

Mess removed, cleaned ready to be re-greased and put back together.

Last 2 parts, a/c compressor and turbo sent for overhaul, so aiming for everything back together next visit the first week in March.

[par]

Great thread Cliff, just finished reading the last installment. The pictures are a great reference and have helped me a lot with my own ongoing project.

You seem to have managed a balance between doing a thorough job and still getting the pleasure of driving the car, something I hope to achieve. It is easy to understand how some of these projects can see cars off the road for years at a time!

I am off to google Dinitrol as it sounds like the kind of stuff I need.

[Rambo]

You'll need plenty of it !! There's a place in Glesgae that does it but at a cost

I suspect that is now why we, as owners, are having problems with rusty outriggers, jacking points, wishbones etc.. When the car left Hethel 25 years ago it had been treated with Dinitrol and not many owners back then carried on with the treatment after the 1st few inspections

[chrisP]

Clive are there any 'gotchas' that you found when removing/reinstalling the gearbox? I had the clutch delivered from Rockauto the other day. So after I paint and replace the sump and replace the exhaust i will be taking the gearbox off.

I too was looking at gearbox oil and I think this is what I will use this time round:

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-6363-castro ... fluid.aspx

and after taking the sump off a 90K mile car with zero sludge or carbon deposits in it, I will be sticking to a 10-40w semi synthetic or synthetic - I have been using comma for the last 10 years or so. but may treat it to:

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-68977-shell ... e-oil.aspx

Best Regards
Chris

[cliff]

Hi Chris,

I did mine with the engine out, this post covers it quite well though.

viewtopic.php?f=48&t=22395

[chrisP]

Cheers Clive, that helps alot

[cliff]

Compressortech told me the clutch on my AC compressor was worn beyond repair, they can normally repair most of them but had no parts for this one. Steve went out of his way to find out where I could buy a secondhand one but luckily Lotus have them on the aftersales list.

A nice shiny new compressor.

They also had dryers in stock (pretty good value at £25) and the adapters to convert to the later system.. The dryer fitted to the Elan is used on many classic cars with ac including Aston Martins & E types.

http://www.compressortech.co.uk/index.html

Power steering pump refitted. This pic shows the low pressure connection usually accessed through an opening below the RH light pod.

Compressor installed & belts tightened.

After having the cam cover powder coated, it was time to remove the baffle and clean everything out, quite easy but I would recommend using a pillar drill and a good cobalt bit. There was quite a bit of old oil and blasting residue in there, well worth doing. Cleaned and waiting to have the holes tapped and cover refitted.

[cliff]

Time to fill up the gearbox so bought this.

Almost made for the job.

Unfortunately the LH drive shaft seal was leaking, maybe I damaged it when I fitted the shaft. Called Alan Voigt and he told me they use the seals from a Vauxhall Insignia M62 six speed gearbox, GM 12755013. The local GM dealer had one on the shelf. Not difficult to do, none of my screwdrivers were man enough to get the old one out hence the crowbar. I don't have an insertion tool but a large socket did the job.

Removal/refit tools, crowbar, hammer and 50mm socket.

Oil topped up, no leaks, speedo cable secured with the small metal plate and bolt.

Power steering & throttle cable connected.

Gear cables, clutch cable, AC pipes & dryer installed, the dryer clamp was a total pita, there was more than a few remarks about the parentage of the designer of that particular item.

Getting there slowly

[cliff]

Get a pile of bits.

and put them together.

Decided at long last to replace the bonnet hinges and fit the gas struts but found a little crack.

Cleaning it up a little shows a previous repair. Nothing some fibre glass won't sort out, there has been so much project creep already, what's a little more?

Brakes and suspension back together, engine mostly connected. Need a new reversing light switch so will leave the intake pipes off for now. That's it for a few weeks but couldn't resist a quick try to see how it looks.

I think it is only when it comes to the rebuild that you realise how much has actually been taken apart. I was hoping to have it 99% done this week but there is always something else to be done. Am getting there though.

[epipete]

I'll be interested to hear how you get on with the Struts, I fitted a pair a few years back and found they left the bonnet sitting a little high, not terribly, but apparent nevertheless. You're more 'the perfectionist' (which I admire) than I am so I'm interested to see if this is also a problem for you and if so how you manage it.

I thought welding part of the strut bracket (the upright) to the hinge might do it (and toyed with getting a set of hinges off the Aftersales to play with) but it's beyond my skill set!

[cliff]

Pete, definitely not a perfectionist! Not possible if you like living in Cyprus.

Maybe just a bit OCD.

I think that the original thread recommended fitting the gas strut mountings under the hinge but a few people had the same issue so fitted them on top of the hinge with better results.

[cliff]

Finally managed a few days in the UK.

Turbo rebuilt with a new aluminium billet compressor and ported by CR Turbos (Universal Turbos).

Nice new header tank. Thanks Wayne.

Turbo and downpipe fitted.

As there have been a few discussion about this, a picture of the bracket I made to support the lower part of the heatshield. To make it easier to fit, use a captive nut.

Fitted.

Light parts powder coated and galvanised, fitted waiting for the pods.

[cliff]

Very productive day.

The intake pipes will be going soon.

New hinges and gas struts fitted.

Looking better, apart from the bonnet liner.

Light pods back on and looking more like a car for the first time in over a year. Pretty much done, brake bleeding and fluids to go. This has to wait as back to work tomorrow.

[par]

Looking very clean. Rocker cover looks very nice has it been polished?

I thought you had gone for a metallic purple accent on the cambelt but I think it is just the lighting from your sunbed making it appear purple

[cliff]

Looking very clean. Rocker cover looks very nice has it been polished?

I thought you had gone for a metallic purple accent on the cambelt but I think it is just the lighting from your sunbed making it appear purple

Thanks, the rocker cover was powder coated in Shadow Chrome by a local company in Scunthorpe.

Didn't notice the purple, one of the fluorescent tubes is an odd colour though.

[Scott]

Hey there, you have done great job.
Can you give us how much did all this restoration cost?
I am doing an engine and even more rebuilt also where i did:
1)Engine opening
2)head cleaned and fixed
3) Cleaning and fixings bores, cylinders, piston rings and springs
4) All cooling and engine hoses changed
5)New radiator which was made by cuprum(jeez, didnt know that it was built from that matterial, can live and be rebuilt easy but not good for temperatures)
6)New ignition coils
7)Magnecor KV85 leads
K&N air filter
9)New master cylinder
10)New rear brake proportioning valve
11)New thermostat
12)New hall effect sensor
13) Gasket and belt set
14)New recirculation pump and water pump
15)New clutch set (cable and cluch disc)
16)New wheel bearings
17)New rheostat and rheostat knob
18)Led lights
19)Turbo service/refurbish
20)Take off all catalysts - not going to use them again

Still to go :
1)Paint job
2)New leather in seats, wheels handbrake, gearknob and doors
3)Piper 2.5'' plus downpipe
4)Mountain chip(probably)
5)Gaz shocks
6)PNM Front/rear brakes
7)New soft top and hood catch
Door and hood seals

Total money spend yet 3.300 euro
This was the easy part as the things that have to be done will be very very expensive..

[cliff]

Hi Scott, thanks for the compliment.

In all honesty, I have no idea, I have not kept a running total. I could get a rough idea by going through the receipts but am at home at the moment and the car is in the UK.

A lot of this work can be done for reasonable prices if you look around and use local specialists. For the engine, I was in the US for a few weeks last year so managed to buy everything I needed from Rock Auto without the shipping costs, the block and head were rebuilt by an engine shop in my home town for a very good price.

Despite Blair and Cameron's best efforts, there is still some manufacturing industry left in the UK. (Pair of *****!!!) Stuff like powder coating, flywheel skimming, wheel refurb etc, were all done by local firms. A hydraulic specialist made up new fuel, ac and oil hoses for a fraction of the Lotus prices. The power steering components, rack and pump were rebuilt for less than 180 pounds, I think the starter motor was done for about 40, again by a specialist in Scunthorpe. The ac compressor was beyond repair but found one on the aftersales. They turbo overhaul was not cheap but has been uprated a little.

Probably not much use to you in Greece but I have listed the companies I used.

Brakes should be at the top of your to do list. I was lucky enough to find a set of Wilwoods from an old group buy, and fitted the PNM's on the rear, very happy with them.

I have the Piper 2.25 with a down pipe, GAZ shocks and a chip, rather than put new leather on the seats, I fitted a set of S2000 ones. Other people have used seats from other cars with good results. Have a look at some of Jamie N's threads about seats, he is also the guru for door and hood seals. Gear cables and a short shift kit transform the gear change.

My biggest problems are time and project creep. During the rebuild I asked myself many times, what did I take this off for? It is so easy to get carried away. It looks like you have done most of the big jobs though, how are your suspension bushes? Not trying to give you extra work but there is little point fitting new shocks if your bushes and springs are worn.

Good luck and how about starting your own thread with pictures so we can see how you are getting on?