Replacing Radiator

[RobertC]

HELP ! Getting desperate here !!!

I've just taken out the original radiator and was about to install one bought from Coolex Radiators but I don't think it will fit.

Here are the potential problems (apologies for the length of the description)
1.
The top lugs are 0.5cm close together on the new rad than on the original taken off.
Is there any play in the top two rubber grommets to accommodate the difference ?

2.
a. The bottom lugs on the replacement are about 0.3cm narrower in diameter than the original.
How much potential is there for damage if the new radiator 'rattles' around in the wider holes of the lower support frame grommets ?

b. The bottom lugs on the original are mounted onto a small in line 'bridge' bar which is mounted into the lower frame channel of the radiator causing the lugs and the flat of the bridge to be proud of the channel sides. This bridge flat then sits on the lower support frame grommets. These grommets are in a small channel, with slightly tapering sides, of their own in the main lower support frame. The result is the radiator mounts clear of any part of the support frame including the tapering sides of the grommet channels.
If the new radiator is fitted as is just one of the radiator lower channel sides will make contact with the tapering sides of the grommet channels, but not the other. Combine this with the narrower lugs of the new radiator in the wider holes of the original lower grommets, and no other way to fix the new radiator firmly in place, and I think the new radiator would quite soon be rattling around as the radiator lower channel aluminium side buckles against the tapering grommet channel side.
I could cut a groove into the replacement radiator lower channel sides but I think this would ruin the strength of the radiator frame itself and the radiator might bend or even collapse.

I've spoken with Steve of Coolex and he says he has sold hundreds of these replacement radiators, some to forum members, and has not had any negative feedback.

If anyone who has bought from Coolex has successfully fitted their replacement radiator, and/or has not had any subsequent problems, I would appreciate some advise on how they may have gotten around the above potential problems, if indeed they had them in the first place.

As noted at the top, getting a bit desperate here. Was supposed to be at a wedding this weekend but will now have to hire a car to get there.

All help welcome, particularly if sooner rather than later. Mobile number is 0797 326 1343.

Thanks

RobertC

[Artaban]

Robert,

Just measured my radiator that I took out and between the top lugs the distance is 53cm (+ or - 1mm) and 56cm between the bottom two. The lugs are thinner on the Coolex radiator but it didn't rattle when I installed it. Might be worth measuring to see if you have the same distances on the new rad.

He can't say he hasn't had any bad feedback as I emailed him on the 16th July at 14.58 to query the indent in the lower lip of the radiator where it goes over the support frame. The OEM rad has the indent on both lips (front and back) but the Coolex rad only had the indent on the back so my rad was being held up by the support frame and not the rubber grommets. I had to use my dremel to cut out a section so that it wasn't in contact. See pics below. Again worth checking to see if you have the indent at the bottom of the rad, both front and back, as per the original.

As supplied


As adapted to fit


The gunk on the support frame is Fluid Film as I didn't want the frame to rust again and well worth doing whilst its out. On mine there was no room for play in the top grommets so they will have to be spot on; maybe a fraction more forgiving on the lower grommets.

Hope this helps.

Andy

[GeoffSmith]

I've just measured my OEM rad and it's 52.8mm top and 55.9mm bottom. The dowels are ~11mm diameter top and ~13mm bottom. There is a subtle recess front and back as Andy describes.

I sourced my rad from a place in Avonmouth and the dowels were a lot smaller (maybe 8mm) and I wasn't happy with it: The top one I fixed with some heatshrink tubing but the bottom one I tapped a thread and fitted some 13mm aluminium tube.

[paza1]

Just checked my newly installed Coolex rad and it's exactly as Andy described. Certainly won't be driving it like it is. Thanks for the warning. Of course, I should have inspected it more closely before fitting but Coolex should have heeded Andys email. Otherwise, the rad looks well made and is a good price
Cheers
Mark

[muley]

The pins on my Coolex rad were a bit out - like yours. I used a piece of polythene tubing (spout from a sealant cartridge) instead of one of the upper grommets. I'll check the bottom clearance sometime - but the rad is securely in place and working fine.

Overall very happy with the service and quality of the product, though.



Jim

[Coolexperts]

Hello All,

I am confused with the comments and feedback from the members. We originally used a Boston Radiator unit that we acquired and copied the sizes from that. No one until recently has bought up the difference in pin sizes or the additional recess required on bottom member. It is no trouble for us to alter the sizes of the sizes required but we do need to be informed.

Regards

Steve.

[andy b]

Hello All,

I am confused with the comments and feedback from the members. We originally used a Boston Radiator unit that we acquired and copied the sizes from that. No one until recently has bought up the difference in pin sizes or the additional recess required on bottom member. It is no trouble for us to alter the sizes of the sizes required but we do need to be informed.

Regards

Steve.

HI Chaps were you at the NEC with a stand oct 2915 i bought am M100 rad which i still have to fit just like to know who i bought it from.
LOL andy b

[alan e]

Hello All,

I am confused with the comments and feedback from the members. We originally used a Boston Radiator unit that we acquired and copied the sizes from that. No one until recently has bought up the difference in pin sizes or the additional recess required on bottom member. It is no trouble for us to alter the sizes of the sizes required but we do need to be informed.

Regards

Steve.

HI Chaps were you at the NEC with a stand oct 2915 i bought am M100 rad which i still have to fit just like to know who i bought it from.
LOL andy b

Oct 2915 the cars will be classics by then and so will i

[Coolexperts]

Hello Alan e

Yes it was us at the NEC Classic Car show, sorry for the late reply.

Steve.

[nicowalker1]

Just checked mine, I don't have a cut out and remember it being hard to get the tow point screwed in. It is sat on the bar but is secure. I gave it a good push and pull and there is absolutely no movement. As for fitting into the gromets, I had no issues at all.
I would recommend a cut out on future production if possible.

[Simon_P]

It is only soft aluminium so if there is no relief it will bend.

Coolexperts, if you copy the original there won't be a problem!

[Rambo]

I was thinking that too Simon.

I'm not sure what a Boston rad. is but why not copy the OEM part ?

[Simon_P]

Just measured my Coolex rad
The top pins are 522 mm apart
The bottom pins are 558mm apart

So the top ones are 5mm to close together - Will it still fit or do I need to make a mod.? I need to know before I take the old one out.

[alan e]

Just measured my Coolex rad
The top pins are 522 mm apart
The bottom pins are 558mm apart

So the top ones are 5mm to close together - Will it still fit or do I need to make a mod.? I need to know before I take the old one out.

Just been into the garage and measured my old rad the top pins are 525 mm apart and the bottom pins are 560 mm the measurements are from the centre of both pins so maybe a small adjustment may be required but not much if any.

[HJ2]

... This looks well within the limits that the rubber grommets can accommodate.
Lube it up a little and give it your best shot!

[steve matthews]

Lube it up a little and give it your best shot!

I don't think that would be Politically Correct.

Steve - waiting for my new radiator.

[HJ2]

Yes, my UK slang IS improving!

[RobertC]

I started this thread almost exactly a year ago so perhaps it's time I added a bit more to it.

Firstly thanks to all for the responses to my original post.

Whilst I do think that it would be better to have the bridge and larger dowels at the bottom of the Coolex radiator and cutouts on the bottom of it for the support frame my radiator installed without a problem, although there were a couple of concerns along the way, and has been working well ever since.

So, and to some small degree in defence of the Coolex radiator not having wider lower dowels and the mount bridge, ....

The concerns ….

The main one was keeping the radiator above the support frame. In order to do this I used a stack of rubber and steel washers on the bottom dowels where the bridge should be that equalled the height of the bridge.
These washers were obtained from Screwfix and B&Q, with the rubber washers being ordinary plumbing washers. On top to go around and clear the weld I used a couple of standard wide rubber washers with a larger inner diameter (shower hose rubber ring washers). Then a harder rubber washer to keep these in place and finally three snug fitting galvanised steel washers at the bottom. The harder rubber washers were tap washers drilled out so they fit closely around the lower dowels. I created a single stack by sticking the washers together with small strips of thin double sided tape.
This stack has kept the radiator above the beam without any cutouts although I think there was probably only enough room to get a thin piece of paper between them at the time. You’ll have to determine exactly how many washers are needed yourself. I would probably use one more steel washer if I had to install another radiator just to get that extra bit a clearance.

The second was the irritation factor of getting the top dowels to slot into the grommets without pushing the grommets through the frame mount points (which I managed to do a good number of times !). In order to do this I used a marker pen to mark lines on the top and sides of the radiator at the centre of the upper dowels and marked by the grommet centres on the frame so that when I was looking up I could continually exactly line up the radiator as I was putting it in place. I put a thin smear of SILICON grease on the upper dowels and a very small amount at the opening of each grommet. It was then a case of offering up and carefully placing the top dowels against the grommet holes without actually trying to put them in. Then using VERY small movements and ONLY slight pressure easing the radiator dowels into the grommets. You can feel the dowels start to move into the grommets. Then with a little bit more movement and slight pressure the dowels sucked into the grommets.

Lastly if you are going to replace the radiator, at the point that it is out, there is always the element of project creep.
In my case I cleaned up (Wire brush and Hammerite Rusteater) and repainted (Hammerite Satin finish) all of the lower frames/mounts. I removed and repainted the towing eye. I also tidied up and repainted the fan cowlings as they were rusting.

I have pictures of all of these things but have not yet found a way of getting pictures onto this forum as I do not have web space for a URL linked image. If someone would care to enlighten me [Or would like me to do a radiator replacement ‘How To’ write up !] I will put them on this thread. Otherwise if anyone is interested and would like to get their email address to me I will happily forward them copies of these pictures.

[steve matthews]

Glad it all went well Robert. Looking forward to my turn with the Fed version if their is one.

[Rambo]

I have just had a shiny new alloy radiator ex Coolex fitted to my NMY and there were no fitting problems reported by Callum, a very experienced Lotus mechanic at Craig Moncrieff Cars in Edinburgh

Good product. Thanks Steve at Coolex and Callum at CM