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Danevansgolf wrote:I've just fitted the pnm standard full exhaust system (no silencer fitted). Been out for a drive and noticed that the car the car backfires a lot on overrun (when I take my door off the throttle).
Jamie N wrote:Danevansgolf wrote:I've just fitted the pnm standard full exhaust system (no silencer fitted). Been out for a drive and noticed that the car the car backfires a lot on overrun (when I take my door off the throttle).
Maybe that's the main problem Dan?, something that heavy on the throttle isn't going to lift too quick, you should try the shoe idea, some say its a superior system.
The errors codes are stored so you will probably be able to see the error code it has detected.Danevansgolf wrote:Doubt anything will show as is come on then goes off pretty quick. Will let you know on that result.
Giniw wrote:As for blindly adjusting the timing, I would be cautious about that.
I don't know.rip wrote:How do you think engineers set it in the first place?
I agree with that, it's just that offsetting the base timing is not equivalent to remap all the ECU tables, but I am not a specialist so maybe it could be OK. I just don't know.Many of us have fitted bigger exhausts to our cars. I do not assume that this has not affected the dynamics of the engine If you make a change somewhere with any engine, it is possible that you have to adjust something else to get the best from it.
With any engine if you change the cam profile, exhaust, port the head for better flow then, assuming you have an electronic management system, the last thing you should do is re-map. A proper custom job will include a rolling road test in order to provide the optimum fuelling & ignition for the changes you have made.
Yes that is why I find it strange and suspicious to alter the timing without investigating more. But that is just my not so informed understanding, it's just that I would be afraid to do that on my car. I don't say it is actually a wrong idea ^^The pulley only goes on 1 way because it has a woodruff key
Well, indeed if you can see no knocking, it's probably not badThe difference when I did my timing by stopwatch was quite alarming.
My test was to accelerate from 25 to 70 in 3rd along a flat, quiet dual carriageway, starting the watch when the speedo hit 30. Adjust the timing then try again. Adjustment almost halved the 30-70 time.
I also hooked up Elanscan & watched for knock to make sure the ECU was not backing the timing off. When I saw this happen, I knew I had gone too far (& I got no more performance at this point either).
Danevansgolf wrote:Then realising that it wasn't the engine light coming on, it's the warning light flashing on then off when deaccellarating/ braking. Not sure why
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