Door window fails to operate correctly. Diagnosis & Repair

[Rob P]

I think that the reason they needed replacing is that the previous "mechanic" fitted them vertically not horizontally, so they were more of a slider than a roller

I had the very same issues when I worked on mine last year which ended up with them being ever so slightly chewed up and hence the window was sticking. Nice use of new material for the replacements, as you say the costs for the actual replacements are a touch silly

[Neil D.]

Notes relating the S2 slider/roller

The so called "rollers" spacer tubes are mounted vertically, they do NOT roll but slide.
There are 4 per side.

The drawing in section BK page 10 of the workshop manual is clearly wrong.
5 spacer tubes are shown for one side, and these are mounted at 90 degrees to what they should be.
Also, one slider will only accommodate one spacer tube.

Technically, it does not make sense for the spacer tubes to roll, creating lots of friction due to opposed movement.
Most are U shaped when removed as they are worn, but not from rolling.

On the S2, the rollers are crudely cut pieces of PVC tube, filled with black silicone.

Which way around do the sliders fit. Spacer tubes to the outside, or to the inside ? Page 11 vi) is not correct.

Neil

[Neil D.]

For information to anybody contemplating a window regulator rebuild.

The closest lames Spa is of a Peugeot 405 ( Front window lift )
Valeo, Magnetti have different connectors, and or not simply modified to fit the Elan, best option remains a second hand Lames Spa

The cable needs to be shortened on both sides
the Outer cable form the Elan reused

Length of cable from central ferrule to slider ferrule is 860 mm ( both sides are identical ) measured inside to inside.
diameter of the cable is 1.95 mm

Voila
Neil

[roy666]

Hi Neil - in the middle of trying to get my driver's window working again. My glass is stuck in the up position, I can't get the window down to gain access to the regulator plastic u fitting on the runner. I don't think the regulator is jammed solid; it is able to take the window down about 3 inches and then gets stuck. I can't reach up to get the plastic u fitting off. I'm afraid to start being agricultural with the glass to try and force it down. Any tips how to get the glass down would be great. I don't really want to break the u clip plastic mech.. it seems ok.

cheers Mike

[fandral]

Hi everybody,

I live in Portugal and I own a Lotus Elan M100. I had a problem with the left lift from the door window. The lift motor is working but the plastic part is broken. I tried to find but till now cannot find this parts. Only the complete B100B0079F (reference).

Anyone here can help me?

Thanks in advance.

JR

[fandral]

Hi,

I'm from Portugal and I have problems with my car Windows. Seems that the butterfly and the slider are broken. For what I read here in the forum, I need the butterfly+slider+red clip... But I read also that the Peugeot 405 92-96 uses the same. I tried to google it and doesn't look the same... so I'm in doubt... what to choose...
1 - where can I buy the butterfly+slider+red clip
2 - is correct that the Peugeot 405 92-96 uses the same?

Thanks for the help.

[Kathryn]

For quite a while now, maybe even as long as I've had the car, the passenger window gets about 3/4 the way up then clunks and slows down. Lately it's been clunking ever louder and getting slower, so I've been aware something in the window mechanism is probably failing. However, today as I was driving along I noticed I hadn't closed the window after putting the roof down. It was open about 2 inches. As I closed it, it clunked louder than ever followed by what sounded like something falling through the door. I looked over and fortunately it was fully up. Now, I wasn't expecting it to open again, and was half expecting the glass to drop, but now it goes up and down as smoothly as the drivers side! (well as smooth as an Elan window is gonna get!) So what happened there then?

[Rob P]

Hi Kathryn, Not sure I can advise on what the clunking was but I would suggest a quick removal of the door panel to have a look inside the bottom of the door to see what the object might be that fell to the bottom of it. That might then give you an idea of what has occurred. If you find something and post a piccy on here I'm sure one of the many Gurus will be able to advise further
Rob P

[Specky]

Most probably a fore or aft slider jamming and subsequently letting go/failing

Or the central slider partially snapping a lower or upper lug.


TTFN

[Kathryn]

I shall have to have a look. I just find it odd that it is now working better. (I'd better not speak too soon, I've not tried it again!)

[epipete]

You're going to have to take a look, the rear metal bracket (that's glued to the window) on mine has given up the ghost resulting in the rear dragging down as the window goes up so I don't think it is that in your case.

Let us know, please

[Kathryn]

I've not had the door card off, but I did find this screw in the sill by the hinge.

2016-05-22 17.28.27-1.jpg

Window is still working perfectly fine. My possible (probably wrong) theory is this was caught in the mechanism. Would like to know where it might be from though. Looks like the ones holding the door card in?

[Specky]

The only screws similar to that I can think of...

There are normally three screws on the front of the door card (where it mates with the dashboard when the door is closed), that'd be my first check.

Possibly a window bobbin screw, normally they corrode to the tapping plates and are rock solid, so much so you're nearly guaranteed to shear the tapping plate when trying to undo them, but this is not a likely source, but it's possible

I think the rest are dome headed screws on the door...

[danbrown100]

Having repaired/overhauled both my windows, I would say it is almost certainly from a window bobbin - of course it could have been dropped down inside the door during assembly, so you now have a spare if both your bobbins are firm and in place!

[Kathryn]

The window is still working fine, and the screw is living in the ashtray In case it is ever needed. (along with a tiny washer found under the seat, sweet wrappers and old car park tickets!)

[JusNoGood]

The only screws similar to that I can think of...

There are normally three screws on the front of the door card (where it mates with the dashboard when the door is closed), that'd be my first check.

Possibly a window bobbin screw, normally they corrode to the tapping plates and are rock solid, so much so you're nearly guaranteed to shear the tapping plate when trying to undo them, but this is not a likely source, but it's possible

I think the rest are dome headed screws on the door...

Hi Specky

I have an issue I'd like to diagnose but I can't seem to see your photos and video from your original post (I see 3rd party hosting has been disabled). Do you have a copy of those please?

My driver window is up and won't move. I cant hear a motor running when I press down on the button. Initially my switch wasn't lighting up so I've replaced that, hoping that would fix it. Well, the light is now works on the switch but still no movement on the window and no motor sound. I've switched the fuses around to see if its that but nothing.

so I'm guessing it could be
- Still the switch - I'm not sure which of the switch connectors do what but I did a resistance test with (if you flip the switch over) the front left and the rear right connectors and it seemed to be fine ie. there was a resistance in standard position but as soon as the switch was pressed a current successfully passed through.
- a relay, motor or even wire damage.

Regards

Justin

[RonR]

Hi Justin,

Most of the info from the first post, including pictures can be found here: www.lotusm100.com/manuals/Specky's Door Repair.pdf

Cheers,
Ron

[JusNoGood]

Hi Justin,

Most of the info from the first post, including pictures can be found here: www.lotusm100.com/manuals/Specky's Door Repair.pdf

Cheers,
Ron

Thats great. Thanks very much Ron

[Brit-Car-Nut]

Hi Specky

I have an issue I'd like to diagnose but I can't seem to see your photos and video from your original post (I see 3rd party hosting has been disabled). Do you have a copy of those please?

Regards

Justin

Hi Justin:

The PDF of Specky's posting is there as well as a LOT of other manuals(in PDF format) for further reference. I asked Specky to send me his video so I can include it with the other information. I haven't heard back from him. If anyone else has saved a copy, please send it to me and I will add it to the list.

The service manual has a section on door windows that might help you too. Just click the link in my "signature" at the bottom of this post to see all of the manuals available. The electrical manual will also have dome details like the wiring diagram and how the circuit works.

[JusNoGood]

Hi Specky

I have an issue I'd like to diagnose but I can't seem to see your photos and video from your original post (I see 3rd party hosting has been disabled). Do you have a copy of those please?

Regards

Justin

Hi Justin:

The PDF of Specky's posting is there as well as a LOT of other manuals(in PDF format) for further reference. I asked Specky to send me his video so I can include it with the other information. I haven't heard back from him. If anyone else has saved a copy, please send it to me and I will add it to the list.

The service manual has a section on door windows that might help you too. Just click the link in my "signature" at the bottom of this post to see all of the manuals available. The electrical manual will also have dome details like the wiring diagram and how the circuit works.

Thanks very much. Yes have down loaded all the manuals and have the electrical one opened up at the window diagram. Nothing beats some pictures and a video though

I've found this video showing door panel removal, but doesn't cover the window electrics unfortunately.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sLJWCYD_lu8

..and from the information in the video I've found the little door rivets

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00 ... 1OLE&psc=1