Door window fails to operate correctly. Diagnosis & Repair

[Brit-Car-Nut]

Thanks very much. Yes have down loaded all the manuals and have the electrical one opened up at the window diagram. Nothing beats some pictures and a video though

I've found this video showing door panel removal, but doesn't cover the window electrics unfortunately.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sLJWCYD_lu8

..and from the information in the video I've found the little door rivets

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00 ... 1OLE&psc=1

The original fasteners were push-pin scrivets, not screw type. Most automotive upholstery companies offer them.
http://www.gbk-uk.com/products-category ... eners/42/1 is a good source.
The correct part #s for the large lower door panel clips are: A100W6481F @ £1.13 ea and B100V6013F @ £0.37 ea and are still available from a Lotus dealer.
The smaller ones that hold the plastic covers over the access holes (A100W6470F- £0.79) are also available from Lotus or the above bulk supplier.

Sometimes, the price for the original parts from Lotus is not excessive and it is best to keep it as original as possible.

I have opened up several interiors only to find holes drilled out and all of the mounting fasteners wrong and basically not repairable.

[JusNoGood]

Ah right. Thanks very much. Sound advice

[JusNoGood]

I think I may have found the problem....but would be grateful for some advice. I'm only starting out with electrics so I'm still learning.


So post 1 of 2:

Here is the diagram for Left switch..

Screen Shot 2018-02-07 at 17.15.05.png

and here is a picture of the wiring to that switch.

IMG_5314.jpg

So that one looks ok to me. Black earth, a yellow green and a yellow to the switch powering it. Then the up and a down wires coming out to the window motor.

[JusNoGood]

Now I think this is the problem.

The wiring diagram for the RHS seems to imply there are additional wires. So ignition feeding it and then wires going on to the LHS switch to feed that. So I was expecting at least one more wire feeding this switch - so instead of 5 to the LHS I was expecting 6 or 7 (not quite sure as I'm not 100% reading the diagrams).

Screen Shot 2018-02-07 at 17.49.35.png

I only have four wires connected to the switch. When I unraveled the electrical tape I found two wires not connected but soldered together. Looks like a yellow brown/red and a solid red. Can someone please tell me which wires they are in the diagram and which connection they should be soldered into?

[Brit-Car-Nut]

Since one side is working and the other isn't, the first two tests you should do is swap switches and try both windows. If that solves it, then the switch is bad. If it doesn't solve it, then swap the two relays and try again. If that doesn't solve it, then a test light will be needed to test the wiring one section at a time.

Do those first and let us know.

The yellow / brown wire is the trigger for the up relay and the yellow /purple is the trigger for the down relay.

[JusNoGood]

Thanks. Sorry I should have said that. I did switch the switches over. Both work on the LHS and both don't work on the RHS. (the lights on both light up but nothing happens when I press).

On closer inspection of the two wires soldered together and not connected to the switch, the first wire is yellow and purple and the second is solid red. So that probably explains why it doesn't go down doesn't it?

So I need to get the YP connected to the switch. Do you know where the red should be connected to?

[lotusflasherman]

If you need to get the door card off to check the motor electrics there is a better way to remove the red 'thingy' from the door lock (without breaking it) than is shown in the video - where he broke it! .
Link here ..Removing red thingy

[JusNoGood]

If you need to get the door card off to check the motor electrics there is a better way to remove the red 'thingy' from the door lock (without breaking it) than is shown in the video - where he broke it! .
Link here ..Removing red thingy

Oh thats clever. I did order two of them red things early today...coming Friday

[GeoffSmith]

Not sure where you got the diagrams from but they're different to the WikiLEC and I wonder if the red lead is a bodge. That aside, you've got power and earth to the LEDs, a known good switch does not work, therefore the problem lies downstream. Are all four connections made on the back of the switch?

[Brit-Car-Nut]

the first wire is yellow and purple and the second is solid red. So that probably explains why it doesn't go down doesn't it?

So I need to get the YP connected to the switch. Do you know where the red should be connected to?

My guess is the red wire is something added (like Geoff said) and maybe part of an alarm or modified remote door lock system?

Do you have a test light? Check to see if the yellow green wire has power when the key is on. If it does, you can carefully touch the yellow purple to it and the window should go down. JUST a QUICK TOUCH!

If the window moves, then you will need to repair the connector that goes on the switch connections.

Is this a sudden, NEW problem or has the window not worked for as long as you have owned it?

[JusNoGood]

Not sure where you got the diagrams from but they're different to the WikiLEC and I wonder if the red lead is a bodge. That aside, you've got power and earth to the LEDs, a known good switch does not work, therefore the problem lies downstream. Are all four connections made on the back of the switch?

Yea does look a bodge. I think I'll be removing the tunnel at the weekend to see whats underneath. Any hints and tips for doing that? The yellow purple wire is just too short to do anything with it deep down in the hole.

The diagram was from the manual download page. The Lotus "training course notes v3 Electrical" page 38 in the pdf.

there are four connections made on the RHS

Way I see it I need 5...
1. wire to Up connector on window motor
2. wire to down connector on window motor
3. earth
4. wire from ignition
5. wire to the LHD switch to power that.

I believe I have 1,3,4,5 connected but not 2....and I've got the extra red wire

[JusNoGood]

the first wire is yellow and purple and the second is solid red. So that probably explains why it doesn't go down doesn't it?

So I need to get the YP connected to the switch. Do you know where the red should be connected to?

My guess is the red wire is something added (like Geoff said) and maybe part of an alarm or modified remote door lock system?

Do you have a test light? Check to see if the yellow green wire has power when the key is on. If it does, you can carefully touch the yellow purple to it and the window should go down. JUST a QUICK TOUCH!

If the window moves, then you will need to repair the connector that goes on the switch connections.

Is this a sudden, NEW problem or has the window not worked for as long as you have owned it?

Ah right, yes great idea. I did have a test light but no idea where it is now. I'll stick an amazon order in

No not a sudden problem. When I went to see the car with Clemo a few weeks ago it wasn't working. We all thought it was the switch as the light wasn't on...so I decided to buy the car knowing this was an issue (it was a 4 hour journey to see the car and I wasn't going to go back 4 hours just because the window didnt work, especially as the the car is in such lovely condition apart from that).

Yes the red could quite possibly be that. I think the pre owner said he had probs with the alarm and it had been disconnected.

thats both of you for your help. Really helpful and learning all the time

[JusNoGood]

I'll need to solder a length of wire to the YP one as it's too short currently. What type of wire will I need for that?

I do have a multi meter so I just need to check the DC using that don't I? Earth one connector and then sick the other on the wire to see if there is a charge coming through it?

[Brit-Car-Nut]

You can usually get a "jumper wire" with alligator clamps at both ends - like these: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Ruikey-Alligat ... dpSrc=srch

Just figure out how long you need and get a few of those. This test will tell you if the circuit is still complete and then you can take the center console apart to get to the actual harness and fix it correctly.

It would be interesting to see where the red wire goes.

The switch only has 3 connections, One for UP, one for DOWN and one for the power feed (yellow / green).

I can offer some pictures from my car since my interior is currently up on a shelf while I am reassembling the car after a full re-paint. The harness to the switch is actually fairly long once you get the console apart. The connectors for the switch are standard GM, so there is probably a "kit" available with new connection sockets and a new housing. I will look through a few sites.

[Brit-Car-Nut]

I'll need to solder a length of wire to the YP one as it's too short currently. What type of wire will I need for that?

Automotive wire can be purchased at a DIY store. Just make sure the gauge is the same as what you are repairing.

I do have a multi meter so I just need to check the DC using that don't I? Earth one connector and then sick the other on the wire to see if there is a charge coming through it?

Yes. You just need to be sure the yellow / green has not blown it's fuse.

The switch should have had a plug connector and it should have 2 of the 3 wires still connected. I will post a few pictures later tonight.

[JusNoGood]

thanks very much

[Brit-Car-Nut]

Here are pictures showing what you will find under the center console bits
If you need more pictures I took a bunch.

IMG_0248-small.jpg

IMG_0253-small.jpg

IMG_0257-small.jpg

[JusNoGood]

hummm thats interesting.

so you have black, YG, YP and YB wired....I have black, two solid yellows and a YB. then the YP is left hanging.

Can I ask what your LHS switch looks like please? Would like to check to see if my LHS is oddly colour coded too. Are you driving a LHD or RHD?

[Brit-Car-Nut]

My car is a LHD. FED model. In the picture, the LH socket is on the left side. I will look at the colors later today and let you know. I believe they are the same as what is shown on the circuit diagram. One of the yellows has to be a yellow / green YG as that is the power source. You can identify it using a test light / meter and turning the ignition on and then probing the wires. The one that has power is the YG.

I believe Geoff has an S2 wiring guide, so maybe he can look to see if they changed the wire color codes on the later car.

[JusNoGood]

Thanks. Just interested to see how both are wired to give me any clues.

The colour coding of yours looks the same as my RHS and the RHS of the diagram....I'm confused though as I would have expected a second YG wire to take the power from that switch to the other side (as per the diagram below)

Screen Shot 2018-02-08 at 18.58.04.png

On Saturday I think I'll do what you suggested yesterday and split the YP from the red wire, extend the YP and test it.