A Post seals

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A Post seals

Postby alexblack13@ » Mon 22.10.2018, 21:17

Received a set of seals from vendor of the car. ( better late than never) So I got stuck into removing the old and tatty items. There might be a magic wand for this job but I had a whale of a time removing the original items. A day nearly for each. 2nd one was a little easier with some customised tools. So they are off... The holders are in decent condition too..

Question. There was a lot of sealant / glue used to hold in the originals. I have bought sikaflex 221 in black as I am sure that is what was used by Lotus from new. Is it really necessary to use so much of the stuff to hold in the seals? I can see the need where the seal joins the top rail and also where it is secured at he bottom. I've never used sika221 as yet. How workable is it? I received a free sponge with the new tube. I assume the sponge is for use where the 221 meets the top rail etc?

Anybody have any tips for this beginner? I can see this getting real messy :bonk:

All help appreciated.
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Re: A Post seals

Postby Rambo » Mon 22.10.2018, 21:55

Jamie the Seal is your man for advice. But he is definitely not a Sikaflex fan

He is into butyl rubber :smt079
Last edited by Rambo on Tue 23.10.2018, 08:59, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: A Post seals

Postby MPx » Tue 23.10.2018, 00:00

alexblack13@ wrote: I can see this getting real messy :bonk:


Yep..its going to get messy. I believe that nearly every M100 is unique despite each being made from very similar parts. Hence why we see so many variations of shut lines and various bits out of square. You'll get the idea of how close to spot on yours is easily enough from the work you've already done. With the old seals and silkaflex removed put the windows up and shut the door. Hold the new seal up to the gap between screen surround and side glass. Are they anywhere near touching? When Paul Matty's did mine many years ago, they did a really tidy job with minimal gunge and it all looked very neat. Unfortunately this left at least a 10mm gap between seal and glass which proved to be not so much a seal as a wind tunnel. (Obviously different gaps on each side and not consistent along their length). When they had their second go, they used masses of silkaflex between screen surround and seal which does look a bit of a mess, but at least it means the seals now touch the side glass even if they don't exactly seal in the sense of keeping the rain out. Best of luck with it....
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Re: A Post seals

Postby alexblack13@ » Tue 23.10.2018, 16:43

I have the nearside seal fitted but no glue as yet. The glass fitted the seal great. So... so far so good. I am not looking forward to hitting it with the 221 though. The new seal is a very good fit I have to say and should be no different once 221 is in there.

I wondered how the 221 was ' worked ' around the join to the header and same at the bottom. Is it a case of rubber glove and smooth as required. .? Etc....

Waiting on my replacement new seal from SJ sports cars. They have been v good so far.

Keep you posted.

Al' .... :wink:
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Re: A Post seals

Postby alexblack13@ » Tue 23.10.2018, 16:51

Rambo wrote:Jamie the Seal is your man for advice. But he is definitely not a Sikaflex fan

He is into butyl rubber :smt079


I know... I was down to see him with a view to buying his continuous rubber seal a posts and top rail. Then a package arrived from person I bought car from. 2 new a post seals!! So ... I got on with it. Butyl rubber is great but remains soft I think. Might not be the best for closing the very nice hood tight against? ..

Happy to be told otherwise of course. I have never used the stuff.
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Re: A Post seals

Postby alexblack13@ » Tue 23.10.2018, 16:55

MPx wrote:
alexblack13@ wrote: I can see this getting real messy :bonk:


Yep..its going to get messy. I believe that nearly every M100 is unique despite each being made from very similar parts. Hence why we see so many variations of shut lines and various bits out of square. You'll get the idea of how close to spot on yours is easily enough from the work you've already done. With the old seals and silkaflex removed put the windows up and shut the door. Hold the new seal up to the gap between screen surround and side glass. Are they anywhere near touching? When Paul Matty's did mine many years ago, they did a really tidy job with minimal gunge and it all looked very neat. Unfortunately this left at least a 10mm gap between seal and glass which proved to be not so much a seal as a wind tunnel. (Obviously different gaps on each side and not consistent along their length). When they had their second go, they used masses of silkaflex between screen surround and seal which does look a bit of a mess, but at least it means the seals now touch the side glass even if they don't exactly seal in the sense of keeping the rain out. Best of luck with it....


Thank you Mike. I will post how it ends up with hopefully some pics.

Al' ....
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Re: A Post seals

Postby Fredjohn » Tue 23.10.2018, 18:27

Never actually tried this, but after roughly applying Sikaflex, cover with clingfilm then mould to shape with fingers or knife. Remove clingfilm once set.
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Re: A Post seals

Postby Simon_P » Tue 23.10.2018, 21:08

The workshop manual has a diagram of where the Sikaflex 221 (referenced in the manual) should go.

That said, the sealing evolved in an effort to keep the water out. I haven't read the addendum, which may say spread the stuff everywhere.

I have 2 sets to do shortly - keep us updated.
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Re: A Post seals

Postby Rice crispy » Thu 25.10.2018, 11:28

Sikkaflex is messy. I,ve used it with clingfilm over the top with some reasonable success, it does seem to make it dry with a shiny finish compared to any seals though.
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