Slider Replacement

[basher]

Thanks all for the offers of help.
The problem was the far track. The blocks in that channel would slow down, fall behind the front track and finally jam the window. We put an adjustable spanner on it to twist it and it would pick up momentum and go to the top.
Seeing this we put a permanent twist in and it would then almost reach the top. We put a washer on the top mount of the back track and we got full movement and secured it in the correct position.

Somewhere in my cars life, that track has got twisted. The metal plate across the opening is non standard and it makes you wonder why it was fitted or why it was felt necessary. It was never the greatest and it has seized up before when I was on the NC500, a shed load of silicon grease squirted down the channels got it going again. The plate coming away from the glass allowed a slight pivot of movement which probably helped it to work with damaged track as did the play in the central slider. As soon as I fixed these issues it made it totally unserviceable.

Anyway, it's now working. All this strain may have taken its toll on the motor but for now it's working so I won't go looking to change it at this time. As part of our desperate attempts to identify the problem we also removed the rollers and I honestly believe that they don't make any difference whatsoever.
Worst job we've had on the car I think.

Thanks all

[Brit-Car-Nut]

The rollers basically remove any "clunking" of the sliders in the channels - when going over bumps and such.
They act like a spring and keep the sliders away from the channel.

[Steve A]

I found the slightest change in anything concerning the window adjustment could be be the difference between a smooth action and a juddering halt.
As a general rule of thumb, move one thing at a time and gauge the effect it has, it's very easy to find yourself in the what the did I do there situation
When I rebuilt mine I tried different types rollers (material), all of which ended up being thrown violently into the bin, it seemed like a good idea at the time
Also I disconnected the window glass from the central slider just to see how the sliders felt manually pushing and pulling the glass up and down, if this isn't smooth then your in serious .
Without a doubt when the car left the factory they are set up the best they can be, then over time for whatever reason they get messed about with, some more than others
sometimes it's hard to fathom what was going through the minds of past owners

[Jamie N]

I found the slightest change in anything concerning the window adjustment could be be the difference between a smooth action and a juddering halt.
As a general rule of thumb, move one thing at a time and gauge the effect it has, it's very easy to find yourself in the what the did I do there situation
When I rebuilt mine I tried different types rollers (material), all of which ended up being thrown violently into the bin, it seemed like a good idea at the time
Also I disconnected the window glass from the central slider just to see how the sliders felt manually pushing and pulling the glass up and down, if this isn't smooth then your in serious .
Without a doubt when the car left the factory they are set up the best they can be, then over time for whatever reason they get messed about with, some more than others
sometimes it's hard to fathom what was going through the minds of past owners

Totally agree with that Steve, what you also need to remember is the complete setup is dated and in comparison with modern designs is
basic to say the least. When I have been in the big yard I have often looked at the window regulators on many different makes and models of
newer cars with a view to updating the ones in the Elan, some I have seen look like real possibilities.

Both of my doors are stripped internally at present, probably no better time than now to put some more investigative work into them.

[Chas54]

Ive been trying to sort my drivers side window for a week now and ive now got it back together and no sticking.
I was driven to this after my newley acquired 91 car, glass got stuck under the seal. It appears it has happened in the past as there are a couple of chips on the top edge of the window that match the seal screw positions. Anyway my seal was grotty so I thought I would change it at the same time. On refitting the glass I was unable to get a smooth ,non stick slide so I took everything out. I watched some guy on you tube change the seal and this helped no end .
The front slider had to have the lower bracket removed and the regulator undone and moved forward to juggle all the bits out. After thorough cleaning examination revealed the rear two sliders to be wobbly when fitted and the retaining screws tightend. The front ones had no play. I think this caused the stall of the back edge of the window when raising. I have replaced with two new ones from SJ sportscars and there is no play in these when mounted on the little steel plllars and tightend up. They are still moveable but just not laterally wobbling on the pillar. I think it must have been wear in the hole of the original sliders .

I did clean out the actuator gearing and observed the cable drum is slightly distorted from the anticipated perfect circular and on running the exposed gear and drum, its clear where the pulsating noise originates when operating the window. I greased it all up with LM2 grease, a white Lithium based product I had laying around. First reassembly and adjustment made as per the you tube video and a nice smooth up and down motion. Still got the oscillating sound but I'm convinced its the cable drum shape and after paying the postage for the two sliders I couldn't afford a new regulator.

I have to say this was all a lot easier than I thought it would be . There is some great advice on this forum.

[djwazza68]

Can anyone give me a tip to get the wire back on the centre slider for the regulator? It seems to be too short to reconnect both wire end stops and get it over the pulley wheels. Pretty crap design that it can't be tightened in situ, or do I have to take the motor gearbox apart to get it to loosen enough to go on?

Please tell me that I just need brute force and hot wires or something easy!

[Fredjohn]

Brute force and flexing of the metal frame should do it. Definitely try to avoid taking cable off main motor drum.

Put ends in first, then flex cable over the pulleys.

[djwazza68]

Completed the rebuild with lots of swearing, only to discover that I had reversed the orientation of the motor. It went back together much more easily once I got it the correct way round!