whirling sound?? help/suggestions

[tedtaylor]

my 2nd owner M100 w/65K miles, brand new Bridgestone tires, new brake pads, well maintained and drives flawlessly......however

I have a whirling sound at speed. increases/decreases directly with speed. most notable at 20-40 MPH range. quiet at slow speed and fast speed. NO vibrations, NO clicking, clunking or other strange sounds.

Sound was present with previous well worn tires and actually the ride overall is much better, quieter, smoother with the new tires, thus contributing to accentuate the whirling noise (it's now more noticeable than before).

I fear either CV joint or carrier bearings, but my boots are perfectly sealed and no leakage of grease/fluids. There is slight wobble (up and down) by hand of the "tulip" case?

it's been present a long time but more noticeable now with new tires, so I don't think it is an emergency situation. I have a cross country trip planned for next month and plan to drive it (New Jersey to Nevada and back).

Any direct first hand knowledge of similar experience and/or suggestion of what i'm to look for or repair/replace???

if there's no leakage from boot, is "re-greasing/re-packing" of the CV joints still necessary as regular maintenance, or are they to be left alone?

thanks
TED

[John_W]

Just to rule out the 5th gear problem, put a stethoscope or screwdriver against the gearbox end casing while the engine is running and listen.

With the benefit of hindsight, I believe that the slight “whirring” sound coming from my engine was probably the input gear contacting the output gear dog-ring and oil gutter bolt heads. Unbelievably for what was happening, the sound was very subtle and could not be heard on the move, but it definitely sounded “wrong”.

See here for the gory details.

John

[lotustonybassplayer]

normally with the wheel bearings failing, you can tell which side when taking bends, the sound increases or fades with the loading up of the suspension. also increase of speed and noise in harmony points to the bearings I would say.

[John_W]

Wheel bearings is a good suggestion.

[tedtaylor]

actually in retrospect, it sounds exactly like wheel bearing noise, but I just find it hard to believe 65K miles of normal road driving would wear out the bearings. Is it a matter of age? as opposed to actually wear and tear?
sounds like a bear of a job and special equipment needed to do?
but I guess it's better than dealing with the CV joint/axles?

[John_W]

I let a garage do mine. Around 70,000 miles.

[lotustonybassplayer]

you will need a press, had to do one of mine, just a case of undoing nuts and bolts to remove the hub and then took it to a mate who had a press to remove/refit. only a gm bearing not expensive about 20 quid prob the same in dollars i would guess ?

[tedtaylor]

reading over the procedure, my only concern is pulling the hub carrier off from the driveshaft axle end itself. Does it just slip off leaving drive shaft in place? or does it have to be hammered (pulling hub carrier, leaving drive shaft in place)?

[Brit-Car-Nut]

The driveshaft should just pull out of the bearing in the carrier.

Since it could be tight, you need to avoid pulling on the carrier without pushing the driveshaft inward at the same time so you don't damage / tear the gaiter/boot.

You shouldn't have to "beat the shaft inward, but it may require a bit of gentle tapping. Be careful to avoid damaging the thread on the driveshaft. Use a lead hammer or a block of wood when "tapping" the shaft.

Here is the section on bearing replacement:

Hub Bearing Replace.jpg

Hub-Bearing Assembly picture.jpg

[tedtaylor]

thanks Brit! do you know the bearing numbers or cross reference to NAPA/RockAuto or other?

[wayne]

thanks Brit! do you know the bearing numbers or cross reference to NAPA/RockAuto or other?

Check the Wiki Ted. Wiki - wheel bearings I've used the SKF number the last time I replaced my front wheel bearings.

[Brit-Car-Nut]

This is the list from Rock Auto.

CENTRIC 41249000E C-TEK; Ball Bearing - Double Row

BMW 318I 1984-1985
BMW 318TI 1995-1999
BMW 325E 1984-1986
BMW 325ES 1986
BMW M3 1988-1991
BMW Z3 1996-1998
DAEWOO LANOS 1999-2002
DAEWOO NUBIRA 1999-2002
FORD FIESTA 2014-2019
LOTUS ELAN 1990-1992
PONTIAC LEMANS 1989-1990

Theoretically, you should be able to have any company cross reference the CENTRIC number to another brand.

I see bearings from $12.00 to $75.00. AS long as it is a NAME brand, a bearing is a bearing.

A lot of the bearings on the WIKI are UK brands and not available over here.

The SKF number is BAHB 311396 B.

[roy666]

Hi all..rather than start a new trail.. I've tagged onto this one. I too have a rotational sound which is getting more prevalent, checked the wheel bearings..all good, checked CV boots and joints..all good. I think its the offside drive shaft, I can grip the shaft by hand and move it in and out (v slightly) of the engine/gearbox end. Is it supposed to do that? I know the shaft end splines do have some movement becuase of the wheel suspension. Any ideas? M

[Simon_P]

have you checked the link shaft bearing?

[roy666]

Hi Simin..No..not yet... thats the bit in the middle..right?

[Simon_P]

Yes it is in a cast iron housing.
From your earlier description - the shafts are held in by snap rings in grooves so shouldn't move far. None of the splines are tight so there is plenty of play. Also is it road or engine speed related?

[roy666]

Thanks Si...its road related. I've tried free wheeling, engine on in neutral...same sound; free wheeling engine off..still the same sound... .M