Rosie's return to glory

[Saltire]

HJ

I’ve done both (out the top and in at the bottom), although I’m afraid I didn’t measure the height. Sorry - it wasn’t a problem for me as I was in a borrowed barn at the time.

Of the two approaches, I think I preferred the ‘up from under’, as coming out from the top is very tight with the clamshell in place. However, If you use the underneath option, the gearbox mount can get in the way, so it’s not a pain free exercise by any means

[TorqueHorse]

I didn't measure while it was in the actual top-most position, but my engine is still on the hoist, and the car is still on the jacks, so I just measured everything and this is what I got:
The car is 35cm off the ground at the jack point (this allowed enough room for me to get under and release/inspect final things as needed).
From this position, It is 100cm to clear the top point of the clamshell, which for me are the headlights.
Add an extra 10cm for buffer clearance.
Bottom of transmission to top of intake/common chamber is ~70cm.
Chains, load leveler, and top of hoist add up to 60cm.
So total is 240cm from ground to top of hoist (which has buffer built in).
You could do it with less by lowering the car after you released the engine from it's mounts, having less buffer clearance over the clamshell, and maybe using less chain on your load leveler. And not that it should affect the measurements, but FYI, I am using a 1ton rated hoist with the control arm mounted in the 1/2ton position.

Maybe it was the the load leveler or I just got lucky, but it was easier than I expected to lift it out (just being by myself, and first time doing something like this). Yes, the clearance was tight, but the load leveler helped re-angle the pitch of the engine as needed so it could do its little snake dance out of the engine bay (up, tilt, up, tilt, down, tilt, up, up, etc).

[HJ2]

Thanks, top info!

I should be able to do this in the garage then

[TorqueHorse]

@HJ2, glad the hoist will fit!

Finally got the joint packed and a boot on. Had to take off the white disk and save it for later (if we can ever get a replacement boot that is the right length and convolute at the bell to accommodate it). Got some rust converter, primer, and top coat on the whole assembly to make it nice again.
From Blah

To Black


Tried to save the heater valve with a vinegar bath too. In addition to the rubber gate being completely gone, the kicker was some rust holes that emerged from under the crud in the top of the flange. Cheap enough on amazon fortunately to replace.

[TorqueHorse]

Just to make double sure before I straighten the prongeron, I'm looking for some reference measurements/observations on how the 4 suspension connection corners are in relation to when the thing is set on a flat surface.

I'm assuming that the right side and left side should be exactly the same height off the ground? And why are all my search results now about "redneck frame straightening"?

[HJ2]

Here's the lazy answer.
The one of the Steel blue:

measurements in millimeters!!!



In case it catches fire, or as a paper weight

[TorqueHorse]

Awesome, thanks @HJ2!
Just to recap what I see in your photos (in the order of the photos):

Right side, front: 14.9 mm
Right side, rear: 16.8 mm

Left side, rear: 17.4 mm
Left side, front: 15.8 mm

Very helpful

[Neil D.]

Do we have different glasses?

14.9 mm
16.8 mm
17.4 mm
15.8 mm

Please tell me

Neil

[TorqueHorse]

Doh!
I don't have glasses, maybe that is the problem, thanks!


-updated, thanks @Neil

[dapinky]

Neil is correct -(according to my glasses!) - but this is one of the reasons I would rather used digital calipers than vernier when showing just a picture......

..... there are plenty of guys out there who just have never (or maybe not for many years since leaving school) experienced the vernier scale.

[TorqueHorse]

Ha, I trained in architecture, so the measurements (and instruments) were usually an order of magnitude beyond the precision of calipers, and mine are digital now, so yeah, very rusty on analog readings. BUT now I've learned my new skill for the day, thanks!

[HJ2]

Analogue works all the time boys!
I have a couple of digital ones as well... but always with a flat battery, then you can do the readings +/- 1mm
I'll keep it with a nonius thank you very much.

[378S2]

I’ve got a few dents on my own longeron, I thought originally they were from jacking but I’m pretty sure it’s road bumps.

[TorqueHorse]

I’ve got a few dents on my own longeron...

Easy mistake, but you probably mean Prongeron (aka the Engine bay underframe)?
Longerons are on the right and left sides; Long, like arms and the shoulders for the front.
Prongeron is just the one thing on the bottom that sticks out, like, err... an Engine bay underframe should?

[HJ2]

I’ve got a few dents on my own longeron, I thought originally they were from jacking but I’m pretty sure it’s road bumps.

What about the oil pan then?

[378S2]

Yes there too, but neither are serious - something to fix if I ever take them off but not in need of attention otherwise.

[TorqueHorse]

Been removing and starting to clean more of the engine pieces.
Took a quick look at the camshaft and couldn't see any obvious worn edges or pitting, etc.


Got the exhaust manifold off and I did find a couple of hairline cracks, that I guess I'll plan to use JB Weld high-heat to fill.


Don't know how I'll get these guys out.


And the current stumper is getting the turbo manifold studs out of the turbo. Hoping to borrow a welder from a neighbor to get something on there to then leverage. But one of the studs already sheared when a nut got stuck, so I'm worried that will happen again. And I wasn't even planning on rebuilding this now anyway, I just wanted to put some anti-seize on there to make it easier when I'm ready, but I've discovered that the tips of some of these studs are missing threads. Why was oil leaking from the return and why was someone in here before? Blah, scope creep piling up.

[HJ2]

I can smell the lovely scent of a turbo rebuilt!

The exhaust manifold is a useless piece of s...
And there is ample space for an alternative.

If your exhaust scapes over the speed humps, the mechanical stress does not help in aging well.

[dapinky]

And the current stumper is getting the turbo manifold studs out of the turbo. Hoping to borrow a welder from a neighbor to get something on there to then leverage. But one of the studs already sheared when a nut got stuck, so I'm worried that will happen again. And I wasn't even planning on rebuilding this now anyway, I just wanted to put some anti-seize on there to make it easier when I'm ready, but I've discovered that the tips of some of these studs are missing threads. Why was oil leaking from the return and why was someone in here before? Blah, scope creep piling up.

The big advantage of the uneven length of the studs is that you can weld a piece of flat bar on the longest one, and have enough clearance to unwind it without other studs getting in the way...

... then the next one and so on (you may need to trim the length of a short one, but it is the way I have done it previously.

The studs thread gets destroyed because of the type of nuts used in the installation - they are sort-of ratcheted so they will do up, but not undo easily, except by ripping the thread from the stud.

You may find it useful to read the document in the manuals section (link at top of page) on rebuilding the IHI turbo, it may help with some of your issues.

[TorqueHorse]

I can smell the lovely scent of a turbo rebuilt!

You may find it useful to read the document in the manuals section (link at top of page) on rebuilding the IHI turbo, it may help with some of your issues.

Thanks Dave. Oh, I have been reading it, and it's how I've gotten this far . Invaluable, just not what I was expecting to be digging into right now
Your notes about the threads coming off is what tipped me that someone has been here before. That, and the jagged mess that some of the heatshields have been hacksawed into...

I'm going to be so bored once this car is restored