Brisbane Elan - recommission or rebuild, you be the judge!

[Owen L]

Doing the job is within the reach of anyone with the time and patience (and with a few tools) - you just need to decide if the cost is worth the time to you.

Having done it a fair few times, I can do it easily in less time than they say, and you are likely to find a few other 'little cleaning jobs' as you go, which they wouldn't bother with. So, if you can earn $145/hour doing your own work, it is cost effective to pay someone.... but if you can only earn $30/hour, it is worthwhile doing it yourself!

Dave, you make a lot of sense. I'm confident i can do all the tool work. and as you say, i'll probably pick up on other stuff along the way. (PAS comes to mind) i struggle to earn $100 an hour but id rather do the work i think. My only twitch is getting the timing right. The Cam pulleys lock in place i think, so its really about ensuring the crank pulley is set perfectly. I've already read a few folks experiences and it does seem like its ok so long as you take your time. something I'm famous for i m told!

Just heard from SJ via email - waiting on the thermostat to come in

Just heard from Amber - ive requested an invoice which hopefully will come in overnight.

not heard from Coolex, but too late for me to call now. tomorrows job then to chase up.

[Simon_P]

The missing item is probably the tensioner spring.

At least with the time delay for parts to arrive you can put easing oil on all of the bolts, then wonder how you are going to get a spanner on them.

[dapinky]

The trick I use with the cam timing (on all cars, not just the elan!)....

.... lock the camshaft pulleys in place, but then you will have removed the bottom pulley, so can't (quickly) check that the crank is still at TDC.....

... never mind, the old belt is still on.

Take a small (artist) paintbrush (or do you have Tipex in Australia like we do? - with a brush in the lid?) - put a dap of white paint on the crank pulley, and on the belt at the same tooth......

.... mark each cam pulley/belt the same way....

remove belt and ley the new one on top of it, transfer the markings on the old one, to the same teeth of the new one......

... fit belt with all 3 markings lining up, then tension it up.

That way, you will always get the 3 cam gears in sync, and the only variable is the tension.

(note that it only works for 1 revolution in 159 after fitting! - due to the odd number of teeth on the belt, if you rotate the engine 1 turn of the camshafts (2 of the crank), none of the marks will line up - it is not a fault!)

[378S2]

Sorry I couldn’t solve your hose problem Owen, but I can solve your thermostat problem as I bought two when I did mine. Also have various other bits I’ve started hoarding so I’ll keep an eye out on the jobs you’re doing and let you know if I can help shorten the wait. How’s your electric recirc pump? Short the fan switch with the ignition off to find out. I’m swapping mine but the old one is fine so if you need it shout. I have various sensors etc.

Interested in the cam belt job. I’ve got two years left to run... I want to do it myself but that would be the most adventurous automotive job I’ve done - but in two years I can surely prep myself!

SJ have been excellent for me, but they are sometimes very busy and that makes the time from order to dispatch quite long. Right now I bet the UK owners are mobilising the fleet so that’ll slow things down.

[Fredjohn]

Great call by dapinky about marking the cambelt and transferring the marks to the new belt. That's exactly what I did 2nd time around. Pretty much guarantees correct fitment.

[Rambo]

Oooooo. An email from SJ just dropped - back in a mo. He must start early, its barely 8am in uk i think.

Ok, I've paid that bill. Basically i ordered the timing belt, the other belts and a few bolts. Oh and a water pump. They removed one item from my list but didn't tell me what it was? odd. I've sent an email asking. also its 3 weeks to post them, even though they are in stock. Confused. Maybe he means he can get them in. no desperate urgency but good to know its not a fast process ordering from there.

I will admit to spending a long time scrolling through what is available from SJ. Reminds me of Partzilla where i can spend hours ordering bolts for the bikes

Big mistake. You could've got all these parts for approx. a third of the price you paid SJS. And cheaper postage/faster delivery times.

The company is called Rockauto and based in the USA. Great company to deal with and very efficient. I have ordered approx 10 cambelt kits and associated parts over the last 16 years (I did a mini group buy for some of our Clan McElan owners) or so and never had any duff parts or been disappointed with their service

Have a look here...viewtopic.php?f=33&t=27994&p=363162&hilit=Rock+auto#p363162

[Saltire]

Glad to see you’ve got the picture upload sorted!

For future reference, Rock Auto in the US are very good for parts which were used on other cars of the period. I generally get my timing belts etc there. Their shipping is normally fairly quick too - I get stock stuff in about a week direct from US. The only thing to beware of is that they sometimes ship from multiple warehouses, and so you can end up paying several sets of postage. Worth a try though.

I got my ignition leads from Kingsborne in the US. Have a word with Kris Richter, kris@kingsborne.com, +1 706 736 4020 - very helpful.

If you don’t have any luck with Amber performance for the Samco hoses, Merlin Motorsport also do them; +44 1249 782101.

The powder coater and the copper grease supplier will soon be your two best friends


EDIT: Simultaneous posting with Mark about Rock Auto!!

[Owen L]

20/04/21

appreciate the comments.

in no particular order.

Spent a bit of time on Rockauto and yes it did look cheaper but was much harder to find the parts i thought i needed. not a good enough reason and i will try harder. I won't consider it to be a "Big mistake" though. They didn't have everything i wanted (or that i could find anyway) so i was going to end up getting some parts from SJ. I sense they are considered expensive by a lot of folk on here. Live and learn.

Tippex idea - i like this a lot and does pretty much guarantee not being a tooth out. So i will do that. I also read someone liked to remove the RHS suspension arm to make the job easier. Thoughts on that? I think I will remove the PAS pipes as i have to change the fluid anyway.

Should i order the crank pulley bolt to refresh it? its not cheap but could be worth it? Thoughts there?

The missing parts was the thermostat and gasket. I might ask them to send them anyway, given the offer from Perth - Cheers for that.

Coolex - no word at all, sent a follow up email to see if they got the order. Might even make a real phone call!

Samco from Amber - no discounts offered for being on LEC - oh well. They offered the hose clamps as well. I hope these are those huge generic ones. This car is hard enough without giant clips.

Leads - invoice paid, they are on the way, not that my leads are terrible but has to be a good thing to have new ones. Must decide on cheapest place to buy coils - maybe back to Rockauto?

Oh, looked at PNM or PMN? Exhaust. Seems reasonably priced and rumours of a 20hp power hike? would it just work with the turbo? Reading some folk were experiencing Boost creep or something. Way outside my understanding. Is this about reduced back pressure form a bigger pipe? I might try to message someone who has posted about this system. The dodgy connection of my current muffler can get patched up for now though.

Really want to start cleaning the car a bit more. so much grit on the paint. so need to wash it carefully without touching it first to remove as many contaminants as possible before i start with the clay.

[Saltire]

Couple of comments: if you have the PAS pipes off, it’s worth checking them carefully and getting them remade. Not available new anymore, but somebody like Pirtek will make up new hoses using your old end fittings, which is what I did.

Don’t bother buying the crank bolt from SJs; I did, and it’s made of this best quality raw material

Recommend a good old-fashioned phone call with Coolex!

[378S2]

Rock Auto in the US are very good for parts which were used on other cars of the period.

Just logged in to Rock Auto to have a poke about and I couldn’t find any cam belt related things. What am I doing wrong?

[Simon_P]

Look under timing rather than cam.

Good that the spring is available again then.

[dapinky]

I have 2 sets of 'searches' for use on RocakAuto (and other USA) websites....

Isuzu > 1991 > Impulse > 1.6 Turbo

&

Oldsmobile > 1989 > Cutlass Supreme > 3.1 V6

The first is for engine (mechanical) parts (not ignition leads, as the coil packs are in a different place, so lengths don't suit us), Gearbox parts....

..... the second for rear brake callipers/repair kits/pads/parts (but bear in mind that GM used a calliper on the left, when Lotus use it on the right - so look for the side you don't want!).

They can usually deliver here within 72 hours - and I suspect the delivery to Aus won't be a lot different on either cost or time (but I may be very wrong, so don't quote me).

I have found over the years that 'odd' things differ between the Isuzu application and the Lotus application - ie, the belts for PAS and Altenator are slightly different lengths to allow the unit to fit without hitting the bulkhead - only an inch, but makes all the difference (apparently ) - so worth checking the Wiki which has the details of what is needed.

Certainly, I have a 'standard' list of parts I buy from them:- Dayco Timing belt kit, with belt, tensioner and idler - waterpump with gasket, PAS belt, Altenator belt, Thermostat..... usually lands on my doorstep after 3 days and costs vary with exchange rate etc, but IRO £70 all in.

[378S2]

Dave thank you that’s really helpful. Looks like they have some stock challenges at the moment. I’ve set up an alert and will get a timing kit once they’re available.

[Owen L]

30/04/21

short update.

The timing belt and pulleys have arrived from SJ. They used DHL and they arrived very quickly. 4 days max id say. i have yet to open the package/

The radiator is en-route. It had to be painted first but UPS estimate 05/05/21 delivery. UPS not nearly as fast as DHL but not a drama.

Coolant hoses are "in build" so 6 weeks to go at least there.

Leads ordered, will turn up at some point i guess. Chap seemed communicative enough although im not sure i got a tracking number - could chase but not worried for another week or so.

Car starts and i can move it into the middle of the garage to work on during the weekends. not running it for more than about 30 sec from cold.

Started in on the paintwork as the local garage had 25% off "Bowdens Own" a local family product which seems ok.

This is my process for getting the pain clean, yours may well be different of course.

Wash car very gently and dry with a light rub of a large microfibre cloth
apply Ta Ta Tar to areas that feel bumpy to chemically remove contaminants
claybar area using detailing fluid and claybar
ScratchX 2.0 to give it a bit of a cut. tread lightly
two coats of polish

comes up like glass and given its original paint and its fairly sunny here in Brisbane, I'm pretty happy with this process.

Not much else to report. hoping to put the radiator in next weekend as I'm away this weekend.

Love the car.

[378S2]

Bugger - sorry my friend I forgot to post that thermostat. We should be back in the offices next week so I’ll get it sorted.

[Owen L]

Bugger - sorry my friend I forgot to post that thermostat. We should be back in the offices next week so I’ll get it sorted.

All good. Easy enough to change out the thermostat. one of the few items you can actually get to easily enough.

Spent the afternoon watching Toby remove the front suspension. makes it look so easy. Already dreaming of a 60cm Breaker Bar!

[Simon_P]

It's quite straightforward if the top balljoint bolts are not rusted into the balljoint.

I recall that part of Toby's video is incorrect. The copper grease on the rod at the top is not for the suspension to rotate. The bushes should be clamped up as described in the manual. Copper grease is so that you can get it apart.

dreaming of a 60cm Breaker Bar!

dream big the hub nut is tight and goes with a crack.

[378S2]

Easy enough to change out the thermostat.

Get some WD40 on the bolts a few times while you’re waiting - I sheered one of the bolts. But unless that happens it’s very straight forward.

[Owen L]

11/05/21

On Sunday I managed a test fit of the new radiator from Coolex (Packaging was first class, these guys seem excellent). It slides up easily enough into its slot. Bit of wiggling needed and one Y support needs a bit of moving to allow the top hose joint to clear all the way up. I may loosen out the last bolt on that Y. The upper mount lugs grommets are still there and i re-seated one before attempting to fit. It went in to the holes in a bit of a sudden move and i got excited that it was "in" however later inspection showed it had popped one of the grommets through the cross member. So I might drop it out and fit them onto the spigots and offer it up. Equally these are the original rubber and the new ones i have from SJ might be a tighter fit and thus stay in their location as i push it up. I hooked up both pipes and checked the hose clamps are easy to tighten from underneath. Hoses themselves are not too hard to fit. The upper one is harder as the access is tighter. I did it all from beneath. The car would really benefit from being much higher on stands for this stuff.

I then undid them as i realised i should flush the system properly before my shiny new radiator was used. I ran the garden hose through the overflow pipe but my brain wouldn't process if that was going through the water jacket in the block. suspecting not, it ran clear after about half a bucket of cold water.

Last night i carefully loosened the thermostat housing bolts. Top one was tight, bottom one very little torque needed. Gasket has clearly been put on relatively recently. Thermostat itself looks fine but at $20 for a new one from a local shop, i will replace it. Need the gasket or could cut one. Tonight i can run the hose st into the water jacket and it should go right through and emerge -hmm. i need to read up on what pipe goes where a bit more.

Bottom Radiator mount needs to go off to powdercoat. And a few other bits as well from the headlight area. I might get some stuff plated as i rebuild the headlights. Either way, it should be running happily with an effective cooling system quite soon. Samco hoses still 6 weeks away. Plenty to do until they arrive in the next holiday block. so good timing there.

still very taken with the car.

[Elantastic]

Have you tested the Radiator Fans are working ? The originals sometimes cease. They can be tested without running the car but with the ignition on using a paperclip in the radiator fan switch connector and shorting it on the thermostat housing. Making sure nothing is close to the fans before the test