No 5th gear or reverse gear

[johnj]

Hi

The car that keeps on giving just produced again. When I went to collect the car tonight there was no reverse gear. On the way home I realised there was no 5th gear either. Any idea where I should start looking or what might be wrong.

[dapinky]

It sounds like one of 2 problems.....

Most likely, it could be that the cross-gate gear selector cable has gone out of adjustment, and needs to be set correctly (or worst case scenario, the cable is beyond repair and will need replacing). I have generalised a lot with this, as much will depend on which cables you have fitted.....

....OE SE/NA cables are set by use of a bayonet-type plastic fitting at the bracket on top of the bell housing, S2 ones are adjusted in the same place, but by use of 2 nuts (similar to adjusting the handbrake cables)..... Aftermarket cables (AB/BB or JC are all adjusted in a similar way to the S2 cables).

It isn't unheard of for the nuts (or plastic bayonet fitting) to come loose with age/use, so it may just need re-setting - even if the plastic fitting is broken, it can be 'repaired' with a bit of bracketry and some glue - but the best results will be to replace the cable(s) for something newer.

The 2nd (unlikely) problem is that the selector box has something jamming it from moving over to the 5th/Rev position. I had this with mine and it was the rollpin which holds the Reverse indent cam to the shaft.... fixed in a layby with basic tools. If that is the case, you need to remove the selector housing from the gearbox (a few bolts and prise it upwards as the gasket will have stuck it in place by now) and examine it.

First thing is to establish if you can get reverse by moving the selector pivots at the gearbox end - if you can, then the problem is the cable (or gearstick mechanism bushes), if you can't, then it is the selector box.

Does the gearstick go all the way over to the right, but just not far enough to engage the 5th/Rev gears or does it not move over that far?

[johnj]

Thanks for the reply Dave

The car is an S2 so I assume it has the S2 cables. I will look tomorrow.
I think the gear lever moves all the way over as it should. It seemed as though the gear lever went up and over from 4th to what should be 5th but is actually 3rd. The lever seems to have a LOT of play in it, it does not appear to be solid in any gear

[dapinky]

John,

Is this the only Elan that you have driven, or do you have anything to compare it to? I ask only because the gear stick can appear to be a bit 'soggy' on all of them (but we get used to it).... or has it got worse?

The bushes at the gearstick end can wear with age/use so may be a bit past their best, but I would still expect it to be the cross-gate cable adjustment.

[johnj]

Hi Dave

I think the cable may be beyond adjustment, see photo, I could not upload the pic but cable is actually rusted through. The next question is do you know anything about the cables SJ Sportscars sell. Their own cables are a lot cheaper than the Lotus originals. If I went for the Lotus original, their price point would put John's short shift kit on the list. I am leaning towards the cheapest option but am open to persuasion. Is the fitting the lines a d.i.y job?

[HJ2]

Go for the full monty, you will not regret it
(Upratet cables + Shortshift)
Beats OEM stuff !

[Saltire]

I fitted John C’s replacement cables and short shift kit to my S2 a couple of years ago, and have never regretted it. Expensive, but well worth the money. They come with full instructions, and if I can fit them, anyone can!

They are much stronger and better made than the originals, and John does a lot of work pre-adjusting them on a car before he sends them to you. I don’t think he has many kits left in the current batch, so if you go down that route, it would be worth doing it sooner rather than later.

You can find John as member M100-NC on here, and he prefers email rather than PM.

[dapinky]

I am one of the very few who is still using the original SE cables with a short-shift, and not broken the OE cables!

I think that the S2 cables are good enough, BUT they are not as good as Johns' cables (in materials, manufacture & use). I have no idea on the SJ 'alternative' offerings as I have neither seen nor heard of anyone else using them.

The 'short-shift' is a matter of personal taste - 95% of owners love them (I am in the other 5% who feels indifferent, so don't necessarily take my word on it).

Fitting cables can be fiddly, but not actually difficult, and if you follow Johns description (which applies to all of the cables types when it comes to routing them through to/from the engine bay) then it should work for you at home.

[esprit888]

The celery stick in a tub of mayonnaise feel you describe when shifting sounds very much like either the ball end of the cable on the bracket has popped out or broken, or the adjustment nut(s) have come loose. I would start there as the S2 cables are a lot stronger than the SE which are plastic and typically break due to becoming brittle and the angle they are required to move. Loosen the coolant header tank and move it out of the way (no need to drain it) this gives you a much better view of the cables and the bracket mounted on the engine (SE and S2 brackets are NOT the same in case you were thinking of switching).

[johnj]

The cable has snapped See photo which hopefully has uploaded this time. I have ordered a short shift kit from John C. So hopefully all good next week. Thanks for the help.

[johnj]

Hi

When I fit the short shift kit is there any consensus as to which setting for "shift motion reduction" is the best ratio?

[M100-NC]

Hi

When I fit the short shift kit is there any consensus as to which setting for "shift motion reduction" is the best ratio?

Not really.

It is a small movement if you choose one of the other setttings, but you can try the other holes to see if it really makes the throw shorter or longer than the middle hole.

I never figured out a way to offer much change for the crossgate but if you really want to shorten the crossgate throw more, you just have to drill a new 5/16" rod end hole closer to the center pivot.

All of the parts are in SAE inch increments.

I think there is enough thread at the cables and rod ends to effectively shorten the cables a bit so the shifter can remain in the center of the pattern.

JC