Gauge face plates

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Gauge face plates

Postby Hector2021 » Thu 22.08.2024, 11:24

As a number of people have commented on how to fix their "starry night" gauges, the only real solution is to replace the offending dial face plate.
I just noticed they are available again via ebay. I have used the same to remedy my boost gauge and can confirm they are spot on for fitment etc.
They are expensive of course so maybe order the set then sell the ones you dont need on LEC at a pro-rata rate?
Link below (not affiliated to it in any way)
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/285928983857 ... media=COPY
NMY 1995 S2 No:490
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Re: Gauge face plates

Postby Tuga2112 » Thu 22.08.2024, 15:01

very ouchy in price.

make me wonder if theres a possivility of making a 3d print of a lithograph for them... :roll:
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Re: Gauge face plates

Postby FunElan » Thu 22.08.2024, 15:41

If someone has a vector file, I can make them out of thick cardstock and we can just poke holes for the light to come through :-D
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Re: Gauge face plates

Postby Alexwils » Thu 19.09.2024, 16:45

Before I embark down this expensive route I thought I'd have a go at painting them back in however I've managed to get the gauge out but no idea how to get the glass off. What's the nack?
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Re: Gauge face plates

Postby Hector2021 » Thu 19.09.2024, 19:45

Alex, if you have extracted the gauge(s) from the dash then you have completed tricky phase No1. Tricky phase No2 is the glass removal, but its quite possible. The black bezel that holds the glass to the plastic body is metal and you need to gently prise it off the body by using a sharp edged tool (small screwdriver) to slowly work your way around the back crimped edge to 'peel' the bezel away from the flange on the body.
The body is usually quite brittle by now and may even already have small cracks in it. If youre firm but gentle in your approach you will manage it easier than you think. I applied a bit of pressure to the two sides of the body between my fingers of one hand while prising the bezel at 90 degrees to where i was gently squeezing. My thought process was to keep it cylindrical shaped for strength rather than let the pressure from the prising action allow the cylinder to collapse. Not sure if that was really necessary, but it worked for me.
Keep trying to separate the two parts and you will eventually free them without having to prise the full 360 degrees round. If you do crack the case it really shouldnt be a big problem as you can repair with an araldite type adhesive and it wont be seen anyway once returned to the dash. There are a few write ups on the forum of how people attacked this same issue if you do a search.
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