by dapinky » Mon 26.08.2024, 11:13
Steve,
Whilst Joao is quite right that the cables are a likely suspect (particularly the plastic adjuster mechanism which can either come loose or break/crack) - the first thing to check is if it is a gearbox issue, or a cable/gearstick issue.
You will need a helpful assistant (or anyone else you can bribe into helping) - have them operate the gearstick inside the car whilst you observe the other end of the cables at the gearbox selector mechanism..... you need to see if the cables are actually pushing/pulling the lever(s) as they should. If the levers are moving as they should, then it is an internal issue with the gearbox (or selector box).
So, you need to remove the cable connections from the levers and see if you can manually select each gear by using a screwdriver/pliers/magic wand on the gearbox selectors.
This will 'prove' that the issue is in the cables/gearstick (but it may well be obvious without doing the last step - included for completion of the diagnostic process).
If it is in the gearbox, then it is a much more complex process, but I would expect it to be between the driver and the box.
Whilst the helpul assistant is moving the gearstick fore/aft one lever should move, and when going side to side, the other should..... this may help to narrow down which cable is defective (it may be both, but usually one will go before the other).
If it is an early car (SE/NA/FED) then there are plastic 'sleeves' to adjust the cable relative length - they are attached to a bracket towards the bulkhead on the gearbox.... may be hard to see, but feel along the cable to find them. They are actually a very simple bayonet fitting, so if you feel that one (or both) will turn, then they may just need doing up by hand (with the cables in the right place - but I'll come to that in a mo). If they appear to be tight, then loosly hold the cable between whatever fingers you can get in there, whilst the assistant moves the stick - you are trying to feel for any longitudinal movement in the outer casing relative to the bracket - there should be none, with all the movement in the inner cable. If there is movement, then either the plastic fittings are cracked/broken (or has become detached and slid down the cable) or they are worn past the point where they will tighten up in the right place.
If cracked/broken you are in need of a new cable, or need to 'repair' the old one with a supporting bracket (made out of bent metal and jubilee clips - details to follow if necessary!!!!).
If it just needs re-assembly, then ensure the gearbox is in neutral, and have the assistant hold the stick in a central position (neutral fore/aft, and 3rd/4th side-to-side) At this point the cables should be unstressed, and you simply hold one half of the fitting whilst turning the other through 1/4 turn to lock it in place. You may need some slight adjustments later on if you find the stick isn't where you like it. or it is hard to get certain gears.
If you have aftermarket cables (or S2 cables) then the adjustment is in the same place, but achieved by way of 2 large nuts - same as handbrake cable adjustment.
If none of this finds the problem, it may be wear to the pivots and joints at the base of the gearstick, but that is far more likely to gradually worsen than to suddenly occur.
Dave
Just the one now, but this one's mine! - and it will be finished eventually..... - but also temporary custodian of a project until it is finished enough for Angie to drive it
...oh, and a 2006 Freelander destined for the jungles of The Gambia - 4500 miles across roads, desert and tracks - what could possibly go wrong?
