Up-stop cone - siezed

[M100TURBOFR]

Repairing window regulator. Can't get the up-stop cones off (screws damaged and siezed) to get window out. Any ideas apart from drilling the screws .

Also got a problem with the door glass (front end). The slider block is not fixed to (through) the glass (top & bottom), thereby securing glass to slider block. Is some kind of spigot & screw required to hold glass on to the slider block from the rear?

Thanks
David

[Saltire]

David

Have a look at Section BK3 in the Service Manual (available from the “Manuals” tab in the menu towards the top of this page. That has a good write-up of the window operation and parts. Most of the parts are available from SWLC in the UK, and Mark Elvin (formerly of this parish) sells the window to rail clips on eBay.

[Tuga2112]

i understand your dificulty

I Have experienced similar issues with the Green car driver's window

I Eventually used a dremel to make a slit across the stopbobin and into the bolt/screw in order to make a ridge that the flathead screwdriver coudl drive.
you can reach the back and hold the backing place with a little bit of elbow grease and vice grips or the correct size spanner (and the window height set just about right)

stop bobins should be available somewhere. but i personally found the price in SJ just ridiculous. so i 3d printed my own replacements for a fraction of the cost. not to mention they were installed before the mailmen could arrive with them.
th backing places did start to spin, and eventually came out., which i used a sicaflex alternative in order to glue back in

I prefer to destroy the stopbobins because in all honesty. i find that easier to replace than having to figure out who sells the backing plate/nuts. they are aluminium and very flat.

[M100TURBOFR]

Thanks Joao & Jonathan for replying. Can see I'll just have to persevere. Jonathan would you have the link for these clips? Without actually seeing them, can't really understand their purpose! Do these clips secure window to slider block?
Attached photo shows block which inserts into slide rail. Is there not a "spigot" that goes through glass from behind and screws into the white round plastic which is flush with the window glass?

As glass not secured to slider block (front end) I now see why window glass got stuck and why regulator motor burnt out.
Thanks David

[M100TURBOFR]

Hi again. Managed to get up-stone cones off (perseverance, drilling, hacksaw) but naturally they need to be replaced but window now out.
Attached is a photo showing the two holes (front end) to where the slider blocks are attached. One white "spigot type washer still in situ but screw missing. Other one lost.
Am I correct, in order to repair, in assuming that I only need another white "spigot" type washer and screws and I'll be able to attached the slider blocks to the window and then insert latter into the door glass guide?
Or do I require anything else like rubber washers, etc....?
Your help and advice greatly appreciated.
David

[Saltire]

Thanks Joao & Jonathan for replying. Can see I'll just have to persevere. Jonathan would you have the link for these clips? Without actually seeing them, can't really understand their purpose! Do these clips secure window to slider block?
Attached photo shows block which inserts into slide rail. Is there not a "spigot" that goes through glass from behind and screws into the white round plastic which is flush with the window glass?

As glass not secured to slider block (front end) I now see why window glass got stuck and why regulator motor burnt out.
Thanks David

I was talking about item 2 on this diagram - the butterfly clip. Mark (insight1972 on eBay) doesn’t seem to have any at present, but this is an alternative. They secure the window to the slider on the motor channel, and invariably break when you try to remove them

As you suspect, there’s a spigot which screws through the glass front and rear. The section of the manual I mentioned in my earlier post explains it fr more clearly than I ever could Have a look at that, because the spigots are different sizes, depending on where on the window you are.

[dapinky]

As another alternative, if you have access to a 3D printer, the .stl for the butterfly is on the Manuals page.....

[M100TURBOFR]

Jonathan
Thanks for reverting back. I've got the butterfly clips.
Looking at my photo showing the window with only one "spigot" (bottom hole - front) - other one missing - am I to understand that to repair I require another spigot/plastic bush and the countersunk screws to hold the slider bosses to the glass from behind. What numbers would these correspond to in the attached diagram?
Many thanks
David

[Saltire]

Hi David

These photos will hopefully help:

IMG_2570.jpeg

IMG_2568.png

IMG_2571.jpeg

IMG_2572.jpeg

To answer your specific question, the numbers are between 50 and 60 on your diagram. This picture and parts list is a bit clearer.

Note that the front upper boss (57) is slightly shorter than the other three.

As far as suppliers go, I got some of my parts from SJs, before they became more “challenging” to deal with. These days I’d use Mike Hopes at SWLC.

A couple of ‘suggestions’ (ask me how I know )

- be careful not to overtighten the screws and strip the nylon threads
- when you do, use a drop of Loctite or similar next time around
- on reassembly, never use normal grease on the runners. I used silicon spray.

Feel free to drop me an email if you need to know anything more specific.

Bonne chance!

[Tuga2112]

- on reassembly, never use normal grease on the runners. I used silicon spray.

now thats an interesting topic to dig into.
I wonder if "spray" is a good idea. as i was told it has a tendency to "soak up dirt"
I Have tried spray and my woindows are starting to jam just a year or 2 later.
silicone grease and white lithium grease are also options on my shelf. which i am thinkig of using te silicone grease next. and see what mileage i get. but not ruling out the possibility of white lythium yet

[dapinky]

In the past I have used vaseline, but nowadays, I'd use silicone grease........ ooh, err, Matron!

[Saltire]

- on reassembly, never use normal grease on the runners. I used silicon spray.

now thats an interesting topic to dig into.
I wonder if "spray" is a good idea. as i was told it has a tendency to "soak up dirt"
I Have tried spray and my woindows are starting to jam just a year or 2 later.
silicone grease and white lithium grease are also options on my shelf. which i am thinkig of using te silicone grease next. and see what mileage i get. but not ruling out the possibility of white lythium yet

Lithium didn’t work for me, João, but YMMV.

I started out with silicon grease, but found there was a bit too much stiction on the window movement for my taste. I’ve had no problems with the spray since I stripped and rebuilt the windows at the end of lockdown. I do use a long thin flexible tube to squirt a spot more into the three channels each year (working from the gap created when the window is down).

[M100TURBOFR]

Jonathan et al
Many thanks for your input on this subject. I already had these pages (useful information). Still trying to figure out what I require but still maintain that all I need are a plastic bush, rubber washers and a countersunk screw in order to mate the slider mounting bush with the front edge of the glass. Section BK page 11 para (iv) states "Assemble the slider mounting bosses to the front edge of the glass (concave side), using a plastic bush and countersunk screw fitted from the outboard (convex) side...."
Will keep you updated as I progress.
David

[Tuga2112]

david.

check your spam emails. i have received your emails but seems like your not getting my replies