Motor Rebuild – (hot-to-trot)

[Doc Fizzix]

Hmmm, could this check valve be the cause of my noisy tappets on start up

I would say you have an air bubble in a tappet or a tapped that is not filling with oil and holding it. I had the same problem on my first Elan and had to replace the tapped assembly.

[Doc Fizzix]

The head work is about done, the valves and seats have been cleaned up and re-surfaced. I am getting to the point that I will start putting things back together so I am now ordering some stronger valve springs. Since I planed on up upgrading the boost (1.2 -1.5 bar) I want to put in some stronger springs. I have talked with Don at R/D Valve Springs and I am going have him make a set of stronger springs with titanium caps. "The springs MUST to be stronger than the stock springs if you plan on inceasing the boost in order to make sure that the pistons do not catch-up to the valves from the increased boost presure pushing the valves down."

Note: I have edited this post from the original posting since I was not clear that the last part of this statement was what Don at R/D Valve Springs said to me on the phone. Please call him if you have questions

Here is a link:

http://www.rdvalvespring.com/

[Doc Fizzix]

The crank is going to be turned and polished, I have a set of performance bearings on the way. The manual states that the crank can not be turned, the crank is heat treated with a nitrate in order to make the crank harder. Buy turning the crank you loose this coating and the crank becomes too soft. I am actually having the crank turned then re-treated with nitrate, should be much better than the factory job. The nitrating process involved heating the crank to the point that it is glowing red and then filling a chamber with a nitrate compound. As the crank is heated and expands, the molecules of the crank expand, when the nitrate is pumped into the chamber, the small nitrate molecules bond to the crank and as the crank is cooled, the nitrate molecules are locked into place making the crank much harder. The heating, and cooling, process take several day so that the crank is not heated or cooled too quickly, this way the crank does not warp.

Having the crank turned will decease the friction and in theory the crank will turn easier.

[john]

The head work is about done, the valves and seats have been cleaned up and re-surfaced. I am getting to the point that I will start putting things back together so I am now ordering some stronger valve springs. Since I planed on up upgrading the boost (1.2 -1.5 bar) I want to put in some stronger springs. I have talked with Don at R/D Valve Springs and I am going have him make a set of stronger springs with titanium caps. The springs MUST to be stronger than the stock springs if you plan on inceasing the boost in order to make sure that the pistons do not catch-up to the valves from the increased boost presure pushing the valves down.

Here is a link:

http://www.rdvalvespring.com/

What's he charging you for the springs and what will the spring rates be?

I've talked to him before -- $$$$$$$

John

[Doc Fizzix]

You are right, MONEY-MONEY-MONEY

About $525.00

Well, you only live once and Don knows his stuff so I am going for it

Also looked into titanium valves but if I did that I would have to buy my wife a bigger wedding ring since the valves would have costed WAY more

[john]

You are right, MONEY-MONEY-MONEY

About $525.00

Well, you only live once and Don knows his stuff so I am going for it

Also looked into titanium valves but if I did that I would have to buy my wife a bigger wedding ring since the valves would have costed WAY more

daaaaaaaaaaaamn!

that's a poopload

[Doc Fizzix]

If you are goinng to use more boost, you better make sure the springs will pull the valves back up OR all the money you spent on the new motor could be lost $500.00 is not that much, plus that price includes new titanium retainers

[john]

If you are goinng to use more boost, you better make sure the springs will pull the valves back up OR all the money you spent on the new motor could be lost $500.00 is not that much, plus that price includes new titanium retainers

Let me know when you get 'em-- I"d love to see pics..

Currenlty getting my head ported, so have to get the valve springs soon.. there used to be an option before for 100lbers for $200 or so I think.. :\

[Doc Fizzix]

Just ordered and on its way

I had to order one for the 91-93 Isuzu Stylus since they do not list the Impulse but it is the same thing. I have been talking with Robie and he has confirmed that this is the same thing since the Stylus uses the same motor 4XE1

From Fidanza's web site

Fidanza flywheel can mate with any type of clutch material, including organic, kevlar, ceramic, metallic and sintered iron. We attach the friction surface with military grade aerospace fasteners. The ring gears are made from 1050 steel and are heat treated for durability. The gears are heated then pressed on and secured with grade 8 button screws. We were the first to use a stepped dowel system in most of our flywheel applications. This doweling method ensures that once the pressure plate is installed the dowels cannot be removed because they become locked into place. No chromemoly can compete with the awesome serviceability, strength and superior design of Fidanza's aluminum flywheels. If there was a better material out there, we would be using it.

[Monty]

nice

How much and where did u order it from?

[Doc Fizzix]

Thanks Monty. I paid $329.00 + $15.00 shipping so a total of $344.00 US

Monty, are you ready to sell me that Quaife yet?

[Doc Fizzix]

Also found this:

What Will An Aluminum Flywheel Do For Me?

- An aluminum flywheel is the best performance increase you can make to your street or race car.

- Using a lightweight, aluminum flywheel is a race proven way to improve the performance of any street or race car. Aluminum flywheels have been used for many years by the world's most elite cars to improve both useable horsepower and extend engine life.

- An aluminum flywheel is much lighter than obsolete and heavy factory flywheels.

- Engine life is also increased by using a Fidanza Flywheel. Since the Fidanza flywheel is so much lighter there is much less stress on the main bearings.

- Never have to resurface the flywheel Again. Simply replace the bolt-on steel friction surface.

- Car feels quicker, lighter, more responsive with a Fidanza Aluminum flywheel.

- Horsepower gains for aluminum flywheels can average 10 to 30 horsepower over stock levels at the drive wheels.

[Doc Fizzix]

Not sure about the last line:

average 10 to 30 horsepower over stock

But what the hell, it sounds nice

[Doug]

I don't want to throw wrenches around but what is the weight difference from stock to the other one . . . ??

Also with a little engine like ours you'll have to be more careful on the clutch from a stop to not stall the engine.

But they do look nice and shiny

[Doc Fizzix]

It is 50% ~ 55% lighter, about 8.5 lbs. I have been talking with several of our Isuzu brothers who have done this same upgrade and they love it and recommend it as one of the best upgrades they have done (those might be big words but I am about to find-out the truth when I get it in) . This is also the same flywheel that Dave_M put in his car. I personally talked with Fidanza and they have assured me that the original flywheel was overly designed and I should not have any problems or noticable change with the shifting and/or the idle of the vehicle.

Doug, you can be assured that since my background is in physics I was overly concerned about changing the mass of the flywheel and I totaly understand the importance of the flywheel, that is why I did a ton of research with this baby.

UPDATE!! (see posting on this page)

http://www.lotuselancentral.com/forum/v ... 5562#65562

[Doug]

I know you understand, but those claims you quoted above seem to have been written after a night of spirited drinking and are beyond the truth . . .

[Doc Fizzix]

I posted only with a little humor. (see my follow-up)

But what the hell, it sounds nice

This was the write-up from the website where I bought the flywheel, not Fidanza, I posted Fidanza's write-up first and then thought the second write-up was a little more exciting (even if the writer had two beers to many)

Oh well, fun bed time reading

[Ashaman]

Not to poop on this party, but I question some of this stuff....

That is a LOT of money to spend on springs. Many people have run a lot of boost on stock springs without problems, what is the dyno gain supposed to be with these and why would it occur?

In fact, I am a little fuzzy on the relation increased boost has on this at all. Stronger valve springs are typically done to compensate for engines running increased RPMs. The reason being that the faster the cams are spinning and throwing open a valve, the faster that valve has to slam shut before the next revolution of the cam lobe. If it doesn't happen, you experience "valve float" and will have blowback.

Now, given that boost can only occur on the compression stroke, this means the valves are already closed. If this is the case, how do stronger springs help? Am I missing something (entirely possible)?

Secondly, while a lighter flywheel can definitely make an engine more free-revving, I seriously doubt those numbers are proven on a dyno. In fact, if it is too light it is a really bad deal unless you are running a full-out racecar. It can kill low RPM driveablitity (surging/bucking). Some of the Isuzu people place importance on drag-racing...so make sure you don't go too light.

[Doc Fizzix]

Stronger valve springs are typically done to compensate for engines running increased RPMs. The reason being that the faster the cams are spinning and throwing open a valve, the faster that valve has to slam shut before the next revolution of the cam lobe. If it doesn't happen, you experience "valve float" and will have blowback.

With all forced air engines, the air pressure pushes the valves into the cylinder and if the air pressure is to large the valves do not come up fully and the pistons can hit the valve. Think about it, you are forcing air through the intake and the air is pushing hard on the backside of the valve as it goes into the cylinder, the spring has to be strong enough to "pull" the valve up and keep it closed.

[Doc Fizzix]

Ok, sorry I did not finish, I had to go play tennis. Went through three sets of strings in 45 min then ran out of rackets

Not to poop on this party, but I question some of this stuff....

Don't tell that to Dave_M or Costas, Dave has the same flywheel and Costas used the same line of thinking when he made his.

http://www.lotuselancentral.com/forum/v ... ht=fidanza

http://www.lotuselancentral.com/forum/v ... &start=200

Here is the deal, F=MA. With all cars the concept is that you have mass and you want to move it, the acceleration is the rate at which you "move it" or change its state of motion. The motor also follows this same principle (F=MA), there is a lot of mass within the motor that you have to "move" or accelerate in order to eventually accelerate the car, the greater the mass you are moving within the motor, the more force that has to be used to "moved" or accelerated it at high rates. If your force is limited and you want to get more acceleration then the only variable you can change to get the results you want is the mass! The mass of the car, or as in the case, the mass of the components within the motor. The motor has pistons, connecting rods, valves, springs, crankshaft, camshaft, gears, belts, and a flywheel. If you decrease the mass of these components, the motor will have less internal inertia and will have greater acceleration. Simple physics. I would disagree with any statement that anyone would ever claim where they state that a lighter flywheel gives you MORE horse power, false, it frees up horse power so the motor (and car) can accelerate quicker, but most people have a hard time understanding that concept.

Secondly, while a lighter flywheel can definitely make an engine more free-revving, I seriously doubt those numbers are proven on a dyno.

For starters, it really depends on what your goal is. Mine is to increase the rate of acceleration between 1 - 2 -3 gears. I want more "zip" in my life

Now, as for the flywheel, less mass = greater acceleration and yes the results are proven, look at Costas dynos just for kicks but the math speaks for its self. Also, keep in mind that I am using a stock pressure plate so in reality I am not cutting the total weight on the crankshaft in half but maybe less by a third. Philbo talks about this in several of his threads.

http://www.informatica.zen.co.uk/elan/Stages.htm

http://www.lotuselancentral.com/forum/v ... a+flywheel

As for the valve springs and their price, part of the price is for the titanium valve retainers, again, less mass to accelerate. I am also thinking about the titanium intake valves but at $100 a pop this might get too expensive but I am still thinking about it.

Stronger valve springs are typically done to compensate for engines running increased RPMs.

Very true, and if a cared about valve floating I would throw out my hydraulic lifters and use solid lifters but this is not why I am using stronger valve springs. My Elan is a forced air injected (turbo) motor and therefor, under boost air is being forced into the intake at pressures above the normal atmospheric pressure and then into the combustion chamber. Unlike a normally aspirated engine, pressurized air is pushing on the back side of the valves causing the valve to "want to" open. The greater the boost pressure, the more air that there is pushing on the backside of the valve causing it to open. My mechanic showed me a really cool demonstration, he had rigged a head from a motor so it could be pressurized at about 14 psi you could just start to hear and feel the air leaking around the valves. He then told me that the springs were rated at 40 lb. Now, the air may not be enough to push the valve all the way open but only because the spring must follow Hooks law of F=kX and as the valve spring becomes compressed it pushes back with more and more force. I do not want my valves opening even the smallest amount at all! I want to run 1.2 ~ 1.5 Atm of boost and the stock valve springs are only 45 lb., we have calculated that I need around 60 lb. just to be safe in order to make sure the valve does not open at all from the backside pressure.

Now, given that boost can only occur on the compression stroke, this means the valves are already closed. If this is the case, how do stronger springs help? Am I missing something (entirely possible)?

I think you are missing on this one. If you are under boost, every part of the intake including each valve, closed or open, is feeling the pressure (so to say). Under boost the turbo is pushing air through the system, not just when the pistons are on their compression stroke. The intake directs the air but does not tell the air what cylinder and when, that is the job of the valves and the camshaft. Under boost, the valves are now at the mercy of the valve spring to make sure they do not open prematurely. I am using a stronger spring to make sure the valves stay closed when they are suppose to be closed