Pinky II

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Postby John_W » Sat 27.05.2006, 22:55

geoffsmith wrote:... increased the drill size until there was just the thread left which I unpicked with tweezers.

John_W wrote:... slamming the garage door and going down the pub.

I stand by my recommendation.
John
Last edited by John_W on Sat 27.05.2006, 23:18, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby Monty » Sat 27.05.2006, 23:15

[quote="John_W]
I've used this method a couple of times and it's always good for slamming the garage door and going down the pub.

John :-)[/quote]

Didn`t have a garage door to hand so how`s throwing stilsons (stillies) at the turbo and they broke in half :roll:
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Postby GeoffSmith » Sat 27.05.2006, 23:48

John_W wrote:... slamming the garage door and going down the pub.

Funny, that's what the wife did when she found out I'd been using her tweezers!
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Postby Monty » Sun 28.05.2006, 20:37

I`ve had another go and manage to get the broken dill bit out and now have the hole drilled to 6.5mm. So just need to re-tap, but i`ve not done this for years and thinking of buying a Tap & Die set. Dico got me a set of bolts but i don`t know if they are M8 or M7.

So could do with some help from an expert here.

A 6.5mm drill bit fits through the other holes and a 7mm won`t so does this mean its M7 thread?

Now when i come to re-tap whats the general rule on the size off hole i need to drill for taping? Is it 1/2mm small than the thread diameter :? ie for M7 do i drill 6.5mm hole?

Any help would be appreciated
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Postby GeoffSmith » Sun 28.05.2006, 21:30

Try this

where d1=size, d2=Tap drill, d3=clearance drill.

e.g. M6 has pitch of 1.0mm, tap drill is 5mm and clearance drill is 6.1mm.
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Postby Monty » Sun 28.05.2006, 22:30

geoffsmith wrote:Try this

where d1=size, d2=Tap drill, d3=clearance drill.

e.g. M6 has pitch of 1.0mm, tap drill is 5mm and clearance drill is 6.1mm.


Don`t quite under stand that :? whats the clearance drill bit for?

so for
M8.0, pich1.25, d2 6.80, d3 8.20


do i just drill the d2 6.8mm and tap away?

http://www.all4humor.com/videos/cool-videos/tap-dance-show.html
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Postby DeeAitch » Sun 28.05.2006, 22:31

Monty, there is no std M7 thread so I suspect these are M8. Tapping drill depends on pitch. If they are coarse series then drill size is 6.8mm as shown on the chart above or here http://www.kramerusa.com/DrillTapChart.htm. I can get a coarse series tap in the post FOC if you need it :lol: Won't get to you before Thursday so may be too late - let me know.
If it all goes pear shaped then helicoil is they way to go :wink:
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Postby GeoffSmith » Sun 28.05.2006, 22:40

Tap drill is the size of drill to use before tapping; don't just "tap away" but once you've picked up the hole, cut about ¼ to ½ a turn then back off the tap and return to the end of the cut before cutting again.

Clearance drill is the size of hole you need to get the bolt through.

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Postby Monty » Sun 28.05.2006, 22:44

Cheers Guys, thanks for the info.
Dave i think u`r right it looks like a M8 course thread. I know it`s bank holiday tomo`s but i`ll see if i can get a Tap local and hopefully i won`t snap it. Other wise Pinky will become and NA :roll:
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Postby Specky » Mon 29.05.2006, 12:41

Monty wrote:Cheers Guys, thanks for the info.
Dave i think u'r right it looks like a M8 course thread. I know it's bank holiday tomo's but i'll see if i can get a Tap local and hopefully i won't snap it. Other wise Pinky will become and NA :roll:


I know this could be a little late, but I've sort of lost track on what you're doing :shock: .... are you just cleaning the old threads up, or are you redrilling and repairing the old hole from scratch... if you are, standard engineering practices are three taps.. And when it all goes to poo.. Heli-coil inserts are brilliant.

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Postby Monty » Mon 29.05.2006, 16:23

Since I`ve got no other transport (i`ve scrapped my van :roll: ) Dico was kind enough to run me about and i manage to get hold of a M8 1,25mm tap. So i`ve now drilled and re-tapped the hole :-D I`ve tested fitted the stiffy to make sure things line up and to my amazement it does :shock: Once it stops pissing down i can now get it fitted.
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Picture 026.jpg
Turbo. The re-tapped hole, bottom right
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Picture 027.jpg
Stiffy bolts
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Picture 028.jpg
The Stiffy side on
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Postby GeoffSmith » Mon 29.05.2006, 16:33

I could have done with that photo of the wastegate actuator on Friday :evil:

Pissing down! Glorious sunshine here - just done an Elanscan blast with hood down :lol:
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Postby GeoffSmith » Mon 29.05.2006, 17:01

Look Monty, I know you're a god and all that but did you have to send your poxy rain down south? Pissed on my barbeque didn't it! :evil: I knew I was tempting fate!
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Postby Specky » Mon 29.05.2006, 17:05

Good skills Monty, :clap:

Picked up the thread in more ways than one... :lol:

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Postby Dico » Mon 29.05.2006, 20:34

Propane gas bottle as a vice :-D
4+ hours stuck in a damp bucket seat with a mad Irishman at the wheel - Deep joy!!!!
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Postby Monty » Mon 29.05.2006, 22:44

Pinky is back on the road, but what a nightmare :twisted: Turbo went back on with not to much trouble, then got the stiffy attach to the turbo but one of the bolts (the lower one at the front of the car) u can`t get a socket or ring spanner as Neil mention in stevo`s stiffy thread and it`s very difficult to get a openend spanner in that tight space. Just hope i`ve got a good seal :roll: Once i got under the car i couldn`t believe it the Dam braket from the stiffy didn`t line up with the holes on the engine block + there was a gap to, tried to force over the bracket with a crow bar but no joy. So i had to take the stiffy back off and enlarge the holes then use washers between bracket & block.
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Stiffy in position
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Picture 030.jpg
The gap between block & stiffy bracket
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Picture 032.jpg
Stiffy bracket with washers
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Postby GeoffSmith » Mon 29.05.2006, 22:55

Nice one Monty. Did the stiffy flange line up with the exhaust flange or is that out of alignment too?
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Postby Monty » Mon 29.05.2006, 23:10

geoffsmith wrote:Nice one Monty. Did the stiffy flange line up with the exhaust flange or is that out of alignment too?


Holes lined up, the flanges were just out slightly ie not sitting parallel but seem to clamp up ok with plenty of paste and isn`t blowing at the mo. Took her out for a quick spin but i`ve noticed no difference in performance but that could be down to the crappy exhaust. Now to get on to Peco :-D
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Postby Monty » Wed 31.05.2006, 15:53

Wasn`t quite happy with the stiffy, the raw from the engine bay was quite loud when boosting. With the engine stone cold, started her up and poured water over the flange where it meets the stiffy and the dam thing was blowing :evil: so i had to remove the stiffy again (3rd time) and put on a thin layer off exhaust paste on and that seems to off sealed it. Anyways Pinky II is booked in for the Peco exhaust system tomorrow and hopefully get her on the rolling road.
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Postby F1 LOTUS » Wed 31.05.2006, 20:35

Maybe if you split the bracket between the mounting holes things will fit better - I doubt if the engine block requires the additional bracing anyway :P
Good luck :D
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