Wastegate Lubrication????

Moderators: theelanman, dapinky, Specky, clemo, Nige, Sy V, Dave Eds, DaveT, Elanlover, muley, Enright, algirdas, nitroman, GeoffSmith

Postby Elanlover » Wed 04.10.2006, 15:57

Their MSDS claims the boiling point is 232F. If that's the case, will the oil be evaporated shortly after applying if you're driving the car and running the turbo hard??? Just wondering if, in the end, the oil will last only 20 minutes and be completely gone (evaporated) without any lasting benefits. :smt102
User avatar
Elanlover
Moderator
 
Posts: 3513
Joined: Fri 05.08.2005, 19:11
Location: The Great White North

Postby GeoffSmith » Wed 04.10.2006, 16:09

:agree: I see that it's main use would be as penetrating oil to release sticky wastegates without the need to clean off afterwards. Whether any wastegates get that stuck, I wouldn't be sure, unless they're laid up for long periods. I'll stick to the wiggle I think.
Calypso Red S2 #417

USB ElanScan interfaces - £60 incl. UK P&P & £65 incl. ROW P&P
User avatar
GeoffSmith
Kitty Fiddler
 
Posts: 15628
Joined: Fri 03.02.2006, 21:57
Location: S2#417 in Tytherington, Gloucestershire

Wastegate Lubricant

Postby algirdas » Wed 04.10.2006, 16:17

Dear Geoff:

This gets me back to my earlier question-What sort of temperature range are we working with down there? I know of some greases that have a 400 degree F range upper limit, but even that sounds like it may be too low.

What about just putting some Mobil 1 on it?

Sincerely,

Algirdas
Noli illegitemi carborundum.
User avatar
algirdas
Moderator
 
Posts: 1093
Joined: Mon 19.01.2004, 03:20
Location: Fort Collins, Colorado

Postby GeoffSmith » Wed 04.10.2006, 16:42

Algirdas,

Exhaust gases can be very hot >1000ºF and I remember seeing a photo of a Saab turbo many moons ago: the turbo was glowing red hot so must have been ~1000ºF. Although the wastegate/actuator is thermally isolated from the exhaust/turbo, I would have thought that it could be seeing well in excess of 400ºF. Don't forget that carbon is abrasive and any burned residue could possibly graunch the mechanism you're trying to lubricate!

Geoff
Calypso Red S2 #417

USB ElanScan interfaces - £60 incl. UK P&P & £65 incl. ROW P&P
User avatar
GeoffSmith
Kitty Fiddler
 
Posts: 15628
Joined: Fri 03.02.2006, 21:57
Location: S2#417 in Tytherington, Gloucestershire

Postby Elanlover » Wed 04.10.2006, 16:44

There might be some benefit to spraying it with this stuff once if you think you have a sticky wastegate. Only as a penetrating - loosen it up perspective. Would have the added benefit of burning off cleanly as you say algirdas. I not so sure about the Mobil 1 idea in that it will attract dirt, etc. which will eventually lead to sticking again.

I suppose a regular course of MM, Mobile 1, MM, Mobile 1 might work?????
User avatar
Elanlover
Moderator
 
Posts: 3513
Joined: Fri 05.08.2005, 19:11
Location: The Great White North

Wastegate Lubricant

Postby algirdas » Wed 04.10.2006, 16:55

Dear Blair and Geoff:

I have not had the honor of a stuck wastegate-yet. For my on-going, anal retentive maintenance schedule, I was thinking more along the lines of clean with Brake Cleaner, spritz with Mouse Milk and just try to keep the area as clean as possible.

What do you guys think?

Sincerely,

Algirdas
Noli illegitemi carborundum.
User avatar
algirdas
Moderator
 
Posts: 1093
Joined: Mon 19.01.2004, 03:20
Location: Fort Collins, Colorado

Postby Elanlover » Wed 04.10.2006, 18:37

I like it.

But then again, that's me with the enormous and vast body of knowledge I possess about wastegate rods :roll:
User avatar
Elanlover
Moderator
 
Posts: 3513
Joined: Fri 05.08.2005, 19:11
Location: The Great White North

Wastegate Lubricant

Postby algirdas » Wed 04.10.2006, 18:47

Dear Blair:

Your knowledge is still vastly superior to mine.

Sincerely,

Algirdas
Noli illegitemi carborundum.
User avatar
algirdas
Moderator
 
Posts: 1093
Joined: Mon 19.01.2004, 03:20
Location: Fort Collins, Colorado

Re: Wastegate Lubricant

Postby Elanlover » Thu 05.10.2006, 02:51

algirdas wrote:Dear Blair:

Your knowledge is still vastly superior to mine.

Sincerely,

Algirdas


If that's true we are both in deep doodoo.............(mouse doodoo that is)
User avatar
Elanlover
Moderator
 
Posts: 3513
Joined: Fri 05.08.2005, 19:11
Location: The Great White North

Postby mikeydude » Tue 14.11.2006, 14:29

I only have a meek and unworthy opinion here, but when mine was stuck I got it moving using wd40 over a period of days and tapping the lever backwards and forwards gently from underneath with a long bar and a hammer!

I then coated the bit that goes into the turbo with copper grease...loads of it!
a mound in fact....seems to have worked great for twelve months. the grease still looks fine, but it may be a good idea to replace it every so often by cleaning it off with a solvent and replacing with new stuff as I don't think that even copper grease can handle turbo temps!!


So speaks the village Idiot of Rochdale!
User avatar
mikeydude
Fanatic
 
Posts: 546
Joined: Thu 09.02.2006, 00:26
Location: Rochdale

Postby nitroman » Fri 17.11.2006, 08:03

I am going to use Wurth CU1100 Copper Paste with a melting-point of 2000F with no "fling" factor below there either. But if someone looks into Sperm or Minky whale oil them we'll go on a little fishing trip; or else this is our only option! ;-)
Strive for perfection in everything. (given time)
Take the best that exists & make it better. (given inclination)
If it doesn't exist, create it. (God did)
Ignore what I say. (good advice)
User avatar
nitroman
Moderator
 
Posts: 3554
Joined: Fri 18.04.2003, 01:17
Location: Jacksonville, FL

Postby Dave M » Fri 17.11.2006, 15:58

A sure solution to the stuck wastegate. :wink:

External, baby!
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
Rumors of my demise have been greatly exaggerated.

"Track Elan" Monaco White Elan / "Peely" Calypso Red Elan / 2007 Subaru Legacy GT-Cobb Tuned / 1993 Honda CBR600F2
User avatar
Dave M
God
 
Posts: 937
Joined: Mon 18.07.2005, 01:40
Location: Ada, MI

Postby GeoffSmith » Fri 17.11.2006, 17:44

Dave M wrote:External, baby!


Flash bugger!
Calypso Red S2 #417

USB ElanScan interfaces - £60 incl. UK P&P & £65 incl. ROW P&P
User avatar
GeoffSmith
Kitty Fiddler
 
Posts: 15628
Joined: Fri 03.02.2006, 21:57
Location: S2#417 in Tytherington, Gloucestershire

Postby nitroman » Fri 17.11.2006, 23:49

The only OE part is the exhaust manifold! I hope to be at that point in about a month Dave. My turbo is out for rebalancing with the larger T-Bird compressor wheel on it. Will be reinstalling the whole thing as a unit with even oil & water-pipes already on. Just be sure to install your oil-dipstick tube LAST... I'm sure I don't have to tell you! I was like "Am I really that weak or is there still something attached to the motor?"

Looks the beans BTW. Cover any exposed raw cast iron with that cosmetic paste which lasts 3-years or more as long as you don't physically remove it. It's amazed me. Will follow with more info later. Even works after the iron has rusted but NOW you have access to the entire surface area.
Last edited by nitroman on Sat 18.11.2006, 00:05, edited 2 times in total.
Strive for perfection in everything. (given time)
Take the best that exists & make it better. (given inclination)
If it doesn't exist, create it. (God did)
Ignore what I say. (good advice)
User avatar
nitroman
Moderator
 
Posts: 3554
Joined: Fri 18.04.2003, 01:17
Location: Jacksonville, FL

Wastegate Lubricant

Postby algirdas » Fri 17.11.2006, 23:59

Dear Dave:

Is that unit in the picture for your M100?

Sincerely,

Algirdas
Noli illegitemi carborundum.
User avatar
algirdas
Moderator
 
Posts: 1093
Joined: Mon 19.01.2004, 03:20
Location: Fort Collins, Colorado

Postby nitroman » Sat 18.11.2006, 03:52

Dave, this is what I was talking about my friend, and will be very easy for you to apply with precision now that everything is out of the car. http://www.madvet.com/shop?frame=1.141

Mine applied to the car (Capri) that I put on in 2002 still looks like a brand-new cast-iron casting fresh out of Hiroshima (the Mazda plant is there). The remainder however, almost the entire 4oz container, has dried up and will have to be thrown away!

FWI the supplied brush is too big for detail work (you just want this on cast iron, not aluminium) so make sure to get a pack of a half-dozen cheap plastic-model hobby brushes.
Strive for perfection in everything. (given time)
Take the best that exists & make it better. (given inclination)
If it doesn't exist, create it. (God did)
Ignore what I say. (good advice)
User avatar
nitroman
Moderator
 
Posts: 3554
Joined: Fri 18.04.2003, 01:17
Location: Jacksonville, FL

Postby Doc Fizzix » Sat 18.11.2006, 06:58

DAM! You find the coolest stuff, I just ordered a container to try out :D
Saving the world with science!
User avatar
Doc Fizzix
God
 
Posts: 2281
Joined: Thu 23.09.2004, 23:36
Location: Deep in the heart of Texas

Wastegate Lubricant

Postby algirdas » Sat 18.11.2006, 07:10

Dear Al:

Have you checked out Eastwood for manifold coatings?

http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?item ... pe=PRODUCT

Sincerely,

Algirdas
Noli illegitemi carborundum.
User avatar
algirdas
Moderator
 
Posts: 1093
Joined: Mon 19.01.2004, 03:20
Location: Fort Collins, Colorado

Re: Wastegate Lubricant

Postby Dave M » Sun 19.11.2006, 06:42

algirdas wrote:Is that unit in the picture for your M100?

Yep! It works a treat. Full 2.5" mandrel bent on the primary and 1.5" for the EWG. I just bumped the boost to ~22 psi and it holds solid with no creep.

FWIW on the manifold dressing, I have used Calyx and while it looks great on application, it does wash off if you drive in rain. You will need to reapply once in a while. It does look good however!
Rumors of my demise have been greatly exaggerated.

"Track Elan" Monaco White Elan / "Peely" Calypso Red Elan / 2007 Subaru Legacy GT-Cobb Tuned / 1993 Honda CBR600F2
User avatar
Dave M
God
 
Posts: 937
Joined: Mon 18.07.2005, 01:40
Location: Ada, MI

Postby nitroman » Sun 19.11.2006, 12:01

Then you are using the wrong stuff Dave. I just poured scalding (brought to a boil on the stove) water over the engine to get Gunk off after an oil change with the weather right at freezing or maybe a degree above and once again this stuff is still completely on there.

I'm telling you; some sort of chemical-bond happens after the exhaust is heated-up after 1st application, even though it remains a paste and never becomes "paint". They should call it The toughest stuff in the world for 10-bucks! But they can't because... that's who I am. ;-)
Strive for perfection in everything. (given time)
Take the best that exists & make it better. (given inclination)
If it doesn't exist, create it. (God did)
Ignore what I say. (good advice)
User avatar
nitroman
Moderator
 
Posts: 3554
Joined: Fri 18.04.2003, 01:17
Location: Jacksonville, FL

PreviousNext

Return to Turbos, Boost, and Intakes

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 2 guests

cron