Outboard CV Joint

[algirdas]

Dear All:

Last night I noticed that my right side outboard CV joint boot is cracked and apparently has been so for a while. I have read the write-ups on the site as well as the manuals on how to drop the right side driveshaft. It seems fairly straightforward which leads me to conclude that I must be missing something important.

Also, what is the best way to pull the transaxle end of the driveshaft free from the car?

Any help will be most appreciated.

Sincerely,

Algirdas

[algirdas]

Dear All:

Don't everyone speak up at once now.

Sincerely,

Algirdas

[TheBard]

Couldn't leave you there all alone mate, so...

Didn't do it myself, but the mechanic did tell me that instead of dropping the upper link of the suspension, and having the whole outboard end hanging, he managed it by unfastening the lower end... basically if the instructions said the top he did the bottom, or whatever is the opposite of what is listed in the service manual. He said having done that it was pretty much exactly as it says in the write up... so maybe it is that easy...

All the best, and ask Ekapol for some boots, as I believe he has the best collection on the west coast!

Ian

[Ekapol]

Yes, Algirdas. Please let me know if I can help.

I have one from SJ Sportscar, one from Shaftec, 2 from Duraboot which I like the best if I have to do it myself.

For Duraboot you will need their cone and their small bottle of special lubricant. The boot could really be stretched out a lot to the size of the bigger end of the cone which is bigger than the CV joint. I think that character will make it the type of rubber that suit the application better.

What's the size of hub nut do you know? And the torque?

[algirdas]

Dear Ian and Ekapol:

Thanks for getting back to me. Per Ekapol's recommendation, I went ahead and ordered 4 boot kits from Duraboot in California along with the cone and cone lubricant.

I'm still at a bit of loss as to the best way to get the driveshaft to come out of the transaxle. Just us pry bars in order to get it to pop off the snap rings?

Sincerely,

Algirdas

[Dave M]

Hi Algirdas. When you say "right side" I'm not sure if that's looking at the car from the front or sitting in the car - so I'll give you both. If you're trying to remove the driver's side axle (the short one), take a pry bar and push out on the axle (hard) at the transmission. Then take a hammer and tap on the large diameter piece of the axle right next to the transmission. It should pop out. If not, try the same while prying at different angles or at different parts of the axle end.

As for the passenger's side, there is no clip. Once you unbolt the axle mount from the engine block, it slides out easily. For both, you'll want to remove the hub nut first (which may require an impact socket - mine were really touch getting off the first time) so the axle can come out in one piece.

[algirdas]

Dear Dave:

I mean "rightside" in the traditional sense-sitting in the driver's seat looking forward (so passenger side for us Yanks). But I am going to change out all four since I have no clue what has been done to these axles.

First the passenger side, then the driver's side.

So once I free the outboard end from the bearing carrier and it is hanging free, I go to work on the inboard end. How "medieval" can I get on it? Are there seals that I need to replace at the transaxle while I am there?

And now for the driver's side. Once I have the outboard end free of the bearing carrier, how tough is it to get the inboard end over the round split ring? Again, how brutal can I be with it? How brutal do I have to be with it?

Sincerely,

Algirdas

[M100 TWO]

Algridas the idea of the dura boot is you do not strip the hub down you just have to remove the shaft from the hub put cone over the cv joint and push the boot on you do not pull shaft out of the gearbox is is all done in situ as I have said before it is a Quick fix
john

[Dave M]

So once I free the outboard end from the bearing carrier and it is hanging free, I go to work on the inboard end. How "medieval" can I get on it? Are there seals that I need to replace at the transaxle while I am there?

And now for the driver's side. Once I have the outboard end free of the bearing carrier, how tough is it to get the inboard end over the round split ring? Again, how brutal can I be with it? How brutal do I have to be with it?

On the passenger side, once you've got the hub end out and the center bearing carrier unbolted from the block, the whole axle slides out of the transmission with ease. There's no snap ring on that side as the center bearing mount holds things in place. No brute force required.

The driver's side is where you'll need to use the "pry and tap" technique I described above. The axle clip *is* on that side.

As for the seals, I've not had issues with the passenger side, but do have a leak on the driver's side now after having the axle in and out a few times. The part is A100F6067S and I need to order one myself. I'm placing an order for two, so if you don't have one available in your area, let me know.

[algirdas]

Dear Dave and John:

Perhaps I am making this harder than it needs to be. I thought I would pull the driveshafts. Give them a good soak in the parts washer, re-grease the CVs and install new boots all around. That way I could just forget about it for a while.

So to drop the passenger side, I need to remove that center bearing carrier and the short shaft that comes out of the transaxle. I was under the impression that I leave the center bearing carrier in place and separate the driveshaft at that point from the center bearing carrier.

Sincerely,

Algirdas

[Dave M]

I was under the impression that I leave the center bearing carrier in place and separate the driveshaft at that point from the center bearing carrier.

I imagine you can do that as well. Having little experience or desire to take apart bearings, I just pulled the whole unit to make getting to the trans and engine an easier job.

[Doc Fizzix]

On the passenger side, once you've got the hub end out and the center bearing carrier unbolted from the block, the whole axle slides out of the transmission with ease. There's no snap ring on that side as the center bearing mount holds things in place.

WOW

For what it is worth, you are doing WAY more work than you need to be doing if you remove the center shaft. All you have to do is remove the drive shaft not the whole thing.

The challange is, once you get the drive shaft out I take a rawhide or plastic malet and "wack" the outer joint off the drive shaft. Takes a few hit but it will pop off, do not use a metal malet or hammer, you will damage the joint.

[Dave M]

For what it is worth, you are doing WAY more work than you need to be doing if you remove the center shaft. All you have to do is remove the drive shaft not the whole thing.

All I ever did when removing this was unscrew the hub nut and two bolts that held the center bearing support. Then I slid the whole axle out of the transmission end, then the hub end. Voila! Three connections and axle out. I was just worried about messing up something with the center bearing. Besides, I needed the center section out for the work I was doing. Makes oil filter changes REAL easy, too...

[Doc Fizzix]

Makes oil filter changes REAL easy, too...

So do you take the center shaft out every time you change the filter?

I have not had a problem with the axle popping out of the center bearing, so I have always done it this way on the right side. Another reason for doing it this way is because if you remove the center shaft with the drive axle the trans-axle fluid will drain out. If you are only removing the right side (as seen from sitting inside the car) then you will not have to drain and then refill the trans-axle fluid if you separate the drive shaft from the center bearing.

[algirdas]

Dear Al and Dave:

Isn't there a "square section" split ring on that right side?

Sincerely,

Algirdas

[Doc Fizzix]

Isn't there a "square section" split ring on that right side?

There is a split ring between the drive axle and the center shaft, but I do not remember if it is square or round.

[algirdas]

Dear Al and Dave:

How hard is it to get the driveshafts to pop off of those split rings? I just want to know how "medieval" I am going to have to get on them.

Sincerely,

Algirdas

[Dave M]

Makes oil filter changes REAL easy, too...

So do you take the center shaft out every time you change the filter?

Now you know why my projects take so long! (j/k)

Another reason for doing it this way is because if you remove the center shaft with the drive axle the trans-axle fluid will drain out. If you are only removing the right side (as seen from sitting inside the car) then you will not have to drain and then refill the trans-axle fluid if you separate the drive shaft from the center bearing.

Good point...when I had my axle out, there was much more coming out of the car anyway (trans or engine)!

Algirdas, the bearing ring is round. A big, black heavy thing, too. 14mm bolts going into the block IIRC. Sad I know that...I've had it out too many times apparently!

[Doc Fizzix]

How hard is it to get the driveshafts to pop off of those split rings? I just want to know how "medieval" I am going to have to get on them.

Here is my trick, I am sure others have their own methods but this works for me.

On the left side -- From under the car, I take two long regular tip screw-drivers (these are the thick ones) and place between the drive shaft and trany one opposite sides of the spigot and then carefully push the the axle out of the trany using the screw-drivers as a lever. Make sure the flat of the screw-drivers rest on the trany so you do not "smash" the seal.

Now for the right side -- I use the same technique but instead of resting the screw-drivers on the trany (or on this side the center bearing mount) I will now rest the screw-drivers between the plunging tripod joint and the center bearing cover plate that is actually attached to the drive shaft. Again, use the screw-drivers as a lever and push the axle from the center bearing, this method will also push the cover plate off the drive shaft but the plate is easy to put back on the drive shaft so this is not a problem BUT extreme care must be taken not to dent the cover plate, just make sure the "flat" of the screw-driver is resting at the top edge of the bearing cover.

I have removed the axles many times between my two Elans and the method I have described above has always worked well for me, I have never had any problems and the axles slide out smoothly, I am sure it is part of thhe technique I have developed. Using the screw-drives as levers on each side of the spigot applies equal pressure and causes the circle clip to compress evenly so the axle slips right off with no major tugging or pulling.

[Ekapol]

instead of dropping the upper link of the suspension, and having the whole outboard end hanging, he managed it by unfastening the lower end... basically if the instructions said the top he did the bottom, or whatever is the opposite of what is listed in the service manual.

2nd that. Finally I decide not to diy this time. I don't have the socket, no prybar, etc. Was there watching the whole time. My mechanic dropped the lower end too. He got everything out in the first 20 mins He noticed that the clip was missing, spent time finding it for me. Got everything back pretty leisurely, all those jobs was still in 40 minutes

Then he helped me put new rubber exhaust hanging thing (some cracks on the old one, part I ordered a while back) for the rear end of the pipe. Not bad at all for one hour I paid