Lotus Elan Central

by **Sy V** » Fri 26.05.2006, 06:18

Correct - just like mine. Warning though Monty; you won't be able to take your eyes off it now you get vacuum and pressure readings. The needle flies around like crazy - great fun but watching it's addictive!

:lol:

by **TommyK** » Fri 26.05.2006, 06:55

Forgive my laziness, but what's the diameter of that meter/gauge?
2 1/16 or 2 5/8?

by **Monty** » Fri 26.05.2006, 10:36

TommyK wrote:Forgive my laziness, but what's the diameter of that meter/gauge?
2 1/16 or 2 5/8?

Tommy, the gauge is 52mm diameter.

Sy u`r right very difficult to keep watching the gauge, what vacuum reading are u getting on u`rs on tick over mine is near the 20 mark but haven`t a clue if thats normal

by **Monty** » Fri 26.05.2006, 19:52

The Big Stiffy project

Once it stop raining today, thought i`d get started. Things were going well, the nut`s from the precast to the turbo came of easly leaving the studs in the turbo. The hardest part was undoing the nuts on the flange were the exhaust meets the precat (1 stud snapped). I then undone the PAS and pushed it to one side, I thought to myself this is easy then i tried pulling the cast part from the turbo but the dam thing hit the PAS and no matter what i did i couldn`t get pass the studs (see pic`s) :evil:

So it was remove the PAS or snap the stud and guess which i choose. U`ve guessed it and the stud snapped right flush with the bloody turbo :roll:

Anyways got the lump out, then it was on to the turbo :evil:

the bottom bolt was a pain the whole stud was tight and took me 3/4 hour to remove, after that it was easy.
Tomorrow i`ve got to remove the studs and drill the broken one out then port the wastegate.
Think i`ll order a curry and have some beers :roll:

by **Dico** » Fri 26.05.2006, 20:37

I reckon if you'd have 'wiggled' it a bit more it would have come

Good effort though, enjoy the curry

by **Doug** » Fri 26.05.2006, 20:55

Dico wrote:I reckon if you'd have 'wiggled' it a bit more it would have come

took the words, er ah . . . ., right out of Stef's mouth :shock:

by **Paul.P** » Fri 26.05.2006, 23:53

Hope you can drill it out Monty, about 10 drill bits later, i had to have mine machined out !

by **Sy V** » Sat 27.05.2006, 09:46

Good work Jay, -20's the same as Stripey.

by **Monty** » Sat 27.05.2006, 16:24

Got started today on removing that broken stud, well thats Pinky off the road for a while :evil:

tried to drilling and using a stud remover but no joy, so thought i`d carry on drilling starting with a small drill then keep stepping up a size at a time. Then i snapped a drill bit :cry:

so it needs to go to a Engineers work shop. Got the wastegate ported thou :roll:

by **John_W** » Sat 27.05.2006, 18:16

Monty wrote:... tried to drilling and using a stud remover but no joy, so thought i'd carry on drilling starting with a small drill then keep stepping up a size at a time. Then i snapped a drill bit so it needs to go to a Engineers work shop.

Yup, that's my experience with drilling out studs too.

One refinement you don't seem to have tried is to shear off the left-hand-thread "easy-out" (now there's a neme which needs to go before the consumer complaints commision) in the drilled hole.

I've used this method a couple of times and it's always good for slamming the garage door and going down the pub.

John :-)

by **GeoffSmith** » Sat 27.05.2006, 21:21

Jay,

Bad luck. I know it's a bit late and after the event but it doesn't look like you were in the centre of the bolt anyway, which is what you should be aiming for. The more central, the bigger the hole and the bigger the EZ out so less likelyhood of breaking that as well. After a few previous unsuccessful attempts, the last couple of times I've been successful, but only by:-
Carefully centre punching a good deep indentation right in the centre of the bolt first. Clamping the offending item square on a drill stand (cheap Black and Decker one) to keep the drill at right angles and to be able to apply a controlled and steady pressure. Carefully aligning the drill and very slowly applying pressure. Using an EZ out (after plenty of penetrating oil and a bit of heat).
Second time, the bolt was in a recess so I had an aluminium drill guide turned up to keep the first drill central. I slowly increased the drill size until there was just the thread left which I unpicked with tweezers.

Hope you manage to recover it.

Geoff

by **John_W** » Sat 27.05.2006, 22:55

geoffsmith wrote:... increased the drill size until there was just the thread left which I unpicked with tweezers.

John_W wrote:... slamming the garage door and going down the pub.

I stand by my recommendation.
John

by **Monty** » Sat 27.05.2006, 23:15

[quote="John_W]
I've used this method a couple of times and it's always good for slamming the garage door and going down the pub.

John :-)

[/quote]

Didn`t have a garage door to hand so how`s throwing stilsons (stillies) at the turbo and they broke in half :roll:

by **GeoffSmith** » Sat 27.05.2006, 23:48

John_W wrote:... slamming the garage door and going down the pub.

Funny, that's what the wife did when she found out I'd been using her tweezers!

by **Monty** » Sun 28.05.2006, 20:37

I`ve had another go and manage to get the broken dill bit out and now have the hole drilled to 6.5mm. So just need to re-tap, but i`ve not done this for years and thinking of buying a Tap & Die set. Dico got me a set of bolts but i don`t know if they are M8 or M7.

So could do with some help from an expert here.

A 6.5mm drill bit fits through the other holes and a 7mm won`t so does this mean its M7 thread?

Now when i come to re-tap whats the general rule on the size off hole i need to drill for taping? Is it 1/2mm small than the thread diameter

ie for M7 do i drill 6.5mm hole?

Any help would be appreciated

by **GeoffSmith** » Sun 28.05.2006, 21:30

Try this

where d1=size, d2=Tap drill, d3=clearance drill.

e.g. M6 has pitch of 1.0mm, tap drill is 5mm and clearance drill is 6.1mm.

by **Monty** » Sun 28.05.2006, 22:30

geoffsmith wrote:Try this

where d1=size, d2=Tap drill, d3=clearance drill.

e.g. M6 has pitch of 1.0mm, tap drill is 5mm and clearance drill is 6.1mm.

Don`t quite under stand that

whats the clearance drill bit for?

so for

M8.0, pich1.25, d2 6.80, d3 8.20

do i just drill the d2 6.8mm and tap away?

http://www.all4humor.com/videos/cool-videos/tap-dance-show.html

by **DeeAitch** » Sun 28.05.2006, 22:31

Monty, there is no std M7 thread so I suspect these are M8. Tapping drill depends on pitch. If they are coarse series then drill size is 6.8mm as shown on the chart above or here http://www.kramerusa.com/DrillTapChart.htm. I can get a coarse series tap in the post FOC if you need it :lol:

Won't get to you before Thursday so may be too late - let me know.
If it all goes pear shaped then helicoil is they way to go :wink:

by **GeoffSmith** » Sun 28.05.2006, 22:40

Tap drill is the size of drill to use before tapping; don't just "tap away" but once you've picked up the hole, cut about ¼ to ½ a turn then back off the tap and return to the end of the cut before cutting again.

Clearance drill is the size of hole you need to get the bolt through.

Geoff

by **Monty** » Sun 28.05.2006, 22:44

Cheers Guys, thanks for the info.
Dave i think u`r right it looks like a M8 course thread. I know it`s bank holiday tomo`s but i`ll see if i can get a Tap local and hopefully i won`t snap it. Other wise Pinky will become and NA :roll:

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