Post-Swap Engine Problems

[Sy V]

I've started a new thread because I seem to have a combination of faults shared between Jack's Diesel thread and RedM100's overheating. I'll try to keep this as short as possible, but it may be difficult.

To set the scene, I've just installed a brand new engine into Stripey (this was being catalogued in the Stripey II thread in the Projects area until its disappearance.

Filled the system with water/antifreeze yesterday morning and tried to start the car having reconnected the battery, reset the inertia switch and primed the system with the fuel pump. Engine started second dig. A thought, my second attempt was perhaps quite soon after the first failure.

Now the list of problems encountered thus far (in no particular order).

1. Engine runs like s**t and has a top end rattle.

Ticking over at about 1050 rpm but it's searching (not the right term but at this time in the morning I can't think of it) i.e. it's fluctuating. There's a fairly loud rattle in the top end (inlet side on crankcase I think) which comes and goes. We removed the cam cover and when turning it by hand the followers appear to be moving smoothly with the cams. Stuck valve somewhere below? Would a compression tester show this up? Base Timing checked and spot on.

Post water fill we had some initial arcing at the coil end of the Kingsborne wires, so we air blasted the coil area and swapped the wires for the new ones which came with the engine.

2. Whilst filling with water we removed the breather cap under the passenger side light pod and confirmed water coming out of radiator. But have run the engine up to temp (beyond where I'm used to the fans kicking in) and no fan activity (used to work fine in Stripey before engine change. Checked fuses, no problems. The fan temperature sensor was damaged in transit of the new engine, so we're using one out of the 40K mile engine (an unknown) but I have a spare in Stripey's old engine.

My plans at this point: Take Elanscan down to the car tonight and run diagnostics. Could a brand new thermostat be stuck? May have to phone PM and see if he can book it in due to the fact that I have this RAF training course to run over in East Anglia the week preceding Donington. I've done Donington without a Lotus once, when I was running the stall, that wasn't too bad. But, the idea of going to the show without Stripey again doesn't appeal to me.

[Sy V]

I had forgotten that I took a few pictures of the installation yesterday morning, before we encountered the above-mentioned problems.





Seems as good a place as anywhere to stick them.

[Sy V]

Just a couple of niggling doubts that I might as well throw into the pot.

On the oil separator (visible in the second picture above) the pipe that comes out of the side, towards the wheel arch: where does yours go? I seem to remember it making a 180 and going back in towards the throttle body somewhere, but it's currently connected to another pipe from the rear of the engine with a blue disc non-return-like valve on it - Correct?

Loom redundancy: Between the air filter box and the plenum - intercooler pipe, there are a couple of wiring looms with redundant connectors. Two blue (visible in the picture) which I'm fairly happy are normally redundant and two white rectangular connectors (not visible), these are redundant too - Correct?

[DaveT]

Cannot help you with the technical stuff Sy. Just wanted to say she does pook good!!

DT

[paulwatkins]

On the oil separator (visible in the second picture above) the pipe that comes out of the side, towards the wheel arch: where does yours go? I seem to remember it making a 180 and going back in towards the throttle body somewhere, but it's currently connected to another pipe from the rear of the engine with a blue disc non-return-like valve on it - Correct?

Correct.
In the pic below you can just see the filter in the bottom corner. This goes to the bottom middle area of the block.

[paulwatkins]

There's a fairly loud rattle in the top end (inlet side on crankcase I think) which comes and goes. We removed the cam cover and when turning it by hand the followers appear to be moving smoothly with the cams. Stuck valve somewhere below?

Sy, possible HVL may need re-charging?

[Sy V]

Paul thanks for the confirmations...those pictures of my previous (Now Ailwyn's) new engine have avoided me so far...must have gone west as part of the Stripey II thread.

HVL re-charge - not good news.

[paulwatkins]

Could a brand new thermostat be stuck?

Sy, I replaced my thermostat for a new one during my rebuild, but couldn't get any warm air in the cabin.

Switched it for the old one I'd taken out (after testing it ok using the saucepan method), topped the system back up and hey preston, warm air!

Tested the 'new' one in the saucepan, didnt open.

So, Sy it is possible a new thermostat could be faulty.

[Sy V]

I'll boil an assortment of thermostats tonight then as well.

[Enright]

Number 1) sounds to me like a hydraulic valve lifter that's drained of oil.

[Sy V]

...1. Engine runs like s**t and has a top end rattle.

Ticking over at about 1050 rpm but it's searching (not the right term but at this time in the morning I can't think of it) i.e. it's fluctuating. There's a fairly loud rattle in the top end (inlet side on crankcase I think) which comes and goes. We removed the cam cover and when turning it by hand the followers appear to be moving smoothly with the cams. Stuck valve somewhere below? Would a compression tester show this up? Base Timing checked and spot on...

I ought to add that there's white smoke from the exhaust too.

[Sy V]

Another thing (although I'll check again this evening), when I checked last there were no Codes set in the ECU.

[muley]

Sy,

Sorry to hear you are having probs. For a fan check, you can just earth the fan temp switch lead and the fans should cut in.

You could run the car without a thermostat if needed.

The rattle may go away if it is an HVL - and they can take time to get re-pressurised - I normally make mine run quieter by going for an energetic spin.

The engine does look good, though. Hang on in there.

Cheers

Jim

[Sy V]

Given these symptoms (excluding the fans problem) - Roy at PM's has suggested exchanging the MAT & ECU Coolant Temp Sensor.

Comments

[muley]

...1. Engine runs like s**t and has a top end rattle.

Ticking over at about 1050 rpm but it's searching (not the right term but at this time in the morning I can't think of it) i.e. it's fluctuating. There's a fairly loud rattle in the top end (inlet side on crankcase I think) which comes and goes. We removed the cam cover and when turning it by hand the followers appear to be moving smoothly with the cams. Stuck valve somewhere below? Would a compression tester show this up? Base Timing checked and spot on...

I ought to add that there's white smoke from the exhaust too.

Sy,

Just read this piece. I hope it's not a head gasket problem. Does the head need re-torquing after being run for the first time?. It might be worth using a block tester to sniff the coolant, just in case.

Cheers

Jim

[Sy V]

Jim

I hope not.

Roy also said that rattles are common after head changes and that they run them up to temp and rev them (akin to your good thrashing measures I suppose) to silence them.

Of course, I need to get the fans working first...Jim, electricals are not my forte can you expand on the temp sensor shorting please? In single syllables preferably...

[muley]

Sy,

No problem.

1) Disconnect the fan switch - see pic. Just depress the catch slightly and pull it off

2) With the engine running connect the metal bit in the plug to a metal part of the engine - I used a wire coat hanger but a paperclip or piece of wire would be fine

3) The fans should cut in.

Cheers

Jim

[Sy V]

Excellent, thanks. So if the fans work it's the sensor/switch that's Kerry Packered and if they don't it's the circuit between the sensor and the fans.

[muley]

Excellent, thanks. So if the fans work it's the sensor/switch that's Kerry Packered and if they don't it's the circuit between the sensor and the fans.

Yep...or the fans themselves are cream-crackered.

Cheers

Jim

[Enright]

Sorry I didn't have time to reply properly earlier. Here's a more comprehensive one:

Those fan frameworks seem to corrode so badly that I wouldn't even be surprised to see one collapse and jam the fans. Mind you I'd have thought that if that were the case then you'd get either an horrendous noise or "magic smoke". Must be worth checking that they can move freely though, just to rule that out.

I believe the manual says that the HVL's should be submerged in light oil and then squeezed to get any airlocks out. This is something that I was somewhat dubious about during my rebuild, as you don't want to keep having to remove the camshafts to do this. Most recent person to come across this was either Paul Watkins or Dapinky during Paul's head recon - ask them.

I'll be interested to hear if the "good thrashing" route does the trick.

A bit of smoke to begin with is not unusual as excess oil is burnt off - it gets in some strange places when an engine is stored for a while or is tipped over at odd angles.
The questions that need to be asked are:
When is it smoking - during acceleration, deceleration, idle or constantly?
Has it got better, worse, or stayed about the same?
Do a compression test anyway, just for peace of mind.