Oil Cooler Removal and Replacement.

[Neil.G]

Morning all, need a bit of advice. I managed to scrape my front end underside over a speed-bump/pot hole combination and now have a leaky oil cooler. I think it flexed a little, it's original and looks a bit manky so probably due for replacement anyway. My cooler hoses were replaced not too long ago so all good there. My question to the group is best method of removal and fitment? Can it be done from the wheel arch or is it best to remove the front bumper? I've had a quick search through wikilec but no references and a post search throws up sources for a new cooler and high cost of part. I'm just waiting on a price from cool experts, any takers on how best to tackle fitting? Thanks.

[Dave Eds]

Did mine without taking the bumper off.

[Jamie N]

Like Dave says it can be done with the bumper in situ bit personally I would recommend removing it, gives you a bit more room to work, but the other benefit is it will give you access to the radiator support bracket and other bits where corrosion could be taking hold and giving you the chance to deal with it at the same time. Removing the front bumper isn't difficult as long as the bolts are not rusted solid.

[Neil.G]

As always, such a quick response. Thanks both, I'll probably do a coolant change at the same time so removing bumper might make life easier to reach lower rad hose. using the car as a daily so weekend job, why don't these things happen prior to bank holidays?! Any recommendations on supply of cooler?
And look out for my post next week on "how do you remove front bumper with seized fixings?"

[Saltire]

Neil, I had a similar experience to you - in my case taking to the grass verge to avoid a madcap oncoming combine driver

I did mine through the front wheel arch without issues, although if I were to do it again I’d probably have the bumper off. Mine came from CoolExperts and is excellent. (Note that the link is for their water radiator- which I also have - but they will do you an oil cooler if you ring and ask).

You will also need to budget for replacement of the connecting hoses - mine were shot. The originals are unobtainable, but someone like Pirtek will make up new hoses for a reasonable cost using your old hose ends. Don’t be tempted to try re-using the old hoses

[Neil.G]

Neil, I had a similar experience to you - in my case taking to the grass verge to avoid a madcap oncoming combine driver

I did mine through the front wheel arch without issues, although if I were to do it again I’d probably have the bumper off. Mine came from CoolExperts and is excellent. (Note that the link is for their water radiator- which I also have - but they will do you an oil cooler if you ring and ask).

You will also need to budget for replacement of the connecting hoses - mine were shot. The originals are unobtainable, but someone like Pirtek will make up new hoses for a reasonable cost using your old hose ends. Don’t be tempted to try re-using the old hoses

Thanks Jonathan,
Were you able to reach the fixings to remove the cooler from the rear? or is it a hand through the bumper lower hole to reach? Also, did cool experts send dowty seals included?
Cheers, N

[Saltire]

Well, we’re talking nearly six years ago, and my memory is not what it was, but I don’t think I removed the lower grille mesh, but went in from the rear. I had some seals anyway, but the CoolExperts folks may well supply them if you ask.

[Simon_P]

Neil, I had a similar experience to you - in my case taking to the grass verge to avoid a madcap oncoming combine driver

It was only a small leak... The oil cooler is on the offside - that's quite a lot of avoiding a combine!

The bolts jam in the rivnuts so it can be a pain to remove and replace. Additional access from below by removing the rubber bung. Also the inner hose is a tight fit - easier with the bumper off

Be aware of the original oil cooler and hence banjo thread are different to commonly available oil coolers. You can get an adapter that screws in, but that adds to the height and makes an already tight inner hose almost impossible to install without pulling or chaffing.

If you are getting it made by Coolex it may be worth having a discussion here on the design - Correct threads, improved mountings and clearance above and below to make it less venerable to Kerbs and easier to install.

[Saltire]

Neil, I had a similar experience to you - in my case taking to the grass verge to avoid a madcap oncoming combine driver

It was only a small leak... The oil cooler is on the offside - that's quite a lot of avoiding a combine!

Well,my thread originally started with a discussion about the water radiator But the hugefullness of the combine was terrific