Lossing coolant head gaskets ?

[esp88]

Just replaced the oile cooler and now lossing the coolant !
What a luck
I Started replaced themstat but it was to late not help and today checked the all plugs out and I can see
the first head was not dry ....

OK, I have to replace the headgasket ! (it looks Not easy job is it )
Alternative is I have a spare engine which stored for a few years.
So, thinking just swap the engine but I never tried Elan engine out before and it's Not easy job either ?

Any comments

Thanks

Y.Hotta

P.S . See you folks Lotus 60th Anniversary

[dapinky]

Yasuo,

I had exactly the same choice earlier this year - i went for the complete engine/gearbox swap.

It took me just over 2 days, and apart from the lack of room in the engine bay, it is very straightforward.

I now have a chance to re-build the other engine on a workbench.

[Rambo]

Yassuo - have you done a sniffer test (header tank sniff for hydrocarbons/unburnt gases) and cylinder compression test to confirm your diagnosis ? Are you sure you aren't just leaking coolant from a hose joint ??

[esp88]

Thanks for the reply folks !

Well, I checked houses connections but losing 1 liter coolant for just 40 km driving and not I can see any drop coolant ! When I Checked the plugs first cylndiner, I can see the top of postion was looks wet and running engine very strange some time !
So, I think Head gasket leak (enging has almost 120000miles)

Thanks Dapinky It's nice to know some body done before !
What spare parts we need !
I know drive shifts clpis need replace and I have to removed the turbo, so I need some gaskets !

Y.Hotta

[dapinky]

Call me a cheapskate if you want - but i spent nothing! (except oil , filter etc)

(Gary would call it good stewardship of finances)

The exhaust manifold / head gasket came off intact and undamaged, so it could be used again (it doesn't leak) as it isn't done up too tight. If you remove the exhaust front pipe from pre-cat chamber, then the turbo will come out attached to the manifold, once you remove the studs from the head (and undo a few other bolts, mainly near to the power steering pump).

As for the circlips, i asked a few other people and found that no-one else had bothered to replace them when replacing driveshafts, as they have little lateral loading and do not generally wear. (if you find that they are quite loose, they are cheap enough to buy anyway!)

Personally, i found it quicker to do the whole swap (and it gave me a chance to clean up the engine bay, change the gear oil etc) than when i did the cambelt and HG last time.

[rip]

I can see the top of postion was looks wet and running engine very strange some time !
So, I think Head gasket leak (enging has almost 120000miles)

I'm afraid I think head gasket too.

[esp88]

Many thanks for advices folks

Yesterday I started to clean the spare engine and what I found a lille mus had a hus under the inlet manifold !
So, started to clean with engin cleaner etc... At the same time I order a new cluch kit,waterpump and tensioner bearing (Rockauto), and clips, gaskets some other SJ) yesterday.
I will take out engine next few days but As all you know 60th Anniversary next weekend and
expecting parts from Rockauto 10th, so I will takeing some picture before I removing the engine out.
and labeling the cables,horses ... also replaceing the waterpump/timing belt before put engine in !

So, lot of work I have to do

Y.Hotta

[esp88]

Today started disassmble most of the parts (horses,airfiter box gearcabling etc...)

Now I think missing disconnect alternater/starter cable out and drive shift and rear engine mount !
So I can lift the engine out !
But any easy way to slove these prolems :
- How /where should access these rear enging mount bolts ?
- how to pull out drive shift ( I already removed top ball joints)
- how to disconnect alternater connector I can't to see from under (maybe remove alernator ?)

Any advice/suggestions

Y.Hotta

[dapinky]

Yasuo,

The rear engine mounting is quite awkward to get to - the best way that i could find was to use a couple of long extension bars with a socket on the end, and go from the right-hand side wheel arch (passenger side on a Euro elan, drivers side on a UK model).

Some of the bolts are 19mm captive bolts, some are 17mm with nuts on - so you will need an assistant holding a spanner from behind the gearbox.

The driveshafts just pop out (i used a small pry bar between the gearbox and the actual driveshaft, it doesn't need much force to seperate them) there is enough movement in the driveshaft with just the top ball joint undone - you will not get the driveshaft out, but will be able to get them out enough to lift the gearbox away. I found it easiest on the long shaft (right side) to undo the bearing at the back of the engine block (2 x 14mm bolts) and pull the whole shat out of the gearbox - that splined joint will just pull out, as there is no circlip that side.

As for the altenator, by looking up from the right hand wheel arch, you should be able to reach the wiring conector (or by leaning in from by the power steering reservoir) to disconect the HT lead (13mm nut) - when you start to lift the engine, you can then pull the other connector off (plastic plug with 2 spade terminals) far easier than with it all fitted.

[esp88]

Hi

Many thanks Danpiky

I just following your advice and Finally engine out today !

So, Now hopping the some parts I order from SJ will arrive this week !

Y.Hotta

[dapinky]

Yasuo,

I'm glad it has worked for you!

I'm sure there are other people who may do it all different, but this is how i did it a couple of months ago.

From your pictures i see that you kept the turbo on the engine - that makes it a very tight fit (I'm sure you noticed that when it came out!)

I did it that way, but when i put it back in, i took the turbo/manifold/pre-cat chamber off in one piece and then refitted them when the engine was in - it is so much easier with that bit of extra room to move (saves the worry about the paintwork!)

Also, when it goes back in, remember to feed the driveshafts into the gearbox before the engine is fully lowered, and also reconect the altenator wires/plug and the oil pressure sender plug at the same time - it may save you a lot of reaching round into difficult to get at places

If you do take the turbo off, when replacing it, the oil return pipe (to the front of the block) needs to be fitted whilst positioning the manifold/turbo before you tighten up the bolts - otherwise it is very hard to get on again (Ailwyn will agree with me on that one!!) - and the oil feed pipe is awkward to get at with the engine in - but easier if you do it up before fitting the vibration damper at the front of the engine (It's a 17mm domed nut, and i used a variety of spanners and sockets before i found one that would do the job).

[ailwyn]

If you do take the turbo off, when replacing it, the oil return pipe (to the front of the block) needs to be fitted whilst positioning the manifold/turbo before you tighten up the bolts - otherwise it is very hard to get on again (Ailwyn will agree with me on that one!!) - and the oil feed pipe is awkward to get at with the engine in - but easier if you do it up before fitting the vibration damper at the front of the engine (It's a 17mm domed nut, and i used a variety of spanners and sockets before i found one that would do the job).

I've been scratching my head on this one, but I guess you mean fitting the oil return to the turbo? If so, yes, make sure all of the solid pipework is attached to the turbo before you re-fit, all the solid pipes meet rubber hoses at convenient locations that can easily be reached from above or under the car... replacing the nuts that attach the pipes to the turbo are a pig and it took me a fair while with a swivel extension bar and sockets to re-secure the oil return, mainly because your trying to reach around the exhaust downpipe (above the pre-cat) to get access.

[esp88]

Thanks folks

Today started swap the turbo and other things but it's really take a while to mount the Turbo, fisrt not much spaces and stud/nuts was hard to removed, also especailly top of the stud
also some hoses took very long time then I expected
next issue was join the engine and gearbox but no more time this weekend !
I'm packing now ! so, I can fly to U.K tomorrow !

See you folks at the 60th anv.

Y.Hotta

[esp88]

OK

After 60th anv. start to work again !

Now new cluch set, new waterpump and a timing belt the engine backin placed. while the engine was out notice some more work to do like replaced CV boots both side, old oile cooler/PAS horses now reaced (made by a local shop)
also replaced water horses to Semco horses and the expansion tank !

OK start engine few days ago but running not quite OK ?
cheched the plugs and notice no.4 was wrong ! (replaced fuel injector )
So, Now almost as before I think !
I think still more work to be done

I need to replace a enigne damper ! any alternative source ?

Y.Hotta