Leakproofing/stopping water leak questions

[madbilly]

Hi all,
I want to try and stop as many sources of leak as I can this week before I "dare" to go away on holiday in the car. I've been through the addendum to BK in the manual and worked out what could/should be done but I've got a few queries:

1. Is there meant to be a gap between the top of the mucket seal/stowage lid and the bottom of the hood? With the hood up, standing by the back end of the door looking diagonally backwards and looking slighly upwards under the lower edge of the hood I can see through to the inside of the car. It's not huge, about little finger size.

Driver mucket and roof gap.jpg

Passenger mucket and roof gap.jpg

2. Should the door weatherstrip (seal that goes all the way round it) overlap the window exterior wiper seal at the back end, or should it tuck underneath? One side of my car is one way the other is the other way.

Driver door weatherstrip.jpg

Passenger door weatherstrip.jpg

3. Can I "add" Sikaflex to the roof seals to fill in gaps and to reseal them where they've perished?

Driver roof seals gap.jpg

Driver A-pillar and header seal.jpg

Driver B-pillar gap.jpg

4. Sikaflex sealing between top-shell and bottom of windscreen, how far back towards the A-pillar should this go?

5. The mirror flanges on my car bend outwards at the top, probably due to age, anyone else got this problem and know a fix?

Driver mirror flange seal.jpg

Passenger mirror flange seal.jpg

6. The grommets providing access to the rear suspension top link inboard pivot bolts, supposedly in the boot, I can't find them, am I being daft or are they difficult to find? (I have removed the carpets)

7. Do the roofs need re-waterproofing at all? If so can anyone recommend a good product?

Cheers,
Will

[Rice crispy]

Will,
I've used sikaflex to repair seals, easiest way is to wrap in clingfilm where it meets any surface you don't want it to stick too. Cab't help with gaps etc but would assume there should be none, and Renovo is a good product to clean/colour/seal roof, I got a kit which had all 3 in from ebay IIRC. its not the cheapest but 2 years on still looks good.

David

[dapinky]

Will,

There shouldn't be a gap between the hood and rear deck. If there is, then the rear bracing arms need to be adjusted (rotate a cam on the frame) to take up the slack and allow full extension. There is a write-up which i did here which may help.

As far as the door mirrors go, I think they all look a bit like that and the best way to sort it, is to ignore it

[madbilly]

Hi David, thanks for the tip, I'll have a go with the sikaflex and some waterproofing stuff.

Dave, thanks for the welcome advice on the mirrors! The hood sits flush against the storage lid all the way round, the gap is where the storage lid's profile drops away as it approaches the door, clearer in my third pic. It might be totally normal, in which case I can ignore that too!

[DeanG]

The mirror flanges on my car bend outwards at the top on my Federal car. I could never figure out a fix for this.

[madbilly]

Well, after almost 2000 miles on my holiday to Germany I discovered that my leakproofing measures worked....apart from the fact I missed the fact the intermediate seal on the driver's side doesn't get anywhere near the window! Therefore when driving at speed the water creeps up the window, over the top and I get a wet shoulder!

The washer fluid bottle leaked from the cap so I think I need an O-ring on it. I also discovered water in the toolbox recess in the boot, but no real idea of where it came from - nothing else in the boot was wet and it's a long way from the washer fluid bottle to there without it being soaked up by the carpet. Any thoughts?

Only other issue was water pooling behind the seats when I parked it at a jaunty angle, but I think I can sort this with the door aperture leak proofing measures and perhaps increasing the height of the inside of the door sills.

Incidentally I think the gaps in 1. above are as intended, as I don't think any water came in through them.

[JonT]

The washer fluid bottle leaked from the cap so I think I need an O-ring on it.

I fixed mine by the suggestion of another member on here:
viewtopic.php?f=8&t=20369

[madbilly]

I've just noticed that the way the intermediate seal on the driver's side is mounted to the hood frame is different from the passenger side. On the passenger side there's a two spacers and a connecting bit of bent metal (spring?) between the frame and the seal carrier. I assume the passenger side is correct, so can I mend the driver's side with just spacers, or do I need the bent bit of metal too?

frame spacer spring.jpg

frame no spacer spring.jpg

I'm glad I spotted this as I was just going to sill the gap with Sikaflex, but making sure the seals are fitted correctly would be a better solution.