Outrigger Rust - looking for guidance

[Rob P]

Hi Guys

Currently working on modifying the interior of the elan and as such decided to lift the carpets, the pictures below show the rust found on the outriggers running along the sides of the car, I have checked the jacking points inside the panels and these are not rusty so it looks like the rust is restricted to the botom of the panel and only on the side panel and at the front of both sides with the Passenger side worse than the drivers.

Rust Passenger Footwell 3.jpg

Rust Passenger Footwell 4.jpg

Rust Drivers Footwell.jpg

Rust Drivers Footwell 3.jpg

Question is how much repair work is needed, would people start cutting away or at this point just rust treat these areas now they are fully dried out and look to seal the rest of the metal work with something like POR15. If I do ned to start cutting I believe the bottom fixing for this would need to be bonded, what bonding material would be used for that?

Would welcome peoples thoughts.

[epipete]

Check out (all 6 pages) this, I think, covers it all

viewtopic.php?f=30&t=17298&start=100&hilit=Outrigger

[Rob P]

Check out (all 6 pages) this, I think covers it all

viewtopic.php?f=30&t=17298&start=100&hilit=Outrigger

Cheers pete, I had read through that post but the examples in there seemed to be far more severe than what I unearthed on mine, just wondered if anyone thought this was major surgery here or just a small nip and tuck needed

Have to admit that although I'm competent with a welder, welding in such close proximity of Fibre Glass is giving me a few doubts

[epipete]

Yeah, I understand completely your reluctance on the welding front but you will need to determine the needs for yourself I'm afraid, it is worth remembering that the weld will not be along the bottom of the cill. Take particular trouble to ensure Jacking points and Seatbelt fixings are sound.

As a must you should buzz off all the obvious rust and the paintwork surrounding it, then it needs to be treated with something like Por15, to stabilise the situation.

The two problems that remain are 1) how to treat inside the cill members where you can't sand and 2) where the erosion has left a gap that is too large to bridge with filler (sikaflex).

The first problem can be addressed by using Dinitrol, sprayed in to the recess's but you will still be working on faith as you can't see either corrosion or treatment! The second, to be properly done, is by cutting out and welding a new section in!

It is worth replacing the old foam rubbish with Closed Cell Foam, I got mine from eBay this helps reduce the dampness that assists the corrosion process.

Finally, it'll be worth keeping an annual eye on it to make sure that your remedies are working.

Best luck

[Rob P]

Thanks Pete,

Sikaflex ordered and will be looking at digging out the dremel and small cutting disks, I fully appreciate that this will be a personal decision and appreciate your input which is spot on, I have treated the Rust as suggested and will be getting hold of a flexi camera to check the inside of the sills and as you suggest spraying with the necessary rust inhibitor and treating with dinitrol.

Think aleap of faith is required and getting the welder out will surely be on the agenda, I already have suitable sheet metal to make any patches up so that's not an issue.

Will have a read through the original Outrigger posts as well to rimind myself that it could be a whole lot worse

Thanks again for your feedback

BTW I had already ordered some closed cell foam from ebay to replace the sponges that were holding the water and causing a lot of this to occur so I think I'm moving in the right direction, now if only I can stop the water getting in there in the first place that would be momentus

[epipete]

Well, there was some discussion as to where the water was coming from a while back! Apparently, I think it was agreed that, the water is entering via the top of the A Pillars or through the door glass seals & in some later models holes were made in the Cills to allow for drainage!

Given that the cars all seem to leak like sieves then the logic is to mitigate the risk of corrosion by copious application of rust treatments, dimitrol, removing the old sponge and periodic inspections and treatments as applicable.

As a now known weakness I imagine that most of us either will have or will be undertaking the same tasks as you are embarking on now, given that it's taken 20years to manifest itself then I imagine a small bit of remedial work now will provide years of confidence.

[discovery]

What thickness did you use for the closed cell underlay?

[dapinky]

What thickness did you use for the closed cell underlay?

I believe that Pete got 12mm thick (from his other post link to fleabay) - but I used 10mm for mine - doubled up in places to retain the original carpet shape where necessary.

[Rob P]

I also used 10mm, however I wasn't reusing the original carpets as they were shot, so have replaced the carpet in the car myself, happy with the results, just awaiting delivery of a new set of Mats to finish the job off.

[yknot]

Have you considered hiring or buying a borescope camera to look inside those box sections? They can be obtained for not a lot of money and will give you a better picture of what you can't see in your photographs before squirting Dinitrol or Waxoil in there!

[Rob P]

Rust has been cut out and replaced from the trouble areas on the car and I was able to review the inside of the suspect areas including the jacking points which were all good and have now been treated as appropriate.
I know a few of the guys have borescopes and have used them for reviewing this area of the car but as I was cutting away metal anyway I didn't see the need for one.

Main concern now is to ensure as little water can get into the inside of the car as possible, that might be easier said than done

[nicowalker1]

Rob, at the next northern meet I may be asking you all about what and how as my drivers jacking point has gone so im planning on sorting this out this winter...

[Brit-Car-Nut]

Rust has been cut out and replaced from the trouble areas on the car and I was able to review the inside of the suspect areas including the jacking points which were all good and have now been treated as appropriate.
I know a few of the guys have borescopes and have used them for reviewing this area of the car but as I was cutting away metal anyway I didn't see the need for one.

Main concern now is to ensure as little water can get into the inside of the car as possible, that might be easier said than done

If you can't stop it from coming in, devise a way to get it to go away. Createa aslightly lower area in the floorpan and install a shielded drain or something similar.

All cars leak. The trick is to give the water somewhere or someway to drain.