Replacement driver side door lock

[blimeyme]

Hi, still new to this elan ownership thing so sorry if this is a much answered question already!
I have recently purchased an S2 no.420.
The driver door lock has been replaced a couple of years ago and operates manually with a different key , I think the original locks are long since gone.
The central locking doesn't work at all, is it possibly to do with this and is there a fix to get it working or is it just one of those things and best to leave it be, just means manually unlocking/locking each door every time like we did back in the 70/80's!!!!
Any pointers appreciated.
Many thanks and I'll try and get some piccies of Miss Elsie available soon ( M iss L C is what my other half calls the car....M _id L_ife C_ risis )!!!!!!!!
Cheers

[dapinky]

There are a couple of ways to sort this out - 1) do it with all new Lotus lock parts, together with what you already have (internally in the doors), or 2) add a new system.

(or a bit of a combination of both!).

New lock sets are still available from Lotus, but as the S2 uses the same key for everything, you would still have a different key for the ignition than the doors/boot - so there would be little advantage in doing that (IMO).

I would start with a couple of questions:- Does the OE alarm/immobiliser still work? - If not, do you want it to?

If the answer is "It works" then there is possibly 'just' an issue with the central locking module. If not, and you would like an alarm, then I'd consider fitting (or getting fitted) a full system which will operate both doors remotely - Many on here seem to like the TOAD system, but I've never had one (I have a Clifford on mine).

If you don't want the expense of a new alarm (or the old one works, but the doors don't link to it) - then a simple remote door locking system can be fitted quite easily - there are 2 basic types, one will be just a pair of fobs with a black box receiver which you need to wire into the current module/locks (costs under a tenner on ebay). But if the module is U/S, then the 'better' system will also provide some new solenoids to attach to the door lock internals to operate the doors.

You will still have 2 keys for the seperate doors, but at least you can open them both remotely.

A 'full' system can quite easily be implemented whereby a single fob will activate/deactivate the alarm, whilst locking/unlocking the doors.

Most new alarms also have a seperate function for additional output(s) - one of which can be wired to activate the boot lock (with the adition of a solenoid and a bit of fiddling about).

This is the system I (and many others) have gone for - it means that i don't have to worry about any door/boot keys on my keyring - just a fob and a single ignition key.

I keep a boot/door key (SE's have seperate keys for doors/boot to ignition) hidden in the car for emergencies - it is easy enough to open the car without a key if you know how - and don't mind about the alarm going off at the same time!

I keep a full set of keys with the spare fob at home (or hidden in the boot if I'm away for a length of time).

When the central locking is working properly, it doesn't really matter if the 2 doors have different locks.

[Fredjohn]

You do not say if the alarm is working, but not operating the locks. If it is, I would check that the solenoids on the locks are actually connected both electrically and physically.

And then have a fiddle with the CDL module, hidden below behind the dash on the driver's side and the CDL fuse which is under the top dash cover in front of the steering wheel. Also check that the alarm module is connected to the CDL wiring.

If you are not comfortable doing this, you may need an auto-electrician to help out. All info is in the Elan M100 electrical manual available on here to download.

Once you've tried these, then go into dapinky's detailed suggestions above.

I have an SE that was fitted with a defunct non Lotus alarm. I had it replaced with a Scorpion alarm which works everything including my boot release. The alarm was supplied and fitted (and removed) for £200 by a Coventry fitter, who did a very good professional job.

[blimeyme]

Thanks for the detailed Information provided..I'll have a think about what to do with it all and I'm sure the answer is definitely in there so Thank You., you've saved me alot of time and energy trying to work all this out as a newbie owner.
The alarm/immobiliser was ripped out a few years ago and a predator 2 immobiliser fitted which I have all the paperwork but I have no idea if it actually works or not !!
Thanks again for the helpful replies, its great to be involved with a forum that actually helps out and is so welcoming, most other forums cannot say the same.
Cheers

[Enright]

Can you get ANY life out of the central locking & courtesy light system at all?

Try (with the roof down to save any "embarrassing situations") operating both locks in turn from outside, operating both plungers in turn from inside, and locking each door with the plunger while it is open and then shutting the door. Note any helpful clicks or clunks for things trying to operate at any point. Also note the state of the lights built into the undersides of the rear view mirror for clues.

The lights should come on as soon as either door is not closed fully, and when the last door is shut they should have a delay of about 10 seconds to them before turning off. Also note that by pulling out the side/headlamp switch you should be able to turn on the interior lights without opening any doors. Quite a few people have not noticed or forgotten about this feature and then flattened their batteries!

It would be worth checking that the bulbs and courtesy light fuses are all good at this time too.

The courtesy light switches are part of the lock/latch mech so any failure of the lights to work properly could hint at problems with plugs coming loose or wiring breaking.

If the interior lights work as they should then that's cause for optimism, but each latch/lock mechanism still has a separate plug for the solenoid.

When either door is locked while open the opposite one should lock too, but shutting the door should push the plunger up so the unlock again to hopefully safeguard against you being able to lock your keys inside.

If all else fails and you want to pop round for a few pointers on Sunday (weather permitting), drop me a PM.

[blimeyme]

Thanks so much for this.
I've sent a PM but as I'm still getting used to all this please let me know if it doesn't land and I'll have another go!!!!
Many thanks.

[Enright]

I had a very interesting visit from Paul ("Blimeyme") on Sunday.

His Elan is one that a lot would be envious of. An S2 with just over 41000 on the clock, flawless Palacio paintwork and lots of nice tasteful upgrades.

It's just a bit of a shame that someone had replaced his driver's door lock with an odd one - although they probably didn't have a choice, and they did at least helpfully provide the other locks in a little plastic bag! Someone had also bypassed the alarm to fit some sort of immobiliser (which had the effect of killing the central locking).

The replacement door lock had come loose and the rod was no longer connected to the latch/actuator mechanism. A simple enough fix in theory, but you know what our doors are like to disassemble, and how fiddly access is once you finally get inside. The rod itself was even fouling the window, so clipping it back in place sorted out 2 problems in one. Cue happy chap.

Then, with manual locks working as they should I moved onto investigating why the central locking wouldn't operate. I was unaware until I found this thread later (viewtopic.php?f=32&t=20960) that they dispensed with the CDL module for S2's and controlled the locks directly.

Muley, if you're reading this I'd be very interested to hear what you went for as an alternative, and what was involved in changing it.
Having seen "Addict's" solution though, I'd suggest that this might be a good way to go for Paul. If he's happy with his immobiliser, then provided a CDL could relatively easily be obtained and "plugged & played", this would give him a central locking as originally designed.
Dave, I don't know about the merits of the Clifford or Toad systems, and whether they just output a trigger signal to an existing central locking setup, or directly power it. I guess that's where the big difference comes in between SE and S2.

[dapinky]

Dave, I don't know about the merits of the Clifford or Toad systems, and whether they just output a trigger signal to an existing central locking setup, or directly power it. I guess that's where the big difference comes in between SE and S2.

Neil, not much of a clue - I don't know enough about electrics.....

....however, I know that the Clifford has a variable output pulse (negative or positive) so it will work with almost any car, but the pulse (variable/settable length) has to activate something - and whether the door locks in themselves would count as a 'somnething' I don't know, as for the Toad - dunno - i was merely conveying information as to what other people have fitted.