Turbo coolant supply

[epipete]

Using one of Jeemys pictures (thanks . ) Ivan see that the pipe supplying the turbo can be removed via two bolts, I want to remove this pipe in order to access a broken stud that the pipe fouls so I can re-fix the heat shield bracket and at the same time de-rust and paint the pipe.



My query, as Jeemy doesn't seem to have got this far, is, on reassembly, is there anything that need to be done to ensure a watertight seal?

Pete

[Brit-Car-Nut]

When you remove the flange, make sure the gasket comes off in one piece. If it tears, make a replacement since the parts guide doesn't show that to be a removable part.

Most parts suppliers offer gasket material. Just get something the same thickness and use a deep socket to create any holes by sandwiching the gasket material between a socket and a solid, smooth surface and hit the socket with a hammer. It will cut a nice hole. If you hold it off angled, you will get a partial cut but just square it up and hit the socket again and you will make a pretty gasket. Cut the outside shape AFTER punching the holes - it gives you more to grip during the hole punchings.

Sometimes heater valve and thermostat gaskets are a close match, so you can try looking at those at the DIY too.

Of course, leather punches work well too.

[Andy_J]

I think there are 2 copper washers either side of the pipes rather than a gasket. So I would suggest replacing the copper washers. If it a gasket then BCN has already covered that

[Brit-Car-Nut]

The parts book only shows the banjo bolt and the two crush washers A100F6250S, but Pete said it was held down by two bolts, hence the gasket reference. I didn't go out and check the actual turbo on my car.

[GeoffSmith]

Two copper washers for an S2.

[epipete]

Guys, thanks for the advice, either way I have a solution and if it turns out that they're copper then I shall store John's methodology for future reference, I figure it will come in handy sometime.

[HJ2]

Hi!

The top pipe in the picture seals with copper (crush) washers
There are 2 banjo bolts, so 4 in total. I removed the small sheet of metal that holds both parts together so it becomes more easy to get then on and off.

There is a pipe on the bottom as well, this one has a classic paper seal. This seal is included in the top end set from Rockauto. I know, i fixed one last week

[epipete]

Right, managed to remove the banjos (and the pipes), and yes, on my SE they are copper washers - are these reusable, ie will they re tighten on rebuild or do I need to replace?

HJ, re: the 'small sheet of metal' I presume you mean the piece that links the two holes in which the banjos go through?

To my amusement (It would be annoyance but I need to keep a sense of humour) the broken bolt that I need to drill out is now accessible (I think) but another one broke on removing the fixing bracket for the pipes and this one is a a very bad angle for drilling.

[HJ2]

I always recommenced new CU washers. They will cost you virtualy nothing. If you want to re-use, heat them up with a flameso they get soft again, than sand both fitting surfaces of the rings.

Yup, that's the piece i mean

Good luck with the drilling!

[Brit-Car-Nut]

Pete: Usually crush washers are reusable but sometimes they aren't. If they have "crush" indentations on either side, it is best to replace. If they are nice and smooth, then reuse. Torque the banjo bolts to the proper spec.

There are pages of advice available to suggest the best way to drill out a bolt, but the most important bit of advice I can offer is to try to get the drilling surface as flat as possible and try to carefully find the center. Use a center punch to give your pilot drill bit a good place to start from. Work out the best way to hold the drill to keep it in line with the bolt's direction or angle. Use a lot of lube to keep the drill bit cool. Start small and slowly work up in diameter until you are able to get a good "bite" on the bolt and remove it. It is really hard to get exactly in the center, so watch your hole size because one area will eventually drill into the threads and that causes other repair work.

I don't know how common they are in the UK, but I use LH turning bits once I get my starting hole drilled. If you are removing an 8mm bolt, you can use any drill up to around 3mm but then start using LH bits because it is possible that at some point, as the center gets drilled away, the bolt will break free and turn out with the drill bit.

You might consider posting a picture of the work area. Someone else might have had to do the same task and might be able to provide specific hints, tips or warnings from their adventure.

When it comes to removing stuborn hardware, heat is often a big help. You often see or hear the phrase heat wrench. A well placed torch along with good penetrating fluid are a mechanic's best friend.

[epipete]

Thanks HJ & John, very useful.

The banjos that came out are a bit care worn, the threads are a little bit pitted, I guess after 20 odd years this is acceptable but the cost of new ones seems minimal and they come with new washers, is there any reason not to do so and would stainless be satisfactory?

Pete

[Brit-Car-Nut]

Stainless Banjo Bolts would probably be OK, but you would have to make sure they were identical. Crush washers need to be brass or copper depending on the design. Conformation with the original is highly recommended. Lotus doesn't sell the banjos bolts with the washers, so whoever you got that from is pairing them on their own.

[Jeemy]

I HAVE rebuilt this stage and bought 2 packs of 100 copper washers. So I have millions spare.

However access to these is not easy due to my injury, I don't know where they are and can't tear everything apart to check.

We got a lot done clearing up today, I had some help.

I measured them with a vernier calliper and the measurements are on my thread, from memory they were 1mm x 12 x 16 or something like that. There were 2 sizes I needed to get one for the oil and one for the coolant as I recall.

If you need the washers and have time to wait I can post you a set free of charge. If you are in a rush and can't find the info its already on here on another thread too, or I might have it written down somewhere.

If I could remember where they are it would be fine, I just can't be tearing shelves to pieces. I'm back working now and sore but functional. I'll try to look on the weekend but can't make promises, I've got to get these hubs packed before I can do anything else.

I also had to drill out the one of the same bolts you are struggling with; it was really easy, they are not high tensile to my recollection. Banjos were fine. I soaked them in Ferrosol I think it was, and they came up gleaming. I think you might find them acceptable with a clean but have no idea whether stainless would be a good or bad choice for replacements, can't see why it wouldn't to my mind.

Obviously I then painted the heads with my favourite brand of rust preventative paint.

[Peter_W]

The copper sealing washers needed are 10mm inner x 16mm outer, and 12mm x 18mm. No local stores in my area stock metric copper washers, so I got mine off
Ebay here: www.ebay.com/itm/160934255269 and www.ebay.com/itm/161081965844

[GeoffSmith]

Heat them red hot and quench in water.

[epipete]

You might consider posting a picture of the work area. Someone else might have had to do the same task and might be able to provide specific hints, tips or warnings from their adventure.

When it comes to removing stuborn hardware, heat is often a big help. You often see or hear the phrase heat wrench. A well placed torch along with good penetrating fluid are a mechanic's best friend.

Well all my current issues are with broken studs in the exhaust manifold the top two (which hold the heat shield bracket) are now out but I needed to remove the turbo water pipes to gain access to the right hand one and I so doing the bolt holding the pipe bracket sheared as per the picture.

image.jpg

This is a major problem as access is nigh on impossible

[epipete]

I'm now back on track with my mini project. The Radiator will go back in tonight and the final hoses attached.

This leaves me tomorrow with the final issues of replacing the broken bolt on the thermostat housing and either replacing the banjos for the turbo water supply or using the old ones with new washers.

The banjos are proving difficult to obtain and I will try Merlin's at Castle Coome tomorrow but, of interest, were I to reuse the old banjo bolts how do I remove the old washers which are so compressed against the bolt head as to be almost fused - is there a trick?

Pete

[Jeemy]

Washer in vice, tap bolt away with hammer?

[epipete]

Thanks Jeemy - that worked a treat!

[RayD]

It is really hard to get exactly in the centre,

Most of you will know this ... if you start drilling slightly off centre and while the cut is still in the countersink stage, put a series of centre punch marks (or a single chisel mark) in the direction you want the hole to move, it will have the effect of dragging the drill into line. You may have to do it twice. The idea stops working once the CSK section ends.

Drill.jpg

Ray