Regulator Assembly - Has anyone got one

[Elan1]

Hi,

My S2s regulator assembly (RH) has given up the ghost and I'm reliably informed by my husband that we need a new one! He spoke to Paul Mattys about trying to fix it and they just laughed and said it would be easier to buy a new one than trying to get the cables back in the right position/tension etc. (far too technical for me )

So, am I best just to buy a new one, or has anyone got a good second hand one they want to sell?

Am I right in thinking, if I buy new, the part no. is B100B0078F. What would come with it and what else would I need to get at the same time.

Any help gratefully appreciated.

[Doc Fizzix]

If the cost is anything like in the states, just buy a new one and be done with it. In the staes you can get a new one for around $140.00, not that big of an investment. For the amount of work required to replace the regulator, you will be glad you put in a new one.

Hope this helps, Good luck

[chris]

Hi Elan1,

My drivers side regulator has also broken. The motor only goes down but not up....so I followed the recommended fix as shown on this site but to no avail. I've striped the motor completely, replaced the brushes, eliminated the bi-mettaliic thermal/current cutout and it still doesn't work. I can only assume that the windings have gone such that the motor only works in one direction ! I have also checked the switch output voltage is +12V & -12V.

At this stage I have resigned myself to buying a new regualor assembly.....approx £150 + vat. If anybody out there knows what other car our regulator was used on I'd be really interested to know. The actual motor itself looks similar to a Citreon AX unit which I will check out at the weekend.

In the meantime if anyone else has some bright ideas ?????

Chris.

[Doug]

I know I am on the wrong side of the Atlantic, but I seem to remember the headlight motor [isn't this what you are referring to??] may also be in GM cars like the Firebird/Trans-Am and Corvette from the early 90's. I doubt you have any in wrecking yards over there but just trying to give info . . .

[Doc Fizzix]

hmmm

Did I screw-up? I just assumed since the topic was under the "doors and Windows" section that you were talking about the window motor, sorry

[Doug]

well, FCUK me then!

I was using the recent posts page, which doesn't tell you the exact section the thread is in

yeah, I don't think the window reg is in any other car.

[Doc Fizzix]

yeah, I don't think the window reg is in any other car.

Doug, tell me if I am wrong, but I thought there was a cross referance for the electric window motor with regulator?

Are we talking about the window or was I the one that "F_ ck-ed up"?

[Doug]

I have limited Elan window knowledge/experience -- Darren is the window guru.

[Sy V]

Darren is indeed the window god. But I thought it was a peugeot/renault unit, but it may be that my ageing brain is all befuddled!

[Doc Fizzix]

Please for give me, but I am sure there was a cross reference. I will look through my info in the morrning.

[Elan1]

Mine is definitely a window regulator problem. If it is from another make and someone can find the link, that would be great.

If I do have to buy new, does anyone know what else I may need to order with it, or will it come with everything it should??

Thanks

[Doc Fizzix]

You can also try this little fix, might work and be a cheap solution:

http://lotuselancentral.com/lec/windowfix.htm

[Elan1]

I wish it were so simple The problem we have (so my husband reliably informs me!) is with the cables - getting them back in the right position/right tension?? Paul Mattys had this problem on someones car a few weeks ago and spent hours trying to sort it. In the end they rang the owner up to say it would be cheaper to buy the regulator assembly and have it fitted, than to carry on with trial and error. They advised us to do the same.

[Doc Fizzix]

No cable problem. The motor, regulator, and rail come out as one unit. There is no need or reason to disconnect the cables. You can still remove the whole unit and service it outside of the door and then put it back. This is how the assemble was designed, to come out as a unit.

[Gazza]

Hello Elan1
I have had the same problem twice on my 1st elan, when the window dropped causing the cables to tangle up. Trust me it is best to buy a new motor and throw the other one away.
I fitted both myself, not easy or a quick job but can be done by someone like me without much knowledge.

[Doc Fizzix]

If the cost is anything like in the states, just buy a new one and be done with it. In the staes you can get a new one for around $140.00, not that big of an investment. For the amount of work required to replace the regulator, you will be glad you put in a new one.

Hope this helps, Good luck

I suggested the same thing, buy a new motor they are cheap and it is an easy fix once you get the door panel off. BUT, if you are up for some fun you can always try to repair it. Like all do-it-yourself projects, it is always a learning experiance

[Darren]

I was advised a long time ago, that the motor was out of a Peugeot 405 of the same year. So since we don't have a local Peugeot breakers in my area I bought a left and right assembly off the Net.

So I confirm with a great deal of accuracy that the assembly in a Peugeot 405 ARE NOT the same as the ones in the Elan, ok, there are some items that look similar but you would't be able to do too much without a full stripe of the donor item etc.

Now unless someone can prove me different, I'm going to stick to my own experiances of wondering the breaker yard & confirm that our unit is a bespoke unit, made specifically for the Elan but using similar components to those used on other cars. As lets face it, would Lotus make a door to fit a motor assembly or get a motor assembly to fit the door ?

On the earlier subject of the motor rotation, the motor DOES rotate in both directions, this is controller by the two relays under the steering column (RHD). I can confirm that the I too have had a similar fault to the one you mention i.e where the window will only move in one direction, this turned out to be a faulty relay. So if I were you, I'd remove both relays from the working side of the car and replace them with the none working side. Or at the very least, swap them round (up & down relays), I'd also be inclined to check your switch etc. To conclude, if the motor goes one way, then it should go the other way also.

Owwwwww the connector into the motor can also be a little suspect.

I've got both doors to stripe out over the winter, as I've got a few new bits to try out, so I'll try and knock up a definative guide on window repairs.

Darren.

[Elan1]

Many thanks for all of your replies.

We are going to order a new unit tomorrow. Hubby has managed to get the window to go a little way back up, but because of the problems with the cables and tension etc, it won't go all the way back up unless, with a lot of work and luck, you get things exactly in the right place - we haven't been able to do this.

Oh well, I'm sure we can thow another £180.00 at this car (I love my Lotus, I love my Lotus!)

[chris]

I have managed to get to the bottom of my window problem (only going down and not up). After stipping the motor down and replacing the brushes, replacing the broken plastic clip between the window and slide rail I have eventually traced the fault to the relay !

The relay's are really easy to get to (just above the drivers footwell)...all you need to do is swap the two drivers door relays with the two passenger door relays to prove a relay is at fault.

Well worth checking before you dish out £200 + pounds on a complete new regulator assembly.

Chris.

[chris]

Oh yes and to get the cable tension, cables back into the correct position was a piece of cake.....the tension you can't adjust; there are two springs at either end of the rail which give the cable tension. Winding the cables around the spool is also easy; position the slider centrally and wind equal cable from the outside of the spool for each end of the cable. There is really only one position......if you are one complete turn out, the cable is either massively overtight or slack. You can check you've got it right by plugging it in before you re-install it.

Total cost of repair including a few spares for next time....£30 + 1 day messing about.

Chris.