Valve guide oil seals

[Brit-Car-Nut]

The Lotus uses a DOHC engine, not the SOHC.

[Robert_P]

The Lotus uses a DOHC engine, not the SOHC.

Yes John, I know. The valves are the same, just more of them.

Bob

[Robert_P]

Hello Folks,

Replaced the valve seals on the vehicle about a week and a half ago. Same seals as pictured previously at the beginning of this topic.

Had a bit of trouble with the first tool used because the 'feet' on the jaws that wrap around the valve springs were too long and angled causing the feet to damage the seal (fortunately only happened removing the first two). Getting straight on the intake valves is a PITA because the common chamber wraps around the head and creates interference. So not just any spring compressor will work. Even the one shown in the manual won't work unless the handle on top can be removed in a tighter spot.

The new tool from KDTools - KDT3271 is not much bigger than my PC mouse and the handle comes off so you can spin it with a 5/8" wrench or socket and ratchet. The jaws have flat'ish feet that are not as deep or angled, and are a bit wider than the other tool and should not interfere with the oil seal. The tool slides on from the side, hen over the retainer.

Long and short, new valve seals (second set in less than 2,000 miles), a new modulator valve on the automatic (small hole in the diaphragm pulling trans oil) and some running around town and on the highway and the oil issue is solved.

It does burn some oil. Seems to me it always did, like maybe an Imperial quart every 2,000 miles. These 1.6 SOHC automatics rev kind of high on the highway; - no fourth gear or lock up torque converter.

With new rings it now has a flat 200 lb compression on 4 cylinders. Should easily pass an e-test now.

Cheers!

[Robert_P]

Okay, I've dug out the old ones, and got the new ones out of the storage depot......

....no pics yet - batteries are flat in the camera

But the info i have at the moment is that the new ones are the same as the old ones (allowing for a bit of wear to the rubber bits) when measured with digital callipers.

The new ones I have are Beck/Arnley ones, P/N 022-1646 (albeit that Beck/Arnley are merely a US distributor of parts, not a manufacturer) - and they are made in Japan

The bar code on the pack (of 4) is 0 49797 35923 6 (but i don't believe this to be the same as a part number)


Pics will follow when i can get some electric, daylight and eyesight.

What I have found with Beck/Arnley is that they will buy up old new stock from OEMs. If it appears on RockAuto it is often a good idea to buy it when you see it, assuming that you will have a need for it in the near future. If a part appears as a closeout, better snap it up quickly. I bought a complete Isuzu upper cylinder kit straight from Isuzu Japan from Beck/Arnley for $54 USD. Last time I checked, RockAuto had no more of these kits, just the RNJ ones.