If it isn't too much to ask...

[Jimmer]

...would someone mind taking a look at this:

I've just had the head removed and gasket fitted along with idler, timing belt etc. It sounds much smoother than it used to and feels great. I just would like some peace of mind that it's all error free.
I wasn't accelerating very hard today but the boost seems quite high while the power looks low. I know it's not that accurate, but does this look right?
By the way, I was bedding the brakes in at the time. My driving's not normally quite so erratic.

[GeoffSmith]

Thermostat is sticking - seems to work once, then coolant temperature goes sky high.

Boost is high - have you got an Everest?

Power is proportional to speed so if you're not at full throttle and full revs, you won't get full power - 100BHP @ 4000RPM --> 175BHP @ 7000 RPM.

[Jimmer]

Good man Geoff. Thanks

Thermostat is brand new - been in the car for a few months and about 20km. I wouldn't want to buy a new one. Is it worth removing it and soaking it in...erm...something? Could this have been caused by dirty coolant?
I have no idea if it's been chipped. A bit hot out today so don't want to start poking around looking for the ECU. I'd be very surprised if it has though. I'll try to find out.

[Enright]

Geoff,
Could the sky high coolant temp be because of the environment?
Can't be easy for any car on "The Sun's Anvil".

[GeoffSmith]

Could well be. Temperature rises when you're bedding in the brakes from 15-50MPH then starts coming down at a steady 50MPH.

[Jimmer]

Can't be easy for any car on "The Sun's Anvil".

Shame it's been sat in the garage throughout the best winter I can remember. Today must be the hottest day so far this year.
I'll run another scan on the way back to the workshop and see what happens.

[Jimmer]

Here's the second half of this evening's drive. Air temperature was still quite high - probably over 30 degC. Car was well warmed up when I started logging.

temp.JPG

With all the coolant problems I was experiencing, I changed the thermostat some time back. It currently has a standard thermostat with a Dickman's low temp switch.
Clearly it's getting too hot.
Can someone please tell me what controls the height of the peaks and what controls the depth of the troughs? I assume the thermostat then the switch respectively.
If this is correct then by changing the thermostat to a lower temp version, the peaks would drop and the fluctuations tighten up.
You'll see that after about 500secs, I was crawling through traffic. Around 10 minutes before the end I switched the AC on. That seems to cooincide with the temp staying fixed around the 98degC mark.
Can anyone explain what's going on here?

09_04_11 jim2 ecu.zip

[Enright]

Can someone please tell me what controls the height of the peaks and what controls the depth of the troughs? I assume the thermostat then the switch respectively.

I would have thought that the switch would control the height of the peaks - the thermostat only really helps get the engine up to temp in the first place. Once it's open it should stay open.

[Jimmer]

Relocated to problems need help.

[GeoffSmith]

I took the sawtooth to be the thermostat operating at 90-95°C (rather than 80-85°C) but of course it's not! It's the Dickman low temperature switch making the fans kick in and cooling things down. If you look at your first ES trace, you can see the effect of the thremostat which knocks the temperature back from 85 to 81°C at about 120s. The fans then kick in a lot earlier than you'd normally see because of the low temperature switch. Basically, nothing to worry about, it all makes sense now!

The fan switch will control the peak and the trough is dependent on the fan switch hysteresis - a function of its design and the thermal lag in the temperature of the switch dropping.

No need for help!

[Jimmer]

Thanks Geoff, that's a relief. I thought I had bought the 185-195 Dickman but must have gone for the 200-210, which matches the graph perfectly when converted to degC.
Now I just need to work out why by boost is up at 0.9 while power is only at 150hp. I'll take a look at the ecu later this week for starters.

[Jimmer]

Sorry chaps, can I ask someone to take a gander at this elanscan log?

jim3.zip

There's a couple of concerns I have - firstly, under hard acceleration the engine stalled today. The orange warning light came on for a minute then everything seemed to go back to normal and the light went off again. I ran this elanscan after but didn't get a recurrence.
Secondly, what does the wastegate overboost fault mean? I have an aftermarket exhaust but had the wastegate ported recently. I was planning on wiggling the wastegate to see if it would cure the high boost measured last time I ran elanscan. The boost pressure seems to have dropped a little now but will still have a wiggle at the weekend.
All comments most welcome. Thanks in advance, Jim.

[rip]

Overboost is when the boost creeps up to a certain limit & the ECU cuts power as a safety measure. It will limit you to 4000rpm for about 30 seconds or so. With a stock chip, overboost is 0.94 bar.
With a large bore exhaust, the answer is to port the wastegate but, since you have already done that, I would guess that you may need to do the wastegte wiggle.
This is because the injector system is running flat out & to have any more boost would risk too weak a mixture which can cause pre-ignition & melt your pistons.

I've just looked at your log file but it doesn't show overboost occurring, which would have been useful.
Here is a log file of mine which shows overboost. If you look at the boost creeping you'll see it overboosts at about 1626 seconds & faults then jump from 0 to 4000. My wastegate is working fine apart from being too small for my Piper exhaust.

[GeoffSmith]

The overboost error flag is obviously set from your previous problem - you could do with determining if it is overboosting because the wastegate port is not big enough or whether the wastegate is sticking. Looking at the ES run, you could do with getting your foot to the floor as you will only get maximum boost with WOT.