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by johnj » Thu 11.08.2022, 21:20
Hi
I hope someone will be able to help me. The car runs an Everest Chip, K and N air filter and 2 1/2 inch exhaust. The car has never really boosted as I would expect. After a post by Elanlover I adjusted the throttle cable correctly and took the car for a run. It seemed more responsive throughout the rev range and the boost seemed to cut in a lot more than it has before

and boosted to 0.9 bar. This has never been repeated

. The throttle cable has not slipped back. I have posted the ElanScan from the time the car boosted to 0.9 bar and from the last time I took the car out. I hope someone who can read the scans can see a difference between the two scans and tell me if they can see any problem(s) the car may have and hopefully how to remedy them.
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by Rambo » Sat 13.08.2022, 22:03
My gut feel is that your actuator rod may be stiff or stuck. Does it work freely? If not you need to do the "wastegate wiggle" or get your bicycle pump out
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by johnj » Sun 14.08.2022, 15:50
Thanks for the input. I will try the wiggle when I get home. Currently swapping the sun of Cumbria for the sun of Malta
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by Simon_P » Sun 14.08.2022, 23:52
Looking at both scans I notice that the boost control solenoid isn't energised on the second one. So you aren't going to get more than the boost pre-set in the actuator.
Probably because the MAP doesn't exceed the threshold.
Something doesn't appear to be right - Difficult to tell much else because your foot is flapping up and down on the accelerator and you don't use anywhere near enough engine revs

find a nice straight piece of road and accelerate hard up through the rev range in 3rd. Also leave part of the scan in the middle where the engine is up to temp and idling - it helps to see what else is going on.
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by johnj » Mon 22.08.2022, 16:39
Hi Simon
Thanks for having a look at the scans. I live in a rural, some might say back of beyond, area,where the roads are based on sheep tracks, short straights lots of blind corners and hidden dips. I have found somewhere that I hope gives you the kind of information you require. If not let me know what else is required. Thanks
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by johnj » Wed 07.09.2022, 21:56
I attempted the 'wastegate wiggle' using a pair of pilers but found it very difficult so used the pump method. I found this a lot easier, the rod seemed to move easily. The rod did not look too rusty but I rubbed it down with some wet and dry. Then I wanted to put some copper slip on the moving parts. The rod goes under the turbo so I cannot see how everything is connected. I felt along the rod and it wasn't connected to anything. I have managed to reconnect the rod to the wastegate but it appears it can come off again. Is there something that keeps the rod connected to the wastegate?
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by TorqueHorse » Thu 08.09.2022, 02:07
johnj wrote:... Is there something that keeps the rod connected to the wastegate?
Yes, there should be a little C clip that snaps in a groove at the end of the rod that goes through the wastegate arm plate. Since it's on a plane perpendicular to the main movement of the rod, one would think there isn't much force and it's just to prevent it from jiggling loose. Perhaps a sandwich bread bag twist tie (or similar small metal wire) could be looped around in the groove enough to hold it.
-Matt N
'91 FED M100 -rolling resto...and come to Salt Lake City, for the very first truly national Lotus Car Club event for the USA: LUG September 24-28, 2026
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by Rambo » Thu 08.09.2022, 09:42
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by Graaf » Thu 08.09.2022, 16:40
Just wondering, how stiff should the actuator rod be to move?
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by Owen L » Sun 18.12.2022, 03:45
whatever happened here? did you get the Solenoid to energise eventually?
May the bridges I burn light the way.
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