ElanScan Review

[DeStijl]

Hi all,

Would anyone be able to have a look over the data in these two ElanScan files?

I've been having a number of ever-changing running issues, currently around stumbling at steady speed when warm and a high idle most of the time. I've fitted a new thermostat, coolant temp sensor and a new IAC valve fitted just last week.

For some reason however, the data transfer can be intermittent and generally stops transmitting shortly after the engine is started, which is why I could only get a couple of minutes from cold in the first file, then picking up from there in the second when it decided to keep working. This issue also seems to appear when in service mode - the CEL will flash as it should, before going steady if revved above 2000rpm.

Cheers,
Calum

[chrism]

Hi Calum. I'm no expert but I've compared your Escans (black + pink) to mine (blue) and most of your readings are similar to mine.



Your IAC posn is a bit different tho' (it's lower particularly when warm?) and I wonder if the new one 'conforms'? Is there a 'setting'* that you need to make, I wonder? Perhaps a 'guru' will advise?

I also noticed that someting happens in your data a bit beyond 400s (did you rev it or something?)

(ps Also did you load the new version of EScan that's a sticky on LEC?)

edit *I seem to remember from MGTF135 days about setting the IAC by depressing + releasing the accelerator slowly ~15x with ign on but engine not running to normalise it...might be relevant to m100?

[chrism]

Found this on Google - 20 steps rings a bell. Looking at the data graph in the prev post yours seems to get there when cold but falls well below when warm. I can't think why it should unless you have to manually reset a new IAC valve which I haven't needed to do myself...

Step-by-Step IAC and Idle Setting Procedure

Warm up the engine: Run the car until it reaches normal operating temperature and the cooling fans have cycled.

Access Service Mode: Locate the ALDL diagnostic connector (under the dashboard). Using a paper clip, short pins A and B (ensure you are not shorting pins F and G to avoid damaging your ECU).

Verify Service Mode: Turn on the ignition and start the engine. The "Check Engine" light should flash continually.

Set Base Idle:Locate the rubber plug on top of the throttle body.Remove the plug and use a flathead screwdriver to turn the throttle bypass (air) screw.

Adjust the bypass screw until the idle sits at roughly 950 RPM.

Reset the IAC:Slowly raise the engine speed above 2,000 RPM, then return the throttle to a closed position slowly.This procedure allows the IAC valve to reset to its base programmed position (approximately 20 steps).

Exit Service Mode: Turn off the engine, remove the paperclip from the ALDL, and restart the car.

[DeStijl]

Hugely appreciate your insight on this - that's really re-assuring that it all looks somewhat in the right ballpark.

I've just had it back from the third different garage since I bought the car last year and they've confirmed that there's a vacuum leak at the intake manifold gasket that only appears when up to temperature. I guess that would explain odd IAC position.

[chrism]

Yep makes sense...
Good to get feedback. Did you load the new ElanScan from the 'sticky' post? (ElanScab_beta_USB + updated protocol)

[DeStijl]

I did, along with trying several other settings, but it's been pretty unreliable for me. It may well be a coincidence, but weirdly it only ran for a consistent period of time when I put the headlights up. Normally it stops transferring data pretty quickly after starting the engine.

[chrism]

Hmm...my next thought might be to try to find a local LEC pal, and substitute lead, laptop, win version etc