Elanscan shows low boost

[Brit-Car-Nut]

I did a fast Google search on PS10075-11B1 and it fits a gazillion normally aspirated engines.

I believe you still have the wrong part.

Did a search of LEC Part Cross-Reference and came up with GM # 16009886. Searched Rock Auto and found this:

AIRTEX / WELLS Part # 5S2406 {#12569241, 16009886, 16040609, 16254539, 5744466, 5745121, 5S1153, 5S2413, SU1285, SU129}
Category: Manifold Pressure (MAP) Sensor $52.79

STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS Part # AS4 {#12569241, 16006836, 16009886, 16038012, 16040609, 1620537, 16254539, 213183, 213184, 213361, 8160406090, 8161720000}
Category: Manifold Pressure (MAP) Sensor $53.79

ORIGINAL ENGINE MANAGEMENT Part # MS29 {#16006836, 16009886, 16040609, 1620537, 8160406090}
Category: Manifold Pressure (MAP) Sensor (Only 1 Remaining) $56.79

ACDELCO Part # 2131520 {#12569241, 16009886, 16040609, 213184}
Category: Manifold Pressure (MAP) Sensor

I believe these are the numbers you should be ordering.

[PECKHS]

but I checked in wikilec and this part was listed

also read from this thread viewtopic.php?f=29&t=12157&p=153999&hilit=MAP#p153999 and it seems to suggest that Delphi PS1007511B1 is also suitable???

if it's the wrong part i'll probably just bang my head on the wall ....

i went back to rockauto website and reconfirmed it is indeed listed under 1992 Isuzu Impulse RS 1.6L 1588cc L4 MFI Turbo .... i'm confused .... did rockauto made a mistake???

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php

[Brit-Car-Nut]

It would appear to be a mistake on Rock Auto's side. I found a Tomco listing of MAP sensors and the one you got was for regular PI but the turbo models got the other.

Sorry.

[GeoffSmith]

Looks like Rockauto have screwed up bigtime and I believe the Delphi MAP sensors you've bought are only 1 bar. Small consolation but at least you should be able to tell RockAuto that their catalogue is wrong and get a refund.

I've finally managed to get some compelling evidence for one correct part. STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS Part # AS4 from RockAuto is a 2 bar sensor and is the correct part for a turbo Elan as listed by the manufacturer:

Standard Motor Products - MAP sensors.gif

Note: AS5 is the 1 bar sensor which is probably correct for a NA Elan.

[PECKHS]

X 10 !!!!!!

arrgghhhhh ...........

it will be hard to get a refund from roackauto as i'll probably have to send the MAP back to them. however, the freight is as much as the price of the MAP, so i'll probably just request for some discounts from them instead ....

tks guys, so i will be ordering this STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS Part # AS4 from them then. I hope this time round it is the correct part ...

cheers

peck

P.S. can someone remove the delphi MAP from wiki???

[PECKHS]

finally gotten the chance to replace the MAP sensor with the Standard Motor part from Rockauto.
Did a ES log at cold start. The engine did not turn on the 1st twist of the key. It seems to turn once and then stopped, kinda like a flat battery. However, it starts without issue on the 2nd try.

Here's the ES from cold start. There seems to be 50 knocks, otherwise the rest of the readings seems fine. And yes, ES is now registering a 1 bar pressure!

03062011azip.zip

Off the engine and checked the TPS voltage. It is reading 4.04volts when the accelerator was fully depressed. On open throttle it registers 0.38volts. Is there point for concern?

Started the engine (this time it started on the 1st turn), and began logging. The car drives fine, except for the gear shift, which I felt was not precise enough. And the long throw is really a big let down (time to consider Dave's short shift, and maybe Bob's steel gear cable???).
As the traffic was quite heavy, only managed to WOT at the about 500ms timing(on the ES attached). And another time at about 700ms. According to the ES log, the boost was a little above 0.6bar both times. However, the Power registered was only barely above 80hp at both intervals??
So, there was boost, but no power. Engine speed was about 4500rpm at the 500ms interval. So all seems fine, but why the low power?
Also, the coolant temperature was extremely low (outside temperature should be about 30deg celsius i reckon), dropping to below 80deg. The low temperature was registered also around the 500ms-800ms interval.
Does a low temp affects the power output when all other readings are normal?
Oh, and there was 2 knocks registered. Couldn't see any fault registered.
Appreciate if someone can have a look and I am eager to change to the Kilimanjaro chip i have.
Thanks.

03062011bzip.zip

[saska]

Off the engine and checked the TPS voltage. It is reading 4.04volts when the accelerator was fully depressed. On open throttle it registers 0.38volts. Is there point for concern?

This is pretty good. It also shows 100% and 0% as appropriate. For reference my SE (9930) outputs 0.36v at 0 throttle

As the traffic was quite heavy, only managed to WOT at the about 500ms timing(on the ES attached). And another time at about 700ms. According to the ES log, the boost was a little above 0.6bar both times. However, the Power registered was only barely above 80hp at both intervals??
So, there was boost, but no power. Engine speed was about 4500rpm at the 500ms interval. So all seems fine, but why the low power?

The power is a calculated value and you seldom see power values of over 120hp on standard cars in Elanscan unless someone is accelerating downhill. The SE does 115 @ 6000Rpm in third on the flat and I'm pretty sure it is healthy. On your logged run you didn't get over 4500RPM so think the 80Hp is probably fine.

Also, the coolant temperature was extremely low (outside temperature should be about 30deg celsius i reckon), dropping to below 80deg. The low temperature was registered also around the 500ms-800ms interval.
Does a low temp affects the power output when all other readings are normal?

Mine rises from cold to round about 80C and stays there unless stuck in traffic so yours was getting hotter than that for most of the run except where you had speed up when it dropped back to 80C. It rose from 29C evenly to 80C on the first scan.

Oh, and there was 2 knocks registered. Couldn't see any fault registered.

These were on startup so I wouldn't worry about them.
Fit the Kili chip and do another run.
1. Switch on the ignition but don't start the car.
2. Start logging
3. Press the accelerator to the floor and back up all the way (For TPS readings)
4. Start the car and let it warm up but don't go anywhere until the Coolant Temp shows 80C
5. Take it for a run. Try to find some places where you can run second and third up to around 6000RPM at full throttle -- preferably on the flat.
6. Do some 40-70MPH third gear runs at full throttle again on the flat.
7. Stop the car but don't switch the ignition off for about a minute. This will tell you where the idle, IAC, spark advance, etc. settle when hot/warm
8. Stop logging and save the file.
Think you'll find the Kili brings in the boost a bit earlier than the std Map so pay attention when it gets over 3500RPM and really pay attention when it goes over 5000RPM.

[tigerdog]

Off the engine and checked the TPS voltage. It is reading 4.04volts when the accelerator was fully depressed. On open throttle it registers 0.38volts. Is there point for concern?

Elanscan makes it super easy to check the TPS. Just turn the key on without starting the car, then start Elanscan/ start talking. It will display the actual number from 0 to 100% Throttle. Work the throttle right at the throttle body, by hand. If it shows 0 when closed and 100% when full open, the TPS is correct. If not, undo the lockbolt and twist until it reads 0 at rest, then verify 100% at WOT. Tighten the lockbolt. From inside the car, floor the throttle and make sure you again see 100%. If not, adjust the throttle cable (unscrew the barrel adjuster a bit) until you see 100% when the accelerator is fully depressed.

[PECKHS]

finally put in the kilimanjaro chip on saturday
As was suggested, checked the TPS voltage and throttle before i started the car. Good readins, at 4.04v fully depressed and 0.38v when open. Throttle reading 100% when wide open.
First turn couldn't start the engine. same as previous, one crank and then dead. 2nd turn and the engines fire to life. Any idea what may be the reason?

Had a run when the engine was warmed up. The drive felt good, and the engine was definitely more responsive (or was it just my imagination). Tried to run the car up to speed, but traffic was mildly heavy and only managed short burst.

Looking at the scan later, everything looks good, although at about little after 1000s, there seems to be a burst of power above 200hp, which I found abnormal. Coud it have been an error by ES or ECU?

No fault code was registered.

Can someone take a look at the other values, eg air/fuel ratio, IAC position etc and give some comments?

Another thing, after leaving the car for about half an hour, the engine would not start. Lots of cranking but did not fire. Succeeded only on the 3rd turn. Any ideas what may have caused this?

Thanks.

[Brit-Car-Nut]

Find someone with the proper equipment to check the fuel pressure. It is easy to test with the right tools but also easy to set the car and yourself on fire if you don't do it right.

Check the pressure with the engine running and check it with the engine off.

Wait about 30 minutes and DO NOT turn the key to start the pump. Check it again - with the engine and pump off.

If the fuel pressure regulator is malfunctioning, it might let the fuel pressure drop to a low pressure that doesn't recover with the short burst of the fuel pump when you first turn the key.

The fuel pump gets an initial burst of power to "prime" the fuel rail and then it doesn't run again until the engine fires and keeps running.

Low fuel pressure is also a possible reason so many don't want to restart after getting warm to hot and then shutting down for a short while but then do start if left for a longer time.

It was not uncommon for cars in the early 90s to have the pressure regulator stay open and allow the fuel rail to drain completely back to the tank when the pump was off even though it regulated the pressure correctly when the pump was running.

Just be CAREFUL.

[PECKHS]

come to think of it, my previous saab 900s also had a similar problem ...
will need to get that sorted soon