How do identify the fault

[scotlan]

Monday 12 a.m. ZIP.zip

Thanks for your patience and persistence!
OK I ran the engine for 5 minutes
No fans
Temp gauge barely moved into the first quadrant. That is the needle was at a quarter of the first quarter.

Looking at the readings they also look strange to me

[Simon_P]

Hi The file is ok but it doesn't contain any of the data points requested so still can't tell you anything. You need to run it until the thermostat opens at 1/4 on the gauge and the fans come on at 3/4 on the gauge.

[Fredjohn]

I agree.

Unfortunately the scan I attached above doesn't start from cold, so doesn't show the full picture. The coolant temp should rise steadily to about 85-88c then dip as the thermostat opens, then rise again to about 110c when the fans open, then fall and then rise as the fans switch on and off.

Also mine shows 0 fault codes, yours has a low CTS fault, as indicated by the "CTS low on" in the left hand window. I am assuming off=no fault, on=fault.

It can take 5-10 mins or more before the fans come on. The gauge is not that accurate, so about 1/4 (first mark)= normal running temp, and about 3/4 fans come on. The readings from the scan are far more accurate in absolute terms.

[scotlan]

Monday 1pmZIP.zip

1 pm bulletin !

Ran the engine on tickover from cold and it took about 15 minutes for the fans to come on, the gauge went to half, fans cut out at 16 minutes and cut in again at 18 minutes. Gauge went to a fraction over half
All along the engine ran evenly with no management lights

[Simon_P]

Can't open the file - Invalid floating point again.

[Rambo]

Monday 12 a.m. ZIP.zip

Thanks for your patience and persistence!
OK I ran the engine for 5 minutes
No fans
Temp gauge barely moved into the first quadrant. That is the needle was at a quarter of the first quarter.

Looking at the readings they also look strange to me

From experience of 3 M100's I would say that you need to let the engine run for at least 10-15 mins from cold before the temp gauge goes up to the ~2/3 mark and both fans kick in. Possibly even 20 mins if you are just idling the engine and still have the OEM thermostat in place

Sorry, I can't help with Elanscan. Never used it and never needed it (yet) although I do have the GS cable

[scotlan]

That's a real bummer after 18 minutes of running!!
I have the result page, is it possible to tell me what to look for (and how to find it), maybe I can send you the info you are looking for...

[Simon_P]

Please try saving it again if you can view it there must be a problem with the way you are saving it. Once uploaded you should be able to download and open it also.

What to look for - see Fredjohn's and my post just above.

[scotlan]

Monday 1 pm No 2 Zip.zip

2nd atempt

[Fredjohn]

Sorry can't open this version either (1pm no 2)

[scotlan]

Thanks for trying, everyone. I am going to change the CTS as soon as I can get one.
Then I will road test car, run Elanscan again and then post the Zip file
I hope this will resolve my issues but time will tell.
Again THANKS

[Brit-Car-Nut]

Sorry can't open this version either (1pm no 2)

Just rename the file: remove the ending .zip and fix the (space)zip to be.zip

The file should be named: Monday 1 pm no2.zip

[Simon_P]

The fault may be an old one before you buy anything disconnect the battery for 10 seconds to clear any faults, then scan again and check.

try sending the file by email

[scotlan]

The file should be named: Monday 1 pm no2.zip

Monday 1 pm No 2.zip

by Simon_P » Mon 21.10.2019, 18:10

The fault may be an old one before you buy anything disconnect the battery for 10 seconds to clear any faults, then scan again and check.

try sending the file by email

Will try that tomorrow. thanks

[Rambo]

But before you disconnect the battery, try the simple paperclip test. If its a faulty CTS it should show 14 or 15

Then disconnect the battery to lose any stored fault codes as Simon suggests and then do your Elanscan

PS just curious to see what fault codes are stored before you start from scratch

[scotlan]

Hi Rambo
I did the paperclip test and got 12.
i.e. 1 flash gap 2 flashes.
Still there is something causing a flutter at low speed cruising and intermittent tickover at 2,000 rpm.

[Rambo]

You should get this 12 code 3 times in succession then any fault codes thereafter ie 15 low coolant temp, 41 CAS/HES sensor etc..) if any faults have been stored

If there are no fault codes stored you will keep on getting the 12 code flashing

[scotlan]

You should get this 12 code 3 times in succession then any fault codes thereafter ie 15 low coolant temp, 41 CAS/HES sensor etc..) if any faults have been stored

If there are no fault codes stored you will keep on getting the 12 code flashing

Well, thanks for that important info Rambo. I did the paperclip test and when it repeated the 1 - 2 I thought it was no fault. With your clarification it came up with 1 - 5.

I read the notes on this and it says see CTS Write up. Do you know where I can find that?

[Simon_P]

CTS is the Coolant Temperature Sensor.

Coolant Temperature Sensor - see the wiki top left of the screen.

I read the notes on this and it says see CTS Write up. Do you know where I can find that?

[Simon_P]

But before you disconnect the battery, try the simple paperclip test. If its a faulty CTS it should show 14 or 15

Then disconnect the battery to lose any stored fault codes as Simon suggests and then do your Elanscan

PS just curious to see what fault codes are stored before you start from scratch

According to yesterdays elanscan that worked CTS Low =On But there isn't any data to support it hence the discussion, and the suggestion to clear it.