Door Lock Actuator

[Simon_P]

The Blue car makes a horrible noise in the drivers door when locking and the windows sort of go down and sometimes up of a fashion....door trim off !

I'm guessing that the actuator doesn't look like this!

DSC_0519.JPG

A quick search threw up John's post with part numbers here:
viewtopic.php?f=35&t=19607&p=287362&hilit=actuator#p287362

First of all where is/should the actuator be? And any advice on removing it and testing the circuit?

[Fredjohn]

Looks like a generic actuator available from ebay for about £5-6. Could be 2 or 5 wire.
If 2, just put a 12v feed to the leads and it should push or pull. Reverse connection for the opposite. Can do the same with 5 wire, but I'm not sure which 2 to use.
The ebay links you provided have disappeared, but the actuator is part of the lock. See page 10.17a item 70 of parts manual here

Hope this helps.

[dapinky]

I would think it will be a 5-wire one.... the 2 wire ones are a 'connect-to-pull' system, which returns to original position when current stops (ie, suitable for the boot lock, fuel flap release, or hood stowage cover release).

For a door lock it needs to go one way, stop, then go back again....so needs more connections!

(Whichever one it is, it shouldn't be there..... but that said, if it works, then it's better than the 'correct' part which doesn't).

[Simon_P]

Thanks guys _ I'm hoping to return it back to original so will remove the broken aftermarket one which fell into 2 halves. I will go and investigate now to see if the original and wiring are still in position. I've never had to look at elan locks before.

[Simon_P]

With both door trims off it i apparent that these were installed as part of an aftermarket alarm system.

I'm sure that I have read these answers somewhere but can't find them.
The S2 uses the alarm instead of the CDL module - ok - checked wiring diagram.
How can I test the original actuators? apply voltage to a plug somewhere? The original wiring looks to be intact so I guess that the wiring is at JB6 and JB2 but where can i find these?
I'll hazard a guess that the actuators work in the same way - so should be easy to plug the 2 wires from the alarm to the above terminals?

[GeoffSmith]

Even a gynaecologist would have problems probing JB2 & JB6. You're better off going for the door connectors B2 & B4.

[Simon_P]

Thanks for that Geoff - I found the plug and made the actuator work.

I now need to make the Cobra alarm work with the OE actuators. From what I gateher the S2 alarm superceded the CDL Module. Did they use it just for lock/unlock or did it link to the other sensors and provide the functionality?

Dave the extra actuator is has five wires but only uses two. The supply from the alarm is reversed for lock/unlock, the same as the OE actuator. It is on for about a second is that compatible with the OE actuator or will it fry?

[Saltire]

Simon you’re correct, the S2 Gemini Aquila OEM alarm replaced the CDL and managed the central locking. There were two wires (can’t remember the colours off the top of my head, but I can look them up tomorrow). There’s no separate locking control module on the S2, it’s all integrated into the alarm control unit.

If your Cobra is anything like the Toad I fitted, there are more than two wires available for central locking connections (to deal with different types of central locking). I can look up which ones I used tomorrow,and I’d expect the Cobra to be the same pair.

[GeoffSmith]

The S2 alarm sheet is on WikiLEC.

[Simon_P]

Hi Geoff,
Thanks, I've seen that hence my search for JB2 /6 .

The logic description that I've found says what the CDL does but not what the S" system doesn't do. Any ideas?

Im also trying to find out what pulse width is acceptable to the OE actuators.

Thanks,

Simon