by dapinky » Tue 04.04.2023, 09:30
2 things worth a mention - as far as Hazard lights go, the MOT tester will be the person who does care if they work or not! (and also that the light on the switch illuminates when they are on)....
On a more positive note, although the hazard switch itself may appear to be the faulty part (and it may well be) - the biggest failure rate I've known on these cars is not the actual switch, but the connection between switch and socket.
The socket is held in place by 2 very small plastic tabs which click into the fascia panel. Over time, the operation of the switch (pushing it in/out) can cause the socket to come lose and the switch not to seat correctly. The correct operation of indicators, hazards and warning lamp all rely on every one of the many pins on the back sitting right in the socket, and one that doesn't (or is a tad corroded) will mean one or more functions don't work.
Simply pushing the switch assembly in doesn't help as the socket moves back as you push the switch - you need to get your hand in behind it and hold the socket (or push it!) at the same time you push the switch..... it is really easy as long as your fingers are triple jointed and 12" long, otherwise it is a bit of a bugger!!!!!
You can get behind the switch through the radio hole, or maybe up and under from the passenger footwell (or any other method you think may work).
I would suggest that once you work out how to get to it, that you remove the switch, clean up all contacts, give it a squirt of contact cleaner, and then push it fully home into the socket - it could well solve all of your woes for no expense spent.
Dave
Just the one now, but this one's mine! - and it will be finished eventually..... - but also temporary custodian of a project until it is finished enough for Angie to drive it
...oh, and a 2006 Freelander destined for the jungles of The Gambia - 4500 miles across roads, desert and tracks - what could possibly go wrong?